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Crows foot spanner with a torque wrench

Last bump of the thread. There are 10 places left this morning - fortnight to go. Weather looks OK. Still some slots for the Factor-e if you want to try one. (There are two in our club now). Our practice day should be fun as well.

Thanks for that, Apart from easier starting, it should take some load of the already fragile kick start gears.

This is the type of decompressor that I was talking about https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/396896802024?_skw=chainsaw+decompressor&itmmeta=01K0ZH12R481E2RVX4FJPX53WW&hash=item5c68e494e8:g:r64AAeSwADxoggVl&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fLhVZ9pCnvxIEPuRqCU3B2ZOAfu9fy6%2F6WgF9a6nbXFSfm57hpL5lTOdssTnqBqUtKOtg33LWZbPrilBksRs681ExCGS7r9NYQKVprn4dpc3rDt2MLuIUhoplS8KeKoG1yKz1BTpjNWGXROZIiqD5Aw1sgDp8jlUjyMeJgiuDjXyxLCuEhPWJtHchCLtFwW2HfMHYcbdS6eai7IxU1bEM1KfPbA90mS5LOqQrBb4pYLuX0yd5%2FwRmkeWs0IOCsxf4KL6zTUS7U64O4ELHLH%2BZrDtsaoBvJlGKgMuy9BB48rQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_ashPGHZg

Yes! Use quality tools.

Yeah have since ordered that little brass pressure pawl also a new spider as the centre looks worn in motion trial's recommended a 20 mm spider (base to tip of the leg) And to grind down to 15 mm instead of the standard 13 mm many thanks for your help

I can rock the bike And click up thro the gears And back down I'm pretty sure Now that it's a very tired clutch as plates look IN pretty poor condition 😔

1/2 inch AF open ended will be a good tight fit on 13 mm nut?

Hey everyone, just a question about can I fit a decompression kit to my 1985 Montesa 304. Cheers from Australia.

Thanks everyone... Honda GB have no records, nor do Honda (Japan), according to Honda GB, but HOC UK have dated it as a 1979 MY, using factory records, which DVLA won't accept... as it's to correct an incorrectly registered vehicle! I'll keep trying! Does anyone know which UK Honda dealership is the largest - maybe they'll have access to old production records?

Use of the clutch is not *required* to change gear. You can test the gearbox separately from the clutch. If you have no experience doing this, here is a method: Put the bike on a stand. Although not mandatory, it's probably best to remove the chain. (But you will have the extra inertia of the rear wheel to overcome.) Remove the spark plug and flywheel cover. Turn the engine by hand using the flywheel. Attempt to change gears while rotating the flywheel back and forth. It will only take a small fraction of a complete engine revolution to select the next gear. If you have not removed the chain, you may find it easier to rotate the rear wheel instead.

This is obviously only my opinion - But several things, the RS200 was never sold as a UK model, so it would be extremely unlikely that you would ever find one correctly registered from new in the UK - So a later age plate doesn't look out of place. It was also built by what became HRC, so not a standard production line bike, but more a small volume hand built machine.. So I'd be surprised if anywhere outside of Honda in Japan would have any records at all. And at that time many new bikes were not registered when new, often by second or third owners. You have a registration document for your bike which by law gives it an official identity in the UK, so it can be used on the road legally and the Police via the DVLA database would be able to return it to you in the hopefully unlikely event that it was stolen and recovered. I think its best just to stick with what you already have, maybe it is not technically 100% correct, but does it really matter ? I have a 1986 RTL250s which I am going to register, just to give it an identity in case of theft. I've yet to find any info on them relating to production numbers etc, and I've read all I can find on the net including the Honda trials history website. I also have the Four Stroke Finale book, but again no detail... The main thing is that we CAN register old bikes, where my brother lives in Portugal it is impossible to register old bikes...

Hi just replied to your previous post with a bit of general information before I saw this one. The parts book is what I had originally, don’t think there’s much else out there. You can see the chain tubes on there and the tank/seat bulges, but that book shows a full width hub which I think were the earlier models. The clutch mechanism was a bit suspect in that the little pawl 2863.106 was made of poor material and its square hole wasn’t a very accurate fit on the bottom of the operating lever shaft 3863.081. Both the square on the shaft and the hole seemed to wear easily along with the finger end of the pawl. A tiny amount of wear in any of that means pretty rubbish clutch operation.

Oh and it would have had the traditional montesa feature of plastic tubes for the chain to run in which floated on a bracket mounted on the rear spindle. It would be nice to see more photos, they were a decent bike really, underrated in my opinion, apart from the brakes which like most bikes at the time just stopped being brakes as soon as you got them wet !

Hi, I’m not certain but looks like you might possibly have a 200 ‘C’ model from 83. I had one back in the day. I think a couple of noticeable features of that model were half width front hub which I can’t see on your photo, and they also had a small flair/bulge at the rear bottom edge of the tank unit which smoothed over the top rear shock mounts but that might have been cut off if they’d got damaged or cracked over the years. I can see you’re missing the air box & chain tensioner and also the rubber straps which pull the rear of the tank down to the hooks on the frame. I believe ‘in motion’ are a good source of parts in uk.

Thank you so much for the PDF 👍

I can feel the mechanism trying to activate the clutch 👍 I actually can't start And change up to a high gear thank you for your help

A flare nut spanner might be the answer. It is a type of open ended spanner with a bigger purchase. An example is here: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/spanners/2358029?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-bing-_-PLA_UK_EN_Catch+All-_-Mechanical,+Fluid+Power+%26+Tools-_-2358029&matchtype=e&pla-4574999185500285&cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=554644865&cq_term=&cq_plac=&cq_net=s&cq_plt=gp&msclkid=095f50e9815a1b0f8679389616c21e79&gclid=095f50e9815a1b0f8679389616c21e79&gclsrc=3p.ds&gad_source=7

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0380

Cota 200.pdf

When you pull the clutch lever in I assume you can feel the mechanism trying to activate the clutch? Also I assume you have tried riding it in a high gear with the clutch pulled in while accelerating?

On my gasgas enduro bike I went to the shop and bought a cheap ring spanner and ground the outside down until it fit. Scientific torque spec I used was almost as tight as I could do it by hand and then give the the spanner a couple of light hits with a hammer.

Hi guys. Got 2018 txt 250 and tried to replacing the top end but I really can’t find way to how to tighten front cylinder base nuts. Plain ring wrench doesn't fit at all neither most slim wrench(signet 30493) I got. Was tried to tighten with open end wrench but seems like nuts are gonna stripping. Any idea how to tighten these nuts with torque spec??

It definitely should do much better than that. Could someone have geared it way up?

Anyone still alive on here that has any information on the clutch assembly? *******o clutch will not disingage ( stuck in gear) all gears selectable... Have soaked the basket in petrol and doesn't seem to be sticking.. really need an exploded diagram as I feel a crucial part maybe missing.. engine was rebuilt by someone else.. even the tiniest information would be great 👍