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It's only 6 times the cost of what I've used for 20 years. I recommend frequent fresh oil changes with oil that states it is good for wet clutch applications.

I hear you lemur but that’s what’s recommended in the manual, I’ve used it in mine for 5 years without a problem except for the hole in my pocket...... others may join in soon recommending oils like ATF

One season used TRRS ONE RR 80cc y2024 Located in Latvia Price - 2k eur (lots of upgrades, comes with additional parts etc.) For more info - PM

What Elf oil are you recommending for his wet clutch application? " ELF HTX 740 is a monograde ultra-fluid transmission lubricant specially developed for dry clutch gearboxes coupled to 2-stroke engines." " ELF HTX 740 must not be used in an immersed clutch."

Replace them with the apico dimpled plates & Elf oil works a treat on my 4RT 260 😀

I guess it could also be air in the hydraulic clutch cylinder / hose. Bleeding that first might be all it needs?

Hi I have no experience with a Sincro, but looking at the diagrams on the Beta website it looks to be very similar to the enduro clutch as below. Although it has pressure adjustment via preload on the disc spring, it still has friction / steel plates in a basket like the EVO. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=369zIhnzzZo However I have owned a few EVO's and the clutch on those was often grabby. Many people modified the EVO clutch plates as video below. This is a pain of a job, but does help. Maybe worth trying as it is presumably the friction plate engagement that is the issue with your bike - unless there is a faulty / out of tolerance part(s) fitted to your bike. Putoline GP10 oil with frequent changes also helps as other oils I tried seemed to induce clutch drag. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZeOQWhkUCk

4RT has separate transmission oil from the engine oil which is great because you can put engine oil in your engine and transmission oil in the transmission and wet clutch👍 change the oil type and replace it frequently to keep water out of the oil because water makes the clutch plates swell. Occasionally remove and resurface the friction plates to inspect, dry out and remove high spots or irregularities in the friction plate material. Dump the old oil into a clear glass container to inspect for water or particulates. Inexpensive ISO 46 hydraulic excavator transmission oil purchased in quantity is what I use and replace frequently, because at half the cost of specialty motorcycle transmission oils it gets done twice as often and imo works way better. You should experience very little clutch drag even in sub zero weather using ISO 46 Another possible suspect is air bubbles or water in the clutch hydraulics.

Can anybody tell how to stop my 4rt 260 clutch dragging

Has anybody found a cure for the Sincro light-switch clutch yet? I've tried several things to fix it: 1. Changing the pre- installed settings 2. Changing the oil 3. Slipping the clutch in high gear to wear it down Despite this, it still snatches in slow turns, so I can't keep a line in a tight corner. Basically, I spent £7,000 on a bike which is not as good as my old one. Absolutely gutted.

Ergal axle 150grs less than steel one.

It sounds to me you have a very firm grasp of what’s going on and how to repair and set the ignition on this bike. you’ve covered the basics well. New condenser is a great start. I’d be suspect that you needed to replace the ignition coil as the original femsa coils rarely if ever require replacement. However it’s a base covered so good on you for replacing. The timing issue as you mentioned…. The stator plate was fully retarded ( this would mean all the way counter clockwise). We see this sometimes with the points that are available on the market today. The rubbing blocks on the points are of inferior material and wear exceedingly quickly. Often times so much so that the points won’t open enough or at all. So look at your points carefully to see that the block has ample material on it. Make sure the points themselves are clean and free of any oil or dust or debris. Use a fine file or sandpaper to clean. And remember to remove any sanding debris. You’ve lapped the flywheel taper. When fitting the flywheel have the points cam lobe aways from the points as it will allow the flywheel to slip more easily into place. The end of the crankshaft should just protrude a little further or flush with the flywheel itself. Once in place set your point gap first. 16 thou is spec. Once set then adjust the timing by turning the stator plate advanced or retarded to get the correct timing. You’ll need a dial gauge in the bore for this step. Try not to make adjustments to the timing with the point gap. Verify too that your plug cap is in good working order. And obviously use a new plug. NGK BP5ES is the correct plug. However non resistor plugs are becoming harder and harder to find so you may have to settle for a BPR5ES. The points systems usually give good blueish yellow spark. This is plenty. If you’ve got spark move on to fuel. A clogged pilot jet or clogged enrichner tube on the bings and Amals can give problems with cold starts. And finally compression. Primary and secondary compression is important. Primary being engine case compression secondary being top end piston compression. These bike are notorious for needing regular crank seal replacement. Step by step keep up the process and I’m sure you’ll suss out the issue Steve

https://motorcyclesports.net/montesa-honda-resumes-production-just-days-after-major-factory-fire/

