All Activity

Hello, could you tell me what could be the problem with starting a cold engine? I have to put the bike on a stand and kick it as hard as I can about 20 times. After starting, the bike starts right after turning off the engine, but if it sits for 2 minutes, it is very difficult to start again, sometimes even impossible. The bike has a lot of mileage (about 1000 engine hours). After purchasing it from the previous owner, I replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, injector, hose clamps in the gas tank, ignition coil and condenser in an attempt to find the problem. After that, everything got better, but the problem remains. Direct fuel injection into the intake manifold helps; in this case, it starts every time. I read all the threads on the forum and came to the conclusion that the problem could be in the crankshaft seals or sensors. I have seen people installing small batteries in the filter block, but I'm not sure which wires to connect them to? To the capacitor or to the battery connector, which should be under the seat? I think this option should help, I'd be grateful for any help.

Ok guys, managed to find a Motoplat coil and the right kickstarter lever for this engine. Also got a tank with petcock, but they're both pretty much trash. I poured some pretty rich premix inside the spark plug hole and the engine came to life, with huuuuge surprise. Started but died after 1 second. The second time I started it, lasted maybe 2 seconds. In the meantime I tried to put the tank in place with a hose going to the carb, but ended up badly with my cursing and fuel everywhere. Today it started at first kick (!) and for maybe 8 seconds... I managed to twist the throttle a couple of times before the fuel into the bowl finished and it died... but it's aliiiive! As you can see the carb is the Amal from the Explorer engine... should I get something more modern and better for the Pioneer engine? I read it had a 32mm. The guy I got coil, kickstarter lever and tank from, kindly sent me for free a rear brake cable and a broken gear lever (I'll have to find a way to make it work).

Seen the top riders motorcycle get stolen at a 2-day national, had two nefarious individuals attend one of my events purely for the purpose of delaying and disrupting the event, now I have security at events to stop that nonsense.

Local events in my State in the US do not have pre-entry. Just roll up the day of 2 hours before start of event and sign up is open. You can sign up for AMA at the event, but honestly that is a P.I.T.A for everyone involved. Sign up for AMA on-line and either bring the new card to the event or some sort of electronic verification on your phone if the card has not arrived. Security at a local Trials event??? that's nuts. we could leave a $20 bill on the sign up table and people would think it was a collection to help somebody out and add to it. As far as I know we have only had 1 theft in MOTA in 25yrs. A set of handlebars was taken from a mobile dealer.

I've just had a stator for a Fantic rewound at West Country Windings and they seemed very efficient, not fitted it yet but my brother had the same done some years ago and its still working

Yeah, you guys are talking about two different types of events. Our local event does have pre entry, but you can sign up at the trials for the same costs. We have had portable toilets at local events for about 2 decades as the total people count is about a hundred. We are having a National next May. Already working on the sections. The Nationals thrive on having a real number of pre-entries, you can enter on site the day of the event, but costs a hundred dollars more! Security? You guys don`t live in the states. Even our Pastor at Church carries a gun under his Robe.

Under 50 riders and ease of access lol Canadian trials events rarely reach that number of riders, hard enduro no problem attracting 100 riders and 70% of those riders can't complete an event. Long distance travel is also a reality in Canada that most people living on an island can not relate to, nothing is easy access here other than wildlife. Yep living in the past you are, back in the days when you didn't even need security at an event, those days are done.

No I totally agree. My problem is it's more and more common for small club trials with expected entrants <50 now requiring pre entries. To me that goes against the ease of access trials is renowned for. Or maybe im living in the past

Maybe here https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/l/aftermarket-stators?srsltid=AfmBOooPHVWzz3Ug93MZ2_SBhLpL4CSpiGre4s0rPjAvfj3MdIMHyP4V

I prefer to host 2-day nationals if I go to the bother of doing a sanctioned event under CMA/FIM, nationals see better participation and support, yes to likely much different level to anything you ride, I own a 400 acre world class trials venue and have hosted events for 30 years 🤣 casual riders consider it too rough to ride a lot of it. If you don't want to pre-enter my events out of principal, believe I would prefer you stay home anyway, it would be much easier for everybody.

Portable toilets and parking spaces. We are obviously talking about completely different level of trials events. Haven't seen a portaloo at a club trial in my country in 30 years 🤣

Thank you!

https://www.trialsport.com.au/beta/Manuals/mikuni/ Pay attention, this problem went on for a long time. About 18 years.

