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... I mean the bike should have come with PGM-Fi instead of a being saddled with a CV carburetor, then it would be at least as good as a Montesa in performance and reliability.

Hello Mine has the same issue, it seems typical for the Montesa Honda Reason to try dimpled plates but I have raised a question about it because I doubt the quality of what I have received

I had one a few years ago, probably about a 2014. I liked it. It had the typical Beta issues of clutch cold stick (the salesman nearly put it through the showroom window when I went to view it! 🤣) and an air filter that can hoover up mud and leaves from 100 yards away. I don't know what Lemur means about the carb rotting. It is a swine to remove and fit though, but it does go when you've found the knack. The 4T sounds lovely. I reckon it's just as good a bike as a Montesa and much cheaper secondhand.

It's hard to read your scales. What are you saying? Tubed is heavier than tubeless? Or the other way around?

I bought a set of dimple plates for my 2026 Montesa 260 4RT I expected to see smooth plates with dimples in it but to my surprise every dimple is surrounded by a tiny edge which lays above the surface of the plate. It seems to me as if it has been forgotten to grind them flush. I can feel them real good so I doubt if this will work. I am affraid it will destroy the clutch in no time. Anyone with experience can give me advise in this? Shouldn't I grind this flush and smooth?

Hello all, I'm from the Netherlands I am riding a trial bike for a year and a half now and I love it. Bought a new Montesa 260 4RT 2 months ago.

Nice bike but the carburetor rots.

I'm looking at a 2019 EVO 300 4t, any comments on the machine Guy

Hi folks, Bought a Honda TLR200 Japanese import project bike a while ago, cleaned up the rear drum fitted new shoes but the lever arm on the brake plate travels a long way befor the brake engages, the cam is near 90deg..so the feel is horrible and it does not like to return easily at the angle. the drum inside is within spec. Maybe shoes with much thicker brake material would help? The wheel rims are totally corroded, where are you folks buying rims? are there other rimes I could fit from other bikes? taa

What year of TY is it? Asking to find out if it has a magneto ignition like my old 1974 model has. I don't know if newer models have cdi/breakerless ignitions or not. Did it just suddenly stop on you, or just won't start after sitting for awhile? Having said that, it's never a bad idea to check and clean all the ground contacts (to earth). If it has a points ignition, take the ignition side cover off and have a look under there. Sometimes condensation can be the problem there. Be sure wiring looks good, points are opening and closing, and etc. Lemur's suggestion to check the plug cap is a good one. You can do a lot of electrical checks with a cheap DVOM (Digital Volt/Ohm Meter) on that cap, the coil, and wiring and such. (Added after re-reading your post, Andy-Walt): I think Lemur is on to something. If you can get spark without a plug cap, a new spark plug cap may be in your future. Personally, for my bikes, I've never worried about having a resistor style cap or even resistor spark plugs in my bikes with a CDI ignition. And spark plug caps are cheap to buy and try........ Jimmie

Hello, Today I had a test ride on a Montesa 4Ride 2017. Overall, I love the bike. The only thing I could not get used to was the clutch. Compared to the KTM Freeride 250 or Ossa Explorer, where the clutch is buttery-smooth and I can modulate it very smoothly, the 4Ride clutch seemed rather on/off, which made it difficult to get moving while balancing. Also, the clutch is much heavier to pull compared to KTM/Ossa, even though it's hydraulic. Is it normal on Montesas? Or was it just the test bike having issues? Thanks!

Did you test or replace the 5k resistor spark plug cap?

I'm a bit surprised Beta kept the six fiber plate clutch pack. The one advantage of the diaphragm spring is its non-linear transfer curve. If the actuator is in the correct part of the curve the static holding pressure on the pack can be greater than the pressure needed to pull the clutch in. That's why the other bikes with diaphragm clutches use three fiber plates. And three plates means a lot less hydraulic drag. But Beta does like to milk parts inventory so maybe a three plate design will come in a few years.

Hi all bit off a problem here,,,,,, i have a ty 250. now we have power to the end off the HT lead but no spark. this is confusing the hell out of me. Has anybody out there any idea what it may be please

Installed a 9v as suggested in the thread. Bike started on the third kick cold after sitting for several weeks!

To make a complete set of wheels. Same base as the rear, Akront rim on a lightweight AJP hub with 36 spokes. After cleaning the hub, a pair of new bearings. The spokes and nipples are new (A joy to assemble!) And finally, a lightweight rotor.

Lol yeah had to drop the swing arm bout out and leave the lower bolt in so it came towards. Didn't have a lath just a mirror and 400 wet n dry and figure of 8 trees up the head. It was a weird warp as it was domed so the edges were high. Back together now but snaped the front lower ending mount. I do t think the 50nm torque is correct

This thread died a couple of years ago, but I'm starting to suspect that my starting issues are related to the OHTOKC CDI. The wiring diagram that was provided with the unit didn't match all of the wire colors on the unit. What did you find out? I'd also love to see the detail of the cold joints. Thanks!

SSDMC Trial 111026.pdf

Correctly position the disc in the brake caliper using a suitable spacer. Comparative measurement of the rim's position relative to the original wheel. (I shifted it all the way to the left to achieve the 60mm dimension.) The spacer on the sprocket side still needs to be made to match the original wheel's dimensions. All that remains is to adjust the spoke tension and mount a tire.

You are comparing Bias ply tires to Radial ply tires, competition rear trials tires are all radials. At one time they did manufacture radial trials tires in both tube and tubeless type (Pirelli did) , not sure that is still the case. ... Historically tubeless tires were an extremely tight fit to bead on a rim that was not designed for tube tires. Not all rims have a safety bead.

That's a yes, it's even the same part #.

Hey guys, do ye know wat side stands will fit perfect on a 4rt. Does thee 315 fit...thanks

Man, what a difference this new (correct tube-type) rear tire makes. I can't conclusively say how it works in the wet, and I've only been able to ride on my small property which is mostly dry with grass. I have cones set up for figure 8 practice, and 2 trees on a hill for cambered figure 8 practice. It's a bit easier for these drills, and much easier to come to a stop and balance. Dead engine balance practice on the floor of my barn is much easier. I still have a few more "issues" to fix with the bike before I can take it to a local Trial, or even a play/practice ride. The old Dunlop I replaced was the "Trials Universal" model. I think Dunlop makes better trials tires than that model, but don't know if they still make tube-type? Anyway, it was SO STIFF, even with 5 lbs. of pressure, it didn't seem to flex much at all. Getting it off the rim seemed much harder than getting the IRC on. With the same 5 lbs. of pressure in the IRC, the IRC's sidewalls flex and spread out a good bit more. Jimmie

A Fantic 200 trials bike (with the FM-type engine / rear-kick engine) requires 500 cc (0.5 liters) of oil for the combined gearbox and wet clutch. (Note: Older Minarelli-based Fantic engines from the TX series use up to 1.35 liters, which often causes confusion online, but the Fantic 200 FM-series takes 500 cc).