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Hi everyone, this is my first post here. I just bought a 2008 rev3 250 and i absolutely love it... but the rear brake pedal is just too uncomfortable. it sits way too high and i have to keep my foot tilted upwards all the time and no amount of adjustment can bring the brake pedal at the same level as the foot peg without making it unusable due to it touching the frame. I would also argue that the rear brake is very weak even though the whole system is in good condition. Any amount of help is welcome!

🤔 By repackaging something simple and selling it like something special ? Yep, shop at your local farm supply where people buy oil by the pail and get the same stuff or better at a fraction of the cost, then you can retire the rich guy that lives in his own trials area 👍

You’re not gong to like my answer but here it is anyway. Yes, painting fiberglass requires a specialized bonding primer and high-quality exterior or marine-grade paint to prevent peeling and ensure proper adhesion. Because fiberglass is smooth and non-porous, standard paints and primers will not bond to it without the proper chemical or physical base. Use a two-part (2K) epoxy primer or a dedicated bonding primer obviously after sanding and cleaning. Use a marine-grade polyurethane or acrylic enamel paint.

poor people are starting to realise how rich people got rich , why sell a 100 bottles when you can sell just one and then take the rest of the day off. to cheat at golf.

Found 08C35-HTX-740 in stock and available from Acura dealers 👍 it's only $144.60 CDN 🤣 that's a lot for happy.

It's time to see what's going on this engine. Cameshaft and bearings perfect Cylinder rock solid! Perfect ! Piston very worn but nicely worn 😅 The rod looks very good. The crankshaft need new bearings New timing chain and new white guide needed. Good news. And because it's a 250 cc, parts are less expensive than 260 / 300 / 301 !

Hey, All! I'm slowly getting work done on my project TY250A. I got the swingarm "repaired", sandblasted, primered and shot some rattle can enamel on it today. The old "bumps" on the the swingarm that the snail chain adjusters push off of were really worn with grooves somehow. Maybe someone (previous owner) let the rear axle get loose? I say this because there is also damage to the dust collar on the drive side of the sprocket and the inside of the swingarm itself. I dunno how it could've happened, but it did. I ground off the old bumps, and drilled and tapped for 6mm allen headed bolts for the adjusters to work from: Now, I'm working on my fiberglass seat base. I made new brackets for the seat's rear mount before I found out that Feked sells them. Now, I'm sanding off the yellow flaking paint the PO put on, as well as some of the original yellow, down to the bare 'glass. My questions are: Does painting fiberglass actually require any "special" type of primer and paint? I'd really like to just put on some paint I can easily/inexpensively buy for now, and can use for future repairs. Something like a rattle can primer with rattle can hi-gloss enamel over that? I don't really want to shoot, say, colored gel coat on, or some of the more pricey marine products. Sorry for what's probably a stupid question. I suppose I need to say that I want this bike to be something I ride and crash, not a restoration showpiece. It's been 40+ years since I've done any bodywork involving fiberglass, and while I don't recall doing anything special while putting on and glassing in some fiberglass fender flares for my old Datsun 510, I would suppose there's been some improvements in chemicals for painting fiberglass by now........ Thanks for your help here, Jimmie

Hello, I do not think anyone can argue with your logic it is just a Trial bike thing , Certain brands of stuff are what make people happy in their world. The main question is why would a person need to spend 8000.00 when they could save themselves 7000.00. https://youtu.be/4TGavmuYCCQ?si=IxjTqoG2zf5EE Start it a 3m 46s for some trials action. There are many people in UK club trials who would struggle to do that on a current 2026 250cc bike..

Well I am finally done round 1. The Montesa is back together and running. I tore it down to the frame, painted and rebuilt it. New rear shocks, tires, seat and 1 new lower fork. It took me 1.5 weeks to get the forks off and now I can rebuild the front end in 30 minutes. Fun and a lot of learning. I still need HELP! Front forks are rebuilt but I have parts missing. 1 fork was seized - it was missing the lower fork piston bushing. I had to get one machined and then honed down to fit. It works amazing now BUT this fork is 1.5" shorter than the other. The shock I did not rebuild it missing something in the top half of the fork that stops the piston. Explanation - Front Fork - Top Nut - main spring, piston - So top half of fork when I look down I see a square stopper that stops the fork piston. On the shock i rebuilt when you look in you see a stopper or spacer in the tube. I did not want to try to push this part all the way up the fork tube in case it got stuck. So I assume I rode it this way in the 90s. BUT the forks are not balanced, so when you rebound only one fork would top out and the springs are not equal pressure. Will it damage the fork over time? I found the manual but the parts are not listed anywhere. Thanks Francis

That is absolutely gorgeous and it sounds amazing. Well done!