Take it all off, it’s just stuff for homologation purposes. All the vapours and fluids end back in the air box, not what a competition engine needs. (The bike will empty the contents of the crankcase back into the air box when upside down) Remove at the air box and bung the hole. Firstly start with the petrol cap breather, cut it to about 6” and tuck it into where the throttle cable goes. The cylinder head breather can be shortened and tucked in down the left side of the radiator/frame legs as can the ht coil wiring. (Loosening the bolts and front engine mount helps get them in) The fuel pump breather down the right side of the radiator. The crankcase breather runs on to the sump guard at the rear. The electrics on top of the crank cases can be made much neater, do away with the bank angle sensor nearest the shock. Unplug it from the rubber boot and put a link wire connecting the outside terminals together ( i think there’s a yellow, white and green in there). The relay wiring comes down from under the headstock and sits under the exhaust. Now that you’ve got room under the tank from removing the junk, the relay wire can be shortened and attached under the headstock using the fluid catch can bracket. I have the Mitani condenser, it’s very small which allows it to go into the rubber boot. I’ve removed the bank angle sensor connector which makes more space in there. The only thing I have left is the rectifier and rear brake reservoir so I made my own carbon fibre bracket to hold them rather than the hefty steel one. Hope this helps

Don't know how to break this to you but not for profit clubs and the events are built by riders, regular ordinary people that do it for fun and not for profitable employment. It starts when you or you and maybe one or two friends decide you want to have a club and the first thing that person or group of people needs to do is fork out a healthy amount of personal money to establish a club and event sanction. Subsequently that person hopes that a sufficient number of participants show up and pay enough coin to re-cover the costs already incurred at the events that person or club builds. In defence of your opinion, only a rider that has organized a club and regularly hosted sanctioned events would know that somebody such as myself has already dropped coin to make the event happen. You are only willing to support the club and the event costs if it suits you 👎 Next issue is security and facilities where pre-registration makes it possible to predict how many portable toilets, parking spaces, campsites and additional support people the organizers require to make the event work for you all. You can't plan and build a successful event if you can't even know people will show.

Hello guys, I am looking for rear light for Apirlia txr 312 m and speedometer, If anyone have any of that please contact me on joky.kralj@gmail.com Thank u

Totally disagree with this. Club trials should not warrant pre entry, especially pre payment. Then clubs wonder why entries are down, some people aren't prepared to commit on a Monday whether they are free on Saturday, so just go practicing instead. Clubs should be making it easier for people to enter, not harder

Well I did an easy trial and I believe it was more controllable. That said when I get tired (easily appears to be my new reality) I get more sloppy. I might look into the kit but a few bills need to be sorted.

Search for somebody local to you that services alternators and starter motors, there should be loads of shops that can do it.

I seem to remember reading posts here about someone that could rewind a stator for better starting? Was that fella in the USA and if so what was his contact info? Thanks.

Thank you!!

My Montesa came with an addendum to the owners manual detailing how to prep the bike for competition, it was in the crate right from the manufacturer, so I would ask your dealer if they scooped it or if they can provide that information. ... as for is it OK to remove the fuel tank vapour pollution control measures, that is likely a personal choice, the engine won't notice any difference. I owned another 4RT that was stripped of parts almost beyond reason by a previous owner and it worked just fine.

Just bought 2021 4RT 260 which is somehow messy and I start servicing it and got shocked 🤣 Im used to simple 2 stroke, and I couldn't believe all the hoses and wires running under the tank! what a mess! On the wiring side, I want to leave the bare minimum. I dont need lights and horn. I just want kiill switch and what ever the engine need (ECU, Fuel pump, fan). Any advice here? On the hoses side, that double fuel tank vent left me confused. What the lower one is good for? Can I remove/block it or it will have some unwanted effects doing so? The head vent goes into big catch tank. Is it ok to remove it and just route the hose into the ground? Thanks for your help!

Hi Guys, thanks for the replies, yeah I am very much a casual rider who with my limited skill and age level only ride when I feel I can manage a whole trial, the goal is to enjoy the time and not get hurt, winning would be nice but you got to be realistic... I will look for some AMCA events near me and try my best...

Thks for the response, yes i usually run the carb fuel down after riding but my techno has sufffered from leaking fuel since I picked her up. Its hard to see wwhere the fuel is coming from but the back of the crank case behind the carb is usually where I can spot the problem. I thought it was the float sticking but I always have the issue and it might be persistent just disguised abit when the motor is running. Prob need to fit a catch tank on the overflow pipe and see if its fills up after starting. Lanyard sounds easy , thank you Here's a pic of the switch as per a ebay ad, they have the same issue as me , the thumb part of the switch is missing which is typical of 90's dirtbikes , i have a enduro bike ith the same problem and just taped it up to not loose any water in the switch . A way of using the switch would be better if anyone can think of one ?