tltel

Hi you could try a new air filter and adjust carb. I assume you have had it running ok. TLTEL

Hi Not sure what bike you have, but most brake parts for trials are made by AJP or Brembo. You might be lucky enough to find one that matches yours from another bike, I think most are mounted by the same two small bolts. I fitted a new one to a 1994 gg Which was for a later model but had to alter push rod length to make it work properly. You will more than likely have to buy new as they are prone to wear from dirt getting inside and scoring the bore so a used one is probably false economy. (new one was about

Welcome And nice Vid, TLTEL

Hi you could try bypassing the theromstat with a piece of wire and starting the bike. Fan should run constant. you will at least know if the fan is working from the generator out put. TLTEL

Hi wayne I have a 1996 350 and the kick starter just misses the foot peg, but your foot will stop on the peg when you kick the bike over. When I got my bike last year I had to buy a new kick start as the original had snapped. I had it welded but it only lasted two trials. Apparently this is a comon problem with the 350 as there is so much presure on the lever. (it is identical to the one on my sons 125 and you could start that with your slippers on, not recomended on the 350) A new one will set you back about

Hi Jason Still sounds like the points area is where you will find the priblem. The wire that runs into the points through the rubber grommet could be at fault, if its an original wire, change it as they become brittle. When you screw the points cover on it could be shorting out. Try startimg it without the cover on and see if its any different. good luck TLTEL

Hi Jason I have the same bike and in the past have had similar problems. I cant remember if there is an earth for the coil but if there is, check and clean this first. It is more than likely to be the points that are causing the problem, I ve never had a problem with generators or coils. Check that the points are clean and definately closing and opening, turn over by hand. Check for a frayed wire on points conection a single strand of wire touching the engine will stop it sparking.( I have had this happen and its not obvious at first glance) If that is all ok could be condenser but you will usually get a lot of arcing at the points. Finally check for up and down movement on the cam shaft, if its got movement it will alter ponts gap when it is spinnig. Hope this helps. TLTEL

Hi It looks bent both ends, if you are using the bike off road do as the other guy said, Fit lever straight on to gear shaft and get it up and away from you boots. TLTEL

Hi You said that the plug was dry after a lot of kicking, sounds like you are not getting any fuel in. have you checked compression or leaking gaskets, it could even be crank seals. Have you looked at the reeds(assuming they have reeds). To me it doesnt sound like elctrical. TLTEL

Try <mention of this company is not permitted on Trials Central> <mention of this company is not permitted on Trials Central. Please delete this post>, you can phone them they have helped me with parts including new plastic for my sons 94,125 they do have a website but not everything is listed. Also I have used trialsandtribulations they have a good website. TLTEL

Hi fastducs, I have tried exactly what you said, but its hard to hold the forks upside down as the front wheel keeps turning. (joking) TLTEL

Hi My TLR 200 is very easy to kick over in fact its more of a push than a kick, sounds like something is wrong with the decompresor. Just a hint , If you do kick it too hard you can bend the flimsy kick start stop thats bolted to the frame by the kick start,I have had to straighten mine a few times, TLTEL

Hi if you have the air box with the large side fitting , you can still get these from ebay I think Taiwan. I know it sounds a bit dodgy but Ihave bought them for both of my TLs and they are fine, they are listed as CB carb rubbers but fit ok and are very flexible, I have also bought brand new petcocks and carbs and they work fine and are cheap even when you add the postage on. Hope this is of some use. TLTEL

HI I hate to say this but it sounds like your forks might be bent. Have you had the front whel out? If they are not bent much you might be able to turn them slightly in the clamps to make them run smooth, Try turning them with the wheel out that should show you if they are bent or not. (if the gap beween the forks stays the same they are not bent) TLTEL

River deep, mountain high. Bike and Tina Tuner You aint nothing but a Honda, Elvis Its a gas gas gas . The Rolling Stones TLTEL

HI The way I bleed my back brakes is to use syringe with a small piece of pipe and fit this onto the master cylinder inlet pipe ( remove pipe from reservoir first). open bleed nipple and push new fluid through the system. shut nipple and pump brake pedal a few times still with syringe attached, then remove syringe refit reservoir pipe, top up reservoir,(dont over fill it because fluid needs some space for when it expands) hopefully brakes will be working after that. Hope this helps TLTEL

Hi, When you get it fixed, you will find out what Sundays are for! goodluck TLTEL

Hi Do you know for sure that you have a lighting coil in the generator, on the TL 125 it was an optional extra. I think I would look at an xl from the same age to get an idea of the wiring layout switchgear and brake lights, you will also need to fit a battery if you want the lights to be effective. TLTEL

Hi I think you have the right set up now, they shouldnt be that hard to compress, I think with two small spings in each you would be constantly on the rebound. try it like it is ,you might have to play around with differrent oils toget the damping right. The forks on my TL are quite light but hanlde most things I throw it at. They are the later ones with the bolt on top and are easier to undo and do up, but I think they only have one long spring in them. Good luck with the trial! TLTEL

Hi make sure you have some free play on the brake lever, if you hav'nt it might stop the fluid returning to the reservoir and cause the pads to rub and over heat.try releasing the screw and lock nut on the lever. TLTEL

Hi Bob Just a thought did you check the tank breather in the cap, make sure you are not getting a vacuum in the tank as the fuel is used quickly. It does sound like a fuel problem. TLTEL

Hi Ian A good bunch of photos. I have checked out your flickr site and there are lots of great trials pictures, Especially the ones of me and my son at the new year charity trial at hook woods, (I had just broken a metatarsal bone just before my picture was taken, Hense the grimace) keep the pictures coming. TLTEL

Hi Im not familiar with beta wiring but if the ignition and fan share a common earth, make sure the earth point is claen and secure, take it off and clean it, In have had a problem with and eath on one of my bikes. Try it It wont cost you anything, Good luck TLTEL

Hi Slogger I had a similar problem of the rear brake locking on my sons gas gas, Not sure why but it seems its not uncommon and managed to borrow a 10mm spanner off another rider that had also had this problem. Since then we always carry a spanner and just release the bleed nipple to reduce pressure.(although only had to do it one more time) This was on a bike that had a new master cylinder and caliper seals and fliud level was correct, My assumption was that maybe my son tends to ride the back brake which overheats the fluid. Its worth putting a spanner in your pocket next time out it might save your ride. TLTEL

Don't forget to clean out the air filter, Suprised noone has mentioned this, Better still fit a new filter. You didnt say wheather you have cleaned the carb or changed the fuel in the tank, if there is water in it , it could be frozen,! TLTEL