I can order ELF HTX 740 as a Honda original part or special order it from somewhere that won't ship it here anyway and would cost me about 70$ per litre 🤔 do you think SJ grade oil is worth 70$ per litre? You don't pay that for oil bottled in France on your side of the ocean but you still pay exorbitant prices for simple oil that only needs to last several hours before being replaced. Sorry but I pay 10$ per litre for oil that works just fine because it gets changed frequently which is why I don't have clutch problems.

I run 3 psi in the rear. No problems yet but I'm not a top level rider - nothing too agressive.

Sorry to do this but ELF HTX 740 is very well known in the trials community as a for use in wet clutch trials motors , regardless of what it states on the labels .More specifically for use in Honda trials clutches and has also been used by some riders in other brands of trials bikes for many many years.

I've done exactly the same, what a difference .

OK GUYS, JUST TAKEN THE ORIGINAL DUNLOP REAR TYRE OFF MY 2023 MONTESA 4RT. ( yes not had a lot of use as i also do pre 65 and have had an injury ) IVE REPLACED IT WITH A NEW DUNLOP GEOMAX TL01. IVE HEARD THAT THE SIDE WALLS ARE VERY STIFF AND HAVING JUST DROPPED IT OFF ITS STAND ONTO THE FLOOR IVE GOT TO AGREE. I KNOW THEY'RE STANDARD KIT ON THE NEW BETA RANGE. JUST WONDERING WHAT PRESSURES PEOPLE ARE USING , DOES THE WALL GET SOFTER OR IS THAT THE DESIGN OF THE TYRE. JUST CURIOUS, I RAN THE OTHER DUNLOP ON 4PSI. THANKS EVERYONE.

It's only 6 times the cost of what I've used for 20 years. I recommend frequent fresh oil changes with oil that states it is good for wet clutch applications.

I hear you lemur but that’s what’s recommended in the manual, I’ve used it in mine for 5 years without a problem except for the hole in my pocket...... others may join in soon recommending oils like ATF

One season used TRRS ONE RR 80cc y2024 Located in Latvia Price - 2k eur (lots of upgrades, comes with additional parts etc.) For more info - PM

What Elf oil are you recommending for his wet clutch application? " ELF HTX 740 is a monograde ultra-fluid transmission lubricant specially developed for dry clutch gearboxes coupled to 2-stroke engines." " ELF HTX 740 must not be used in an immersed clutch."

Replace them with the apico dimpled plates & Elf oil works a treat on my 4RT 260 😀

I guess it could also be air in the hydraulic clutch cylinder / hose. Bleeding that first might be all it needs?

Hi I have no experience with a Sincro, but looking at the diagrams on the Beta website it looks to be very similar to the enduro clutch as below. Although it has pressure adjustment via preload on the disc spring, it still has friction / steel plates in a basket like the EVO. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=369zIhnzzZo However I have owned a few EVO's and the clutch on those was often grabby. Many people modified the EVO clutch plates as video below. This is a pain of a job, but does help. Maybe worth trying as it is presumably the friction plate engagement that is the issue with your bike - unless there is a faulty / out of tolerance part(s) fitted to your bike. Putoline GP10 oil with frequent changes also helps as other oils I tried seemed to induce clutch drag. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZeOQWhkUCk

4RT has separate transmission oil from the engine oil which is great because you can put engine oil in your engine and transmission oil in the transmission and wet clutch👍 change the oil type and replace it frequently to keep water out of the oil because water makes the clutch plates swell. Occasionally remove and resurface the friction plates to inspect, dry out and remove high spots or irregularities in the friction plate material. Dump the old oil into a clear glass container to inspect for water or particulates. Inexpensive ISO 46 hydraulic excavator transmission oil purchased in quantity is what I use and replace frequently, because at half the cost of specialty motorcycle transmission oils it gets done twice as often and imo works way better. You should experience very little clutch drag even in sub zero weather using ISO 46 Another possible suspect is air bubbles or water in the clutch hydraulics.