trialsrfun

Interestingly the Puma and Vasquez built bikes I have seen are usually fitted with the fork type and sometimes a strip from the head to the frame down tube, anyone know why this is. Surely the triangular three point fix one would be better.

Large rockery!

My OSSA TR77 Verde

My 199a has the fork type head steady fitted, if I replace this with a triangular 199b type steady would this fit the rear bracket the same as now with only a front tab needed as on Bondy's bike which is pictured above.

Great looking 199b you have there.

If you are going to the Telford or Stafford classic show ask on the Owd Codgers stand, someone there has them made as well as the triangular head steady.

The clutch info you require has been posted on another OSSA thread recently have a look, pleased you have it running.

Have fitted a D34 needle as suggested above, initial results are encouraging certainly seems smoother running, needs choke on for longer until engine warms up will be much wiser after the next trial. Thank you all for your helpful suggestions.

Make sure it starts easily and runs properly then offer all the advice and encouragement you can but keep things simple and easy, worked for us good luck have a great time together they grow up quickly.

Good original looking Bultaco. Many in the UK fit a Mikuni VM26 in place of the Bing, they work very well giving a smooth pick up but you will also need a different manifold connector tube. My bike has a VM26 fitted with the following settings, 27.5 pilot some fit 30 125 main or 130 needle jet 182 - 08 jet needle 5DP7 slide 2.0 main air jet 1.6 or 1.75 mine has a 1.6 though a friend runs with the 1.75

pmk in the Uk jubilee clip is a brand of hose clip

Telford search google for classic bike shows

Steve Sell at Marlimar OSSA supplies a shim pack of varying thicknesses to enable the crank to be centrally positioned and all the gear box workings have the right amount of end float. Steve also has the Barnett clutch plates, when my bike was finished the clutch would not free, the old plates seem to swell then will not function. The Barnett plates just work with less lever effort and a much better feel and action.

Thank you I have downloaded both the Amal and Dellorto tuning guides, am sending for a D34 needle, mine has the D40 as supplied. Other settings are 40 slide, 260BZ atomizer, 105 main, 35 pilot, 60 choke jet and 200 needle valve all as supplied with the carb.

Thank you goudrons for your really useful information, needs riding more to really find out if what has been done has made an improvement.

22mm Dellorto fitted to 199cc Triumph Tiger Cub For best performance how far out do you set the mixture screw, also needle position. Currently mine has mixture screw around 1 3/4 turns out, clip in top groove so needle lowest. Took care setting the float level as bike seemed rich, adjusted float to 25mm so fuel level slightly lower, Dellorto say 24 + / - 0.5mm. Carb is as supplied for a Triumph Cub. Slow running seems better now but will need a trial to know.

I too have a 22mm Dellorto on my Cub but I keep hearing how well they can run on a smaller choke size carb usually a china made mukuni copy, many othes who have tried them though revert back to Dellorto or Mikuni. Fitting an Amal carb appeals but only if there is a performance improvement to be had. Ironically the Cub as far as I know was never fitted with a concentric carb as production ceased around the time the concentric was launched.

Have a look at 7/8" trials bars on the renthal website, you will see the different bar shapes and dimensions there.

Any one tried an Amal Premier 20mm carb on a 199cc Triumph Tiger Cub, would welcome your feedback please.

Any one seen or got a WES alloy silencer yet?

Good to know that feeling crackered on a monday has positive health benefits.

The advisory team at two oil companies we deal with both said stay with the machinery manufacturers recommendation of a GL4 spec oil because there was a much lower level of EP additives present than in a GL5. The machines in question are both current, from different manufacturers, the handbook to one says use only a GL4 spec oil, the other use a GL4, in countries where GL4 is unavailable a GL5 may then be used. Both manufacturers prefer a GL4 oil because of the lower level of EP additive present.

ATF is a good choice for the primary drive but I would not use an EP oil in the gearbox. EP stands for extreme pressure additives these are intended for use in applications where all steel bearings are used and there are sliding gears as in a crown wheel and pinion. EP 90 is a GL5 category oil and should not be used where yellow metal bearings are fitted, these are the brass, bronze or copper bushes and shims that are often found in motorcycle gearboxes where a GL4 spec oil should be used. The EP additives stain these bushes which is surface degredation this is then eroded away on the bearing surfaces. I have done a lot of fact finding on this very subject for an industrial application, there is a lot of information about this on the web.

The top of the climb which was hard to see on the video looks even steeper than the main hill, very popular with the spectators too.

Pre unit and twin power certainly gave the best showing, trials at its best.