All Activity

Not an ossa expert but from a practical point of view I always find it easier to keep gloss black barrels clean than matt ones. The latter kind of get stained with mud

An update: I took all of the right rife off again and reassembled. I took off 3 washers, but can only get 2 washers back on. I have no idea what washer is what PN, but no matter how I ordered things, I couldn't get a 3 washers back on the shaft for the snap ring to fit. If I left off the thinnest one (1 mm thick), I could get it to assemble. So that's where I am going forward. Still hopping someone might have this side apart and might help identify what washer is what PN. As I moved on to attach the clutch side cover, I found that the kick starter was binding up when I fully tightened all the screws, especially those near this shaft. The seal was binding. I took the cover back off looking for clues as to why. I was guessing the cover might have a slight warpage, so I took some marker to the edge and moved it on a flat piece of metal. This showed a slight warp, so I taped down sandpaper to the metal and sanded to make it even. It took a lot of sanding, but eventually got this even. I then found this had NO EFFECT. I've tried tightening things in different sequences, but nothing changes. Anyone with any experience having this happen? I've had this cover off multiple times prior without incident, what changed. When the cover screws are fully tightened, the starter shaft is binding so bad that it is very difficult to kick through.

Thanks Konrad, I ended up removing cap and extending the fork as it just did not seem right to be do different in length. Fitted to the bike and felt fine on ride today. 👍

Unlikely the lubricant is the source of your clutch slip problems, you should have been making measurements of the plates and whole friction plate pack once assembled as well as the spring lengths. Obtaining a service manual is the best place to start if you don't already have one.

AI bent Toni’s forks.

I replaced the friction plates on my KT250, reassembled. I have freeplay at the pushrod, but after the engine warms up the clutch slips in higher gears and there isn’t enough “pull” at the lever to disengage the clutch. I did use a semisynthetic motor oil. Would ATF be a better option?

Viva Montesa 👍 Competition gearing preference is close ratio gearbox like an MX bike where enduro and dual sport typically used wide ratio gearbox. CR vs WR and once you ride both you will quickly develop a preference.

Hello, Are there companies making a racing wire loom? I know future used to make a very minimalistic wire loom for 4rt's but they are no longer doing that ? What can be taken off the bike ? i have seen some monts where a lot of those rubber tubes and catch tank and other stuff have been taken off so you get some space to work on the engine . I have seen smaller HT coils and smaller condensors beeing used to

oil gets to the filter so that is no problem. I have been told by a mate who had 2 '4 rt's his first one was very quit and the second one was noisy from the start. Enine got checked over and there was no issue and his bike ran perfect for over 5 years. Maybe some engines are just a bit more noisy ?

i have the reiger now for a month or 8 and i must say it transformed the bike. Back hops a lot easier and grip has improved too, bike still is very stable but it feels like its a lot lighter. weight difference is 800g between shocks.

is someone builde a racing wire loom? i tought future did that long ago but they are not there anymore ?

Welcome. Fire away with the questions mate, I'm sure you will get some help.

He looks like Toni Bou. But if it was he'd just leap the bike up a tree and wait.

Should the head and barrel be black and if so gloss or matt?

Just been given an Ossa 250 MAR to do some jobs on for a pal of mine. Looking forward to this project and am sure will have a ton of question so will apologise in advance for being a pest 🤣

Fully extended. The air trapped inside acts as a spring. Although the pressure would probably eventually equalize itself either way. Longer travel forks often have bleed-screws to release excess air pressure when the forks are fully extended.

I grew up around Yellowstone, Cody, Wy. actually, and know about having the crap scared out of me too by bears.

I would worry about any 2 stroke trials bike long term doing any sort of enduro. I dont particularly like 4rts, but you will at least know the gearbox and engine will stand the abuse

Hi all, Just stripped my forks down on a Montesa 4rt and replaced lower and upper bushes along with new seals and oil. My question is to do with the right fork leg: Do I fit fork cap with fork compressed or extended? Im thinking compressed as that’s when you measure the oil height and it will work better with controlling the spring rebound. I can’t see this info in the manual. Pic of both legs ready to fit with difference in length.

Thanks, Konrad. ACU currently aren't keen on electric Enduro or MX bikes- and of course it's the range issue. I want to be able to do a lap (with a seat), come in, refuel, go again.

Thank you for the input. A Beta Alp (or Freeride, or equivalent) is no good to me as I can't use it as a trials bike. I'd keep my Enduro bike, as I do actually do the odd motocross race on it, too, and today was riding quite happily at a motocross practice track. Green laning doesn't appeal to me, I'm looking for a trials bike that I can use at for trials... ..and then put a bigger tank and seat on to do Enduro/hare & hounds practice. I know it's a knife to a gun fight, but at least it does one thing well.

This is a topic near and dear to me. I keep spreadsheets with gear ratios for a variety of bikes. Modern trials bikes will all have the same problem, a wide gap between the "section" ratios and the "loop" ratios. The most even spacing I've measured among trials bikes was my old TXT321. Never had that gearbox apart, but counted motor revs per wheel rev as: 39.25, 33.75, 26.50, 20.75, 13.25, 9.00. Typically, a 6-speed box will offer a slight improvement over your Sherco's 5-speed. FWIW, I've discovered that single-speed electric trials bikes work really well as a technical trail bike.

I have a TRS but have never been more than about 20mph on it. Have you thought about a Beta Alp? You can do long distance trials and green lanes and so on. I keep looking for one but they are hard to find and the new ones are "rally" type to cash in on the adventure bike fad. I have a CRF250L but it would be useless for trials. Great fun though.

Hi all, for context/back story I have a 300 Sherco trials bike and 300 Sherco 4-stroke enduro bike- and struggle to find time to use either! My trials riding is Novice level and living on the London/Essex border, my 'enduro' riding is the odd enduro practice day or Hare & Hounds practice day. Generally tighter stuff, and again I'm Novice level. I can't justify having both bikes, so am considering a trials bike with long-ride kit. A Honda 4-Ride is the logical option but I'm a little wary, so that leaves TRS, Beta, or Sherco. My Sherco has a biiiiiiig jump between 3rd and 4th, which isn't ideal. How do the TRS and Beta compare?

4t impeller is different than the 2t