Initial assessments following the devastating fire that struck the Santa Perpètua de Mogoda facility last Friday reveal a far more serious situation than initially feared. The fire completely destroyed the company's logistics center, wiping out nearly 11,000 stored motorcycles and almost the entire stock of spare parts destined for the sales network. The damage will have significant consequences for the company's operations in the coming year. https://www.facebook.com/thehellteampage/photos/for-anyone-who-hasnt-seen-the-spanish-news-this-week-there-has-been-a-major-fire/1479928174151275/

Honda on fire Last week a serious fire broke out (it seems it started from the photovoltaic panels) at the Santa Perpètua de Mogoda facility near Barcelona: no injuries (around 150 employees evacuated without consequences), but there was considerable material damage and a massive rescue effort was required to bring the flames under control. A huge column of smoke was visible from kilometers away, as many as 28 fire engines arrived on the scene, and the situation further deteriorated when part of the building’s structure collapsed, forcing firefighters to change strategy. With entry into the complex becoming too dangerous, efforts had to be focused from the outside to contain the fire and prevent it from spreading to nearby commercial activities. The facility included Montesa Honda, the prestigious Honda Safety Institute, a recognized center for rider training and road safety, as well as various technical and logistical infrastructures tied to Honda’s sporting side, especially MotoGP team equipment, but no comments have been released on that to date. https://www.corsedimoto.com/en/stories/factory-up-in-smoke-results-in-free-fall-red-alert-for-honda-across-motogp-sbk-and-mxgp

I bought a 199A. It would not start when I went to collect it but owner said he had had it started to check it was OK that morning. No spark, but when we removed the plug but it did look as if it had run. Got it home cleaned the points and checked gap whch as correct. There was now a spark but may be not as bright or as consistent as it should be. Still no start although I think it fired a few times. Tested the HT coil and secondary winding was open circuit so bought new coil from Inmotion. Slightly better spark but still no start. Had the condenser checked by an electrician. No Mf capacitance so ordered one from Inmotion which has just arrived. When removing the flywheel the nut was not very tight, only 30 to 40 ft lbs, it should be 75 ft lbs. However the flywheel was very difficult to pull off, I had to use an impact wrench on the puller bolt. When I got it off I found there were slivers of metal on the tapers and dents and areas galled out. The key and keyway are in good condition. Because of the lumps and dents the flywheel would not go back on properly, and could be rocked about. I removed most of the high spots with a die grinder and am now lapping the flywheel onto the taper, just about got it satisfactory. When the flywheel is fully seated how far should the threads on the crankshaft stick out beyond the flywheel? Obviously the flywheel not being seated as far back as it should be and possibly not concentric on the crankshaft, will have reduced the magnetic flux in the source coil so I am hoping properly seating flywheel along with new capacitor fixes the problem. Does anyone know what the resistance of the source coil should be and who can rewind them? (please dont suggest electronic ignition, I am wanting just to get the bike running and everything else checked before I spend a lot) The timing was 2.9 mm BTDC. However to achieve this the stator plate was in the fully retarded position, which seems unusal. I have had bultacos many years ago and think the stator was usually near middle position. Unfortunately I did not clock the flywheel before removing it and it may have been running out of round due to the shards of metal in the taper. If this was the case it would affect the timing. Where would anyone expect the stator position to be? Thanks Tony

Hi , my sons Oset 20 has Promax solve brakes and the rear brake lever (blade ) has snapped ! Has anyone changed the blade for a cheaper alternative ie Clarks blade £8 or can you only use the Promax £19 inc p&p , or any other brake blade . Thanks

I think just the set up of the bike back in the day of course it’s not like the modern nearly bantams but maybe a forerunner,I would just like to know who built it.

In your opinion which parts have "been done rather well"?

I need help with a project I have bought which I was going to use for spares but after giving it a look over I think it might have a bit of history to it.My thoughts are that it has been built rather well,its frame has been modified with twin rails under the motor (the frame number is d10***)and is clearly bantam and the rest of the bike has been built with a lot of thought,does this ring any bells with anybody.Thank you.