tltel

Legally ???? I'm guessing not !!

Surely I can't be the only one that just Jet washs there bike off, quick wipe down,Wd - 40 over the moving bits and puts it away till next time. I check it over the day before a trial, oil / adjust chain etc. I have only had the stator cover of twice in three years, once just to have a look when I first bought it and once to replace crank seal. Both times it was dusty dry in there. 1995 gasser 350. TLTEL

Hi Toxiic_pompey Not bad for a young newbie. You will soon be riding over them logs on the back wheel and accross those gullies not along them. Nice play ground. Where do you lads get that awfull music from??? (I am 51 by the way) TLTEL

Don't take it to heart J13me. But don't set fire to it either. Go for the TXT and sell yours on Ebay, its still worth a few hundred quid to someone as it is. At least you can get out and ride. TLTEL

Hi choosing a bike is a personal thing really, if you're looking to spend £1500 you should get a good bike. Its always a bit of a gamble buying used but generally go for a bike that looks like its been looked after. If it looks like it needs lots of little things replacing, like broken levers, worn sprockets, tyres then chances are it probably has'nt had the oil changed regularly either. IMHO There are some great bikes around 05, 06 for that money,good luck. FWIW, I don't like Betas, but thats just a personal thing!!! TLTEL

To be fair, you are trying to do a rebuild in reverse, you should have stripped it and done it properly, If its been standing for, i think you said 6 years and obviously badly abused when it was working, (probably by you) you can hardly blame the bike can you??? I ordered a new sprocket, throttle cable and fuel pipe for my gas gas today. Figured the old throttle cable is nearly 18 years old so i would change it before it broke on me. Never had a DNF due to bike failure yet. TLTEL

£600 seems about right, you rarely pick something up for that price and don't have to do a bit of work on it. Look at it as getting to know it, change the gearbox oil, I use atf in my 95 and my sons 94 and they work fine, and as b40rt says start it in gear and ride it with the clutch in, it will soon free off. TLTEL

You should have checked the electric feed to the thermo switch before buying a new fan, trace all the wires, check connections and most important clean the earth points. Not sure if you have regulator or rectifier or both but these rarely fail, its more likely to be a connection or melted / pinched wire. TLTEL

Must have looked like a tractor !! TLTEL

Hi Migsy and Bonito (obviously feeling unloved) As said gasgasuk have most parts still available but you will have to order over the phone. brake parts, seals,bearings etc Ebay or splatshop as these bits are common to most bikes. Oh and welcome. TLTEL

Hi Betarob have you actually tried adjusting the carb fuel screw (assume its a dellorto) ? It can make a lot of difference to the way the engine runs, If removing the air filter helps then its probably just compensating for the fact that its getting too much fuel.. Also have you removed the choke plunger to check that it is shutting off the enriching circuit when you turn it off. Try it with a new plug.. TLTEL

Think my 95 jtr is a 14mm shaft, got my kickstart lever from gas gas. TLTEL

Hi Mate glad you were reunited with your old TL. I bought my 76 TL in 1979, used it for about 5 years then sold it to a mate, years later bought it back and restored it and have used it in quite a few trials,it just sits in the garage at the moment, I start it up occasionaly and have a play on it. Back to the coils my bike only had one fitted (I tried to buy one back in 79 from Honda as I wanted to fit lights but it was going to be too expensive) I would trace the wire to see where it goes to in the loom, I think it would just be an earth wire. If you cut it make sure you can solder it back together if needed. TLTEL

Sorry but I have to agree, I think that pump is going to be trouble, You will never be sure its working right and it could destroy your engine!! TLTEL

Hi Andy By coincidence I have just had this problem with an xr125 that I bought for my son, I was told when I bought it that it had a slight oil leak from the clutch side and that the cover had been replaced, I did buy the bike as a non runner. Got it running and found the slight leak to be a gusher. bought new gasket and fitted it with a bit of gasket dressing/ sealer, still gushing. Took it apart again and found a hairline crack in the crank case where the bottom front screw fits.Today I have sealed it up with the silicone gasket sealer (I hate this stuff and dont like to use any thing on new gaskets ) Fitted another new gasket and its fine, ran it through a few heat cycles and no sign of oil leaks. I will be looking for a replacement crankcase half once I have got the bike road legal. The reason for that waffle is, Make sure you clean and check the crankcase before you put on the new cover, I wasted half a day today and a gasket and oil and didnt get to take the gas gas out. TLTEL

Beat me to it with the head gasket, tried to buy one for a TYZ once, re-used the old one. Dont know why they are so expensive... TLTEL

Hi most of the scooter / ped sites will have tune up parts for those engines TLTEL

Hi Mike55 just to clarify what my problem was with squish clearance, I too was not used to 2 strokes and had always had 4 stroke bikes, so when I bought my gas gas and took it out for a run I was horrified by the knock when the engine got hot. After some research and firstly changing the small end bearing as the noise did sound like the top end, I discovered squish clearnce, very basicly its the distance between the top of the piston and the cylinder head. If you check the forums on here its explained how to measure it with a piece of solder wire. My bike had a very small clearance (cant remember size) so I took it up to max recomended gap think it was 1.5mm by fitting two cylinder base gaskets. Being a 350cc it also made the bike easier to kick over and start.Two years later it has'nt missed a beat. Not saying this is your problem but it made me understand the bike a bit more, presumeably you would get a similar symptom if you needed to decoke the top end. Good luck TLTEL

Hi I assume you mean the arm on the end of the gear shaft and not the actual selecter fork inside the gearbox. Did try turning the star on the end of the selecter drum to make sure gears can be selected with out the shaft in place. When you refit the shaft run it up and down through the gears by hand before putting it all back together. TLTEL

Hi Its a long time since I had a look inside my TLS but have you checked the arm on the gear shaft to make sure its not bent or worn were were it locates on the selecter star. Also Is it the clutch cover that stops the shaft from moving in(end play ) ? It could be worn. Can't really see how it could be inside the gearbox. TLTEL

Hi I dont know much about TY'S , but it sounds a bit like the problem I had with my gasser when I got it, it sounded serious,quite a heavy knock, I changed small end bearing and it was still the same, turned out to be the squish clearance was too tight (practically none existant). Fitted a thicker base gasket and it cured it. TLTEL

Today I rode my old 350 gas gas round 45 extremely muddy sections. Brilliant! The longest trial loop I have ever ridden, more like an enduro circuit. Pumped that clutch so much my finger hurt !! TLTEL

maybe he is going to be using the new 125.. TLTEL

Hi pete-scorpa3. I do hope you get this sorted and I admire you for the time and effort you have put in to this to comply with MSA requirements. I also feel that the acu should jump in and get their legal department to clarify this for their members. There really should not be so many grey areas. When this event (and others) does go ahead I hope all those that turn up and ride appreciate how much work (unpaid) goes into organising it. TLTEL

You mean brake then! TLTEL