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I'd be checking the fuel pressure and if your bike is fitted with a capacitor in addition to the battery, she won't start without fuel pressure and it can not achieve fuel pressure unless the electrics are fully functional to support it. Checking the battery voltage at the fuel pump and not at the battery terminals is a good start because you may have voltage drop from bad connections before it reaches the pump or with poor grounding. Hope this helps some 👍

My 2022 Vertigo Nitro JB replica with battery, is extremely difficult to start. As the temperature drops more kicks are required to start it. In the garage at 10c it took 70 kicks to start it. Battery is good 13.3 volts, throttle body just cleaned and mass air flow cleaned, new plug. Took so long I thought it was broken. Suggestions please.

I did get one and install. It does feel more lively and seems to absorb more for a more cushioned ride.

I don't know for sure but I have heard the welding on the seams of the aluminum tanks is poor.

All credit to the Hell team in Australia. Link to the library of GasGas information and you can poke around and find it. https://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/gas-gas-parts-and-service-manuals or this may Link to the 1999 parts book https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B0Mfile5AhnmY3ZVUGs5Z1BMTTA?resourcekey=0-Mu7q122qaYNUoKRk-3aVVw

Thank Arnoux, is that parts manual stored in a way you could send it to me. Or tell me where I can find it. C3……. great help .

Thanks for the advice. I will drain for storage. And draining between trials events probably is a good habit in season. I'd consider replacing with aluminium tank if not so pricey! Cheers.

While it's probably OK to leave fuel in it, it would be kinder to the tank liner to store the tank dry over winter. Nowadays after a ride, I drain and dry out my lined fibreglass tanks if it will be more than a few weeks until the next ride. My oldest epoxy tank liner is about 20 years old now. For the first 15 years I left that one with fuel in between rides and it gradually changed from honey colour to dark brown over the 15 years. After I noticed this happening I started draining it between rides and now at 20 years it is still working fine. It may still have been OK if I had continued leaving fuel in it, but the colour change made me wonder if it was being gradually damaged structurally. For info, Caswell liner is epoxy resin

I would not leave fuel with ethanol in any motorcycle over the winter regardless of the tank material. Stabilizers may be helpful in preserving fuel but I would not count on them. Even though your tank is coated I think it is still a bit risky to ever use ethanol containing fuel in a fiberglass tank.

So We were at a National in late 2004 in the states. A friend had a 300 pro. Just after getting his score card and starting his bike he broke that case right before our eyes. Luckily Dale M. the USA gas gas importer was in line with us. Dale ran back to his trailer, pulled out the case and a gasket and handed me the parts. I had the bike back together in 40 minutes. We all finnished on time and had a great weekend. We sure will miss Dale! Thanks Arnoux for hanging out posting and helping everyone!

That’s a fantastic heads up thanks so much for that mate

Hi Pat, a tip from doing a tonne of these over the years, you will need to replace the internal bearing that is in the crankcase that supports the kickstart shaft. The GasGas part number is MT2802260067. When this gets worn over time it allows the shaft to move at the furthurest part inboard, and this then cracks the case. If you dont change that it will happen again. There is a huge amount of stress on that bearing and they need replacing over time. It has a "blind" bottom , so it is like a cup. It can be knocked out easily with a drift from the left side of the bike - yes the LEFT side! If you look from the left side just below and behind the carby area on the crankcase right side you will see it's "bum". Once you remove the kickstart shaft you can knock it out to the right with a drift. You MUST do this when replacing the case. Jim Snell's old kickstart video is a help with the technique to get the shaft out: Jim's TXT Pro kickstart video

Let me know what you find, Pat. I’d be really interested. I hope it’s not too serious and good luck!

I have a Caswell-lined fibreglass tank and wondering if I should, or need to, remove fuel mix while storing over the winter (Canadian) and if so, should I replace it with something or okay to leave empty. For my street bikes I just top up tank and add a bit of stabilizer. I asked my neighbour who owns a boat and he says it should be fine if it's treated/lined as it protects from ethanol. Thanks in advance.

Zeez that post is old. Can't believe it has stuck around for all these years since I wrote the article. The fix works Cello.

Hi Ron I’d a feeling I may be at fault but there’s no harm in asking the question. I’ll start ripping into it in the next few days and hopefully all isn’t too bad. Thanks for the reply mate

Hey Pat, I’m no expert but I think the crack in the casing is your problem. It was probably kicked very hard in its life and cracked. Now, it’s my guess, that the kickstarter flexes the shaft just enough so that things are not engaging properly. The kickstart pinion gear and shaft may even be damaged due to the flex. My suggestion would be to open everything up, examine the shaft and gear. I’d also get a new clutch casing or potentially weld the existing crack. Good luck!

Hey Chappo, If you look in the original parts manual from GasGas it states C3 for the bearing.

Evening folks Ive a small issue with my bike , it can be tricky to start, it feels like the kickstart is only engaging at the bottom of the stroke of it. I know this model can have a knack to start but any feedback or help would be great. Also the clutch casing has a crack in it (please see attached photo) where kickstart runs through which I’d assume would not help. What could cause this to crack ? Again any feedback and help would be greatly appreciated Cheers Paddy

Hi folks, I’m just rebuilding the above engine. I’m after a set of 6206 main bearings for her. Im trying to establish if they are C3 or standard bearings that are required. I’d have thought C3 , but just making sure as it’s for a friend. Thanks everyone.

A new Michelin Light arrived this afternoon, too late for this year but I'll be ready for the spring

Hi has anyone got a rubber seat for a Fantic 301 1986 please??

Don't know how to "repair" the gear lever. I could drill a hole thru and use a passing bolt, maybe, covered with a piece of hose for the time being? Or I could use two metal clamps to keep an L shaped piece attached on it?

Thanks... makes perfectly sense. I don't think I'll be on the hunt for a Pioneer exhaust, it would probably make more power up top but I plan to use it for "semi-trial" stuff at low speed, so it's probably better to keep the Explorer exhaust with the smaller carb. I guess the cylinders are also different on the inside (bigger intake/exhaust ports)? I never worked on Amal carbs, so don't have any jet for it... hopefully the stock setting will work with the actual setup.

If you are using the Explorer exhaust system, there is no advantage in using anything bigger than the 27mm AMAL. The Pioneer uses a bigger carby because it sucks a lot of air when it is on the pipe. The Explorer exhaust will mean that the Pioneer motor will suck about the same amount of air as an Explorer motor at full power.