tltel

If you have the filter fitted, it could just be the flow from the tap its self. Check it all any way at least free. , With my bike I can always tell when I need to switch to reserve as it starts to knock really bad, as soon as fuel flows it stops knocking TLTEL

Glad you got to have a go at last, I am sure it will be the first of many. I think Trials is pretty unique in how friendly the sport is, you can have some top riders doing mad things with there bikes then next up a total newby having a go for the first time or a youngster with dad running along side, and I have never had a bad day out or seen anything but people having fun. TLTEL

Hi, Don't panic yet. you have probably taken some dirt into the carb as fuel was running out. give carb a clean and flush out fuel tank and it will be fine........ Check the fuel flow from tap too to make sure top is not blocked in the reserve outlet. lean mixture will make it KNOCK ! TLTEL

and buy something more common and cheaper. Like AJP !! TLTEL

Hi If the blue marks were on the bike when you got. This is an old problem and probably why it was sold. I would guess CDI control box is at fault. Good luck TLTEL

hi. First off I have never ridden a 300 4 stroke trials bike, but I am guessing it has plenty of torque and that 1st gear is pretty much useless on the tracks. Therefore if you raised the front sprocket by one tooth (assuming that it will actually fit in the space around the shaft)that should help to make 1st gear a bit more usable and should also give more top end speed if you need it, not sure what will happen to the other gears but they will all obviously be higher. Chain will probably be long enough so cost is minimal and its easy enough to change back, if you wanted to use the bike for what it was designed for. It seems to me that if you try 43/44 with the 11 front it will be similar to the 10/42 setup and I think you are going the wrong way. sometimes you can get lucky with the gearing changes but only you know what you want to achieve. Maybe its the motor that needs tweaking and not the gearing. Maybe you should swap it for KTM TLTEL

Ask for advice, then do the opposite TLTEL

Hi, when you say checked plug and it was fine, is that just a visual check or did you try it in something else,? a plug that looks new can still fail. Try it with a new or different plug. As suggested, disconnect kill switch wires and try for spark, if still no spark, re-connect it. Check HT lead and cap are tight. Then on to flywheel. You really wont get that off without a puller, they cost around £20. assuming the flywheel is the same design as the bigger bikes, the puller screws into the centre of the flywheel and fits over the shaft, a bolt is then screwed into the centre against the shaft end and the flywheel pops off. If the thread in flywheel looks to be about 26mm then it is the same as the bigger engines so maybe someone at your club could lend you one. ( my gas gas puller fitted my sons mopeds) The best way to undo the flywheel bolt is with a windy gun but if not available, a sharp tap with a hammer on a socket T bar will probably do the trick. Then hopefully there will be something obvious like a broken or loose wire. I have never had a stator issue before but if you can get it off I am sure you could get it tested. Good luck TLTEL Sorry, I had my dinner in the middle of writing that!!!

why do you want to change timing? If it is the same as TLR there is no adjustment. it is pre set. TLTEL Sorry I was thinking Reflex. Not sure about the Seeley.

set where it runs right !! TLTEL

Yes have to agree.. clean the carb again, do you have an inline filter? it doesn't take much to block a pilot jet. Think the kickstart thing has been covered before, think its normal. TLTEL

Hi Grahamb 1961 Not really sure what you have got as i'm not familiar with TLR 125 engine. But I do know there is a difference in timing on xl and TL 125 models. I assume you have cdi ignition, where is your pulse sender now, head or flywheel? camshaft can be drilled to alter timing if pickup is in head. TLTEl

True! but you're probably talking less than 0.5mm so not enough to notice on an "old rev3", I have played around with base gaskets, we are not talking race engines here! TLTEL

That bike isn't even slightly muddy, mine looks like that after the jet wash! If at least one wheel is still going round you can keep moving. Your riding gear is still clean, I have to scrape mine with a trowel before they can go in the washer. Man Up!! TLTEL

Check the pump is still working, if you holed the rad that's where the bits will be. TLTEL

wrong slide ! TLTEL

If your sprocket was that badly worn, the chain is probably shot too, which means your rear sprocket probably needs changing too. voice of experience! If your chain snaps on a big climb like mine did when I first got my gas gas,. you wouldn't believe how fast you can go in reverse with no chain attached. TLTEL

Not really, I would have adjusted carb but no re-jetting. The main reason for me doing it was to increase the squish clearance as it was knocking quite bad when I got the bike, It sounded quite serious when it got hot. when I checked the squish clearance with solder wire I found there was practically no clearance and the solder was almost cut through. Being a 350 it was (and still is) high on compression and would kick back quite violently. I cant remember the actual numbers but I used two gaskets to give slightly over the recommended clearance. Possibly 1.2mm but youre bike will be different anyway. It is much more civilised when starting and it runs fine and doesn't knock at all know and I have been riding it regularly for over three years. hope this helps TLTEL

Pinking will occur when engine is under load, TLTEL

Hi when I did this to my 350 Gas Gas, I left the head attached to the barrel, no need for top end O rings, I made my base gaskets myself so I could try different thicknesses. TLTEL

I think you know the answer to that question!! You always take a chance re-using a gasket, I wouldn't risk it with a head seal. TLTEL

This sounds like a lean fuel knock, Give the carb a clean and check fuel flow. If carb has a filter clean that too. It will sometimes knock like this as you run out of fuel or its time to turn tap to reserve. TLTEL

I don't know anything about head inserts, but maybe re-jetting is the answer. Was it pinking before you did the head. TLTEL

squish and float adjustment have been covered loads of times you should be able to search for them on the forum. Might be worth taking the exhaust off and looking at the top of the piston to see if its coked up. TLTEL

Try the slow action tube, it cant do any harm, only about a tenner. Also make sure the biting point of the clutch is at a comfortable reach on the lever. Some people remove a couple of springs from the clutch to make them less grabby, or experiment with different oils in the gearbox. TLTEL