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I have a little lathe. So I machined steel parts in titanium or 7075 alloy. For the rest, I order in china. It's easy to save weight on older bikes because some solutions came during the 90's. The Climber is a heavy bike and it's nice to upgrade it. I try to respect the decade. I don't want to equiped a 90's bike with 2000 2010 or 2020 parts.

Any input on the upcoming Beta 2027 sincro Trials bike

It’s amazing to me that you find all those titanium parts for those older bikes. There’s only one place that I’ve found titanium for my 2033 Gasgas and it’s only for bling than anything else and is very limited. I can’t afford it anyway so no big deal.

Just bought a 2000 gasser 200txt, i have noticed that the carb isn’t sat correctly in the rubber port. When it’s pushed in and located correctly the choke lever is then fouled by the engine mounting bracket. Has anyone had this problem and solved it? As the bike is 26 years old I’m expecting something to have been fitted incorrectly or maybe something missing. Have added some pictures to help. Many thanks, Ad

7075 alloy make a big difference.

Prediction entries are now open. If you haven't joined already, check out the rules at https://mototrial.co.uk/predictions/rules.php and then join here https://mototrial.co.uk/registration/join.php. All the usual suspects will be there: Toni Bou, Jaime Busto, Gabriel Marcelli, Harry Hemingway. They will be joined by Matteo Grattarola, Arnau Farré, Miquel Gelabert and Sondre Haga.

Had my first ride on an Ibex today & really impressed with how it performed, I rate it as better the the Dunlop Geomax

Titanium rear axle (110gr less) 2x titanium bolt -25gr

So no SSDT next year?

Titanium swingarm axle and fresh sachs alloy shock.

Brand new 25 301rr, sounds like a cracking find to me 👍

Have a micrometer available when you set the valve clearances, use the micrometer to test feel your feeler gauge first, that gives you a more accurate setting when you adjust the valves. The valve adjuster screw has a square head that is the same size as a red (#2) Robertson screw head, you can improvise a valve adjusting tool using a short stick of wood and a Robertson screw.

In 2024 there was a recall issued by Honda in regard to faulty pump impellers. You should not be too worried about recalls, those are issues that have been identified and in theory resolved. The biggest ownership problem with the fuel pump system is that the high pressure filter canister is not a replacement item and only offered as an entire fuel pump assembly. Don't drop the bike in a lake or you will be looking at an expensive repair.

There was a problem with a manufacturing process with one of the materials used in fuel pumps, the issue wasn’t exclusive to 4rt’s but appeared on many Honda products. Hopefully the affected parts have been removed form production by now.

Agree with Lemur, most certainly the valve clearances. Get a workshop manual for the bike. There is a step by step walkthrough for everything. I’m sure there is also some advice on here. Not a hard job, but quite fiddly

From a dealer? Maybe ask if he stocks a replacement fuel pump and the cost, if he says no then it should give you a hint how often they need replacing.

I am picking up a brand new, 2025 301rr next week. It will be my first. I seem to be unaware of what the specifics are related to a fuel pump issue, other than there seems to be one. Is there anything I should ask from the dealer either before I buy or when I pick up about this? What should I look for in terms of this problem and what has been the resolution?

There are lots of alternative components or circuits that can do what needs to be done to regulate the power output from your alternator such that it does not over-power your lights, all they are doing is to limit the voltage spikes produced by the alternator to around 7 volts. Robust is the function of the components ability to dissipate excess voltage in the form of heat, so whatever you use it should have a way to sink the heat.

If you are talking to me, I've been searching for a bit crisper response plus a cure to the erratic starting issues. At the moment I am running a 42 pilot, stock needle and clip position and a 122 main. And as it has always been, regardless of jetting, sometimes it fires right up, then its 6-8 kicks. Hot or cold. Actually seems to start OK more often when cold

Sorry for the late repsonse, haven't been on. When I was in the process of buying the bike, and was shopping for the best deeal, I talked with Mike, the owner of Trials Superstore. His shop is one of if not THE largest Gas Gas trials dealer in the states. He does not sell any other types of Gas Gas bikes. Anyway, in one of our talks he mentioned that the 23 - 24 model year bikes were blowing up trannys. I think he mentioned this happened more with expert/pro riders but warned me none the less. Said he had ZERO issues with the 25s. So I looked in the online parts fiches, found the parts that were different and ordered accordingly. I believe one of the shafts, main shaft I believe, plus a couple of gears. I haven't had any issues so far other the all of the metal shavings but I wanted to get the parts while still available, in case there is any issue in the near future

I have ordered some parts from Hughes Bultaco and they may have one, But I also found that a 6A10 silicone diode will also work and are robust. When I get done I hope make a colored wiring diagram that shows these items better. Thanks Hal #116 000706

Thanks for the reply. I had looked up the diode and couldn't find any. After searching for "lucas power diode 49934A" it comes back as obsolete, but did give me some modern equivalents. I had been looking up (lucase diode 49934A) putting the word (power) gave the information about modern power diodes Thanks for the feedback. I really appreciate it Thanks Hal PS. I'd still like to see a picture of the wiring in a Lucas headlight if ANYONE HAS ONE.

Use an oscilloscope to test the power being supplied to it, that will give you a hint as to the components purpose. If it is a diode that's a bonus, easy to replace on spec. That would make it a power diode as it is designed to sink heat and the main purpose would be to roughly regulate voltage output to match the lighting requirements. If a VOM test fails in both directions the component must be cooked.

Hi. So did you go for the 260 or 301?