All Activity

Hi Feetupfun That's very observant ! I knew there was an issue as I couldn't fit the original speedo, and thought I had the front wheel in wrong way round, but the brake stay was in the wrong place 🤔 Now it makes sense that the forks are reversed. I did strip the forks down and fitted new chrome stanchions as they were quite pitted. I should have marked L & R ! Thanks for you reply

It's very nice to see an original Yam framed Majesty looking so beautiful. Something looked unusual and I've just worked out that it's that the fork legs and front wheel are fitted the opposite way to normal

This is an old photo of one of my TY250s. The lower cross tube on some models of the TY250 has a threaded hole, as this one has, which I think has a TY250B frame. People who have a TY250 without the threaded hole fit a threaded steel plug into the tube. Some are welded, some with an interference fit. The stand is not an issue on this bike. It is mounted to the right hand side of the swingarm and does not interfere with the footpeg. It sounds like your TY250 might be an A model with the stand mounted to the main frame under the left side footpeg. This is an old photo. It now has countersunk internal hex titanium screws instead of those external hex head screws.

yeah, obviously there is Frys Bottom. Thats about it. I've set up a petition, on change dot org regarding the planning application If you'd like to sign that. https://chng.it/cswzDC92xb

Wd 40 will totally destroy your pads.

I'm not sure a response to an old post will show up. I like this simple style of mount and want to do something similar. What did you do to accept the lower bolt in the frame? The tube is quite thin. Did you weld in a threaded plug? Was it tricky to avoid interference with the kickstand?

I have just purchased the forks with the triple clamps + front axle + stem bearings, but not the front wheel. ¿How did you fit yours? I wish it’s only about fitting different wheel bearings and/or wheel spacers…

If you're buying the complete front end then it's basically down to the fitment of the triple clamps into the 315 frame. You might want to ask what the measurement are between the clamps and be prepared to be on the hunt for different head bearings. I wonder if the 4rt clamps are a direct swap.

Part of the reason I am so particular over cleaning pads and discs is because I use WD40. I don't think the WD40 is the cause of the problem as I think you are implying.

I found a 2013 jotagas 40mm marzocchi’s, so I’m going to purchase them. Does the front wheel direct-fit with these forks? (Same as yours)

I agree with you that brake model is a pos. Had one just like it seize up on only the outside pistons and it was braking only on one pad. Worked again after I used the hydraulics to break the stuck pistons free (with a bang) so assumed it was corroding on the inside and lost faith in it, bought a Beta brake to replace it and then ran into some issues with the size of the hydraulic fittings. I've never experienced this problem with the brake models fitted with a bolt or a spring pin to hold the pads in place. Speculating it was related to covid era production shortages just like the 'pink' rims and anodized parts that came on my 2021 TRS 300 e-start that were suppose to be 'red' but material shortages caused production problems with the anodizing process and were allowed to pass quality control due to covid times, that's my take on it.

Did all that. I took pads out pumped pistons out a little cleaned them real good I cleaned were the pads fit in the groves. There is extra slack in the adjuster. I have a friend with a 22 oneR 250 and it came with the caliper with a pin just like new Gasgas I think that is nicer caliper I don't like the one I have with ears on the pad .

No, TRS still use this Caliper on all the ONE R models. The symptoms sound like you have no freeplay at the master cylinder. Check the actuating pin on the inside of the lever. It MUST have some freeplay and not be applying ANY PRESSURE on the Master Cylinder piston when the lever is in it's relaxed position. Use the jam nut (10mm wrench) to loosen the pin, wind it out until you get some freeplay (and hence allow the opening of the port hole between the pressure line and the reservoir), and then lock it again with the jam nut. Check you now have that little tiny bit of freeplay as you pull the lever in, and it should self bleed, and now allow the caliper pucks to open properly when you release the brakes. If it is still binding check your brake pad wear. As the pads get right down the piston pucks in the caliper can get a bit cocked and may bind in the bore. If this is the case take the brake caliper off the fork leg (leave the hose connected), remove the old pads. - The pads just need to be slid sideways into the centre and they drop out, no need to even touch the spring at the top. Then clean around toe pucks, push them back home, and install new pads. Reinstall caliper, a few pumps of the lever to get the pads against the discs, and you should be good to go.

I think this is the only year with this caliper . It has this weird spring thing and no pin holding pads in The master has a bunch of play in the lever It's not pumped up . and is tight and hard to move the wheel I pry the pads back and the get tight again. I think I will replace it with a normal caliper

Sorry but I realise this is an old post...but I have an old bike ! I have one of the original Majesty's that John Shirt built at his workshop just outside Buxton UK. It is bored out to 320cc and John built it to order. I was last ridden (by me) in about 1986 and has languished in my shed since then. Last year I decided to restore it and bring it back to it's former self. I did carry on riding Trials later than 1986 but on a modern Montesa mono shock. I think it's unlikely that I will ride the Majesty again in a trial, although I have seen and visited the vintage trials in France, and Mike Andrews has competed in them. ......but for now it's gone back under a cover in the shed !

Yes, on both questions.

Txt racing 2021 I have a similar problem ,I have fit new soaked plates and got a Measure of 9.98,but when back together the fingers are loose ,is this right ? I seem to get alot of clutch rattle when not engaged ,is this why ?

I heard KTM uses the same sprag bearing setup. I knew the sprag was going to be a high maintenance item from the start but this is over the top, when you get a new bike from the factory and it already sounds like a bag full of hammers that's a big problem.

This is why other trials brands are not jumping on the "add on" E start wagon. KTM went through this with E start on Enduro bikes. The add on starters were problematic, and they fixed this by designing engines with E start from the drawing board.

All of my electric start problems repeatedly turn out to be related to the sprag bearing spring, I have both a 2021 and a 2023, replaced the battery on the 2021 and likely did not need to, the 2021 is on its second rebuilt sprag bearing and my 2023 sprag has failed in less than 37 hours of operation and I have been using the kickstart most of the time. That light weight sprag bearing spring is going to be a huge problem if we can't buy them cheap and 6 at a time.

Mr. Bigfoot, Can you post or send that technical bulletin that shows the simple test for the rectifier/regulator? I sold my 2022 TRS to a friend recently and 6 riding hours after he bought the bike from me, his e-start has stopped working. He has replaced the button, but that didn't solve the problem. The bike has roughly 45 hours on it total, so it's hard to think that a component has failed, but still worth checking. Thanks

Thank lemur , great idea

Brilliant fun bike, use it as it is and enjoy. Plenty of easy and fairly inexpensive mods to make engine better. Trials specific cdi, high lift camshaft.

My understanding is, when you manually open the tap it's just that, open. Once started you move it to the solenoid operating position, the reason is if it's permanently open and you drop the bike or lie it down then fuel can leak into cylinder past rings and contaminate the oil. So solenoid switches it off. Never completely understood as it restarts from that position You could leave it on or even do away with it altogether but it means taking that risk. They aren't cheap!

oh and this is me! ....just enjoying it for what it is...