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Hi all new to forum & looking for guidance on install of stainless front/down pipe ( unsure if I can mention manufacturer on here)? for 78 Yamaha TY250 T/S. Website I was looking at mentions a flange & using bolts instead of studs? Any help appreciated, many thanks.

Hi, you are correct re gear selection. Vast majority of sections are ridden in same gear. If you're ever going to fluff a gear change you can guarantee it will be mid section. It can be needed eg drop a gear after hill climb for remainder but rarely and more likely at higher level. Rear brake is used a lot in trials to control speed and smooth things out. It's a technique that needs practice Good starting point for bars is to look at the bike from the side, follow the line of the forks and position them so the grips would be on that line, levers usually around 30° experts often have them flatter for techniques when on back wheel but that's beyond me!!

Hello again , just need some basic questions answered for trials as I am aware of the answers for general dirt bikes 1/, I assume you select correct gear prior to taking of and rarely change while on the move 2/ while going slow in turns which brake is used or both and what proportion 3/ what angle should the bars be on , at the moment it's vertical Thanks that's it for now

The number is from the frame. The bike is identical to other TY’s I’ve seen except for the fenders. Must be a unicorn!

Thanks Faussy, much appreciated.

https://www.yamahaty.com/english/serieen.html

Hi, Yes it is possible to Road Register a Bultaco Sherpa on the Road. I have just done one of mine.

Maybe it's a trailbike of the era with a TY250 motor. Is that number you posted the motor ID number or the frame ID number?

If I remember correctly, Yamaha made a version of the TY 434 to be use on farm i.e. more trail oriented. Does it have the foward footrest ? Guy

I have the 250 version and i got to say that bike is very clean for its age, you can tell it hasnt done much. Normally id say £1000-1500 for that age of bike, but thats a particularly clean version , asking more would be justified

Fish Glue would still work far better, a tube needs some form of rim lock. ... but lemur, why use fish glue and not something else? <- because you can reactivate it any time by adding water 🤓

Yeah I’m in US haven’t seen another Ty with chrome fenders they’re definitely stock

How long was it in the ocean?

Thanks all for the input - got a few options to try. Also this is the other rim - I assume it needs new rim tape, I’ve heard they are a pain to get right. You can also see corrosion - If it’s too far gone I could use this as a tubed option?

Enjoy!!!

Thanks for all the info guys, there was quite an unanimous opinion towards the Beta. in the end i went to see both of them today, didn’t get to ride any of them though. Both sellers seemed genuine, the trs was in a used but good condition, would have bought it if it wasn’t for the Beta, which is practically new. In addition, it is road legal with a number plate. Not that I plan to commute on it, but at least in the vicinity I can go around to find some spots to practice. Bit the bullet, managed to sort the financial side and called the owner, that I’ll take it. Will upload some pics once I get it. Thanks again for all the input!

I can’t speak for TRS but Beta is by far one of the most popular brands for a reason. In my experience they are low maintenance and one of the easier bikes to work on yourself. parts are usually easier to get hold of too. The factory bike doesn’t really offer any better performance over the evo, I find there is generally better quality bits on it such as brake & clutch levers, grips and front forks.

Just to add to what i said, If the tire has been sat for 15yrs it’s possible the seal on the tire isn’t quite tight enough. Was it a pain to get on rim?

Sometimes the tubeless rim tape on the inside of the wheel becomes scuffed and it causes it so slowly leak air. I’ve had similar issues over the years with mountain bikes as they are tubeless. Might be worth throughly inspecting the the tape. Also when you fit he wheel start the bike on a stand and let the back wheel spin a couple of times. I might be completely wrong, tires are funny things sometimes 🤣

Thanks konrad, The bike is a 2015. I picked it up second hand just before christmas and have ridden it a couple of times since then. I’ll have to look into the “miss drilled oil system” but as i said theres no alarming performance issues. Is it possible the oil is causing issues as i haven’t done a change yet and when i bought it they guy said it recently had one but you can’t ever be sure.

You're not going to believe this but Fish Glue I use it in winter tires that are full of screws and sidewall splits, it's water soluble and non toxic for easy cleanup. Not expensive and available from stores that cater to woodworking.

Okay, with that I am now guessing tire not rim/wheel. Maybe you could mark the tire and rim where the leak is currently and then rotate the tire leak point to a spot you know there is no leak on the wheel now and check again, if the leak follow the tire its not the rim/wheel, if not then its the wheel? Good luck.

I just had a thought actually - the tyre has barely been used but it’s been sitting on another rim with no air in it for 15 odd years, the Dunlop was even older. Wondering if actually the tyre is misshapen? The rim looked in good condition. Hoping I can use this tyre as they’ve gone up in price a lot since I last bought one 😂

With more than one tire and re-seating it I would sure think the rim has an issue. Last time I had that issue (08 Gas Gas) myself it was a combination of rim and tire, cleaned up the rim a bit better and change to a new tire and it stopped. Still had some rim-band issues so had to clean it up even more before it was really good but no rim leak after it was all sorted. Good luck.

Hi, My rear tyre leaks air from between the edge of the rim and the tyre itself (not spokes or valve have confirmed in a tub of water). Ive reseated it twice and tried two tyres (very old Dunlop) and an IRC. is there likely an issue with the rim or is there anything else I can try? It gets worse as the pressure goes down I’m this close to going tubed as I’ve got an old rear wheel that does leak through the spokes and this is stopping me riding. New rims are far too expensive vs the value of the bike. cheers