monteberg

any feedback on tcx terrian 2 trials boots they look the mutts nuts any good?

seriously dont buy without trying on med in one make is small in another and med in one is large in another etc etc some are loose fit others are skin tight same goes for boots helmets gloves you must try

hell yeh get some pies in ya lad

hi all lanyard kill switches are a must on a snowmobile the problem of a physical tether is even worse because you move around so much more on the machine but when you have a big off its a must (to save not only the engine but the whole machine can become a runaway ) so some smart a has come up with a wireless kill switch little box on machine(snowmobile or bike) with an antenna and you wear or have with you the ´´KEY´´ when the 2 are seperated (you adjust the distance ) ignition is killed check out source innovation ltd in calgary (canada) its called teth air

at the end of the day running a tube in a tubeless set up is a bodge job you can not reliably run with pressures as low as we do with tube less and for peace of mind I would not run a tube without a rimlock my trials hoj even has one on the front (tubeless rear) enduro has two rear and one front (tubed both ends) drilling a hole is no biggy and if you return to tubeless just bung an extra valve in the hole to close it

I have been using chain oil (motor chain saw) for more years than I would like to admit both on trial and enduro lubes real good , doesnt seem to pick up loads of **** and it is cheap (and i have to buy it for saws anyway so its always in the garage)

x2 on t shock 250 comments and if you feel the need to run a tube and are worried about tyre rotation tearing out the valve why not just fit a rim locK?????

crank seals drawing air ?????????????????????

hello I had same problem with mine run like champ all day using it as trials machine ,road use or trail (green laning) it had symptons of fuel starvation after 10 mins or so of top gear fixed throttle riding tried everything to fix carb/ign/fuel delivery/ turned out believe or not to be exhaust needed a decoke worth a try

hi there I had the same problem years ago after updating to a modern mono bike with a fast throttle practice as i did it didnt get better until a wise old man gave me the advice to ride always covering the clutch with one finger (which I already did ) but also the same with the front brake this he said will give a stable point of referance and smooth out your inputs and stop unwanted inputs whilst riding obstacles worked wonders for me and I still ride like this now hope it helps and hope you get the jist of what Iam saying

Yes ali bars suck up loads of heat from grip warmers, but a good tip is to fill the air space in the hollow bars ,expandining aerosol foam works great and you use without removing grips by jabbing the applicator nozzle /hose through the end of the grip we do it to snowmobile bars and it makes a big differance ps just have cleaning up stuff at hand it can be a messy job ,,,,gets better with practice good luck

hi i bought a 2001 18 months ago (new /unused 1,3 km on clock )and paid 2000 euros in italy hope that helps

hi i bought a 2001 18 months ago (new /unused 1,3 km on clock )and paid 2000 euros in italy hope that helps

get down to your local industrial clothing (work wear supplier) huge choice for all weathers/seasons .some of the mechanics gloves are well sorted for trials and a fraction of the cost of trendy(sorry trials )gloves

I second what telecat said stay tubeless you have to drill an extra hole for a rim to bead lock or youll be fittting a new tube ever time the tyre slips and rips valve from tube ,and once youve drill it yuo cant go back to tubeless with out welding hole up what tyre did you get? and when you say off the rim do mean tyre bead says between wheel rims or ends up off the wheel if its the first pump it up to about 30 psi and leave it standing as long as possible (like a few days ) if its coming off the wheel there is something wrong like not tubeless tyre

one the first hm (honda /montesa ) ????????????? bet it sounds sweet, check out the silencer (or lack of)

If you really insist on riding naked please for safety sake at least wear boots and helmet dont know where you live but its far to cold in the northern hemispere for that kind of malarky ps ,post some pics merry christmas and happy new year to everyone that reads this

hi R likewise ive never been able to get real answer ,and have always deduced that the mystical MIDDLE , NEATRAL ,NATURAL , or various other named position is vertical , what I have always done is stand bike on level ground ,kneel down and view bars sideways on and position the first bend out of the clamps vertical wether this is correct or not ? i dont know but it works for me .i have tried other folks bikes and they have used everything from rolled forward to the extreme to rolled back easy rider style so same goes ,if someone out there can help with the science behind it and give a technical explanation if one exists , i would very interested cheers

measure two points on front forks (bike on stand )so no weight on front wheel .then take off stand and get on the bike with the gear you ride with ,boots helmet and so on ,an adjust big blue allen screw until you get 60mm less and your good to go,

yes count your clicks on damping from full in (max damping)just back it out slowly and count clicks ,, enjoy

on them showa forks only one leg has a spring in it and its the one with the big blue allen screw,the screw is for adjusting the preload on the spring to get the sag right for your weight(providing your within the range of the spring and dont need to change it )the other leg has the damping adjustment(smaller blue knob you can turn with fingers) hope this helps

hi there if its a comp trial and you have to use trials tyres ,forget it stay at home or go and watch ,trials tyres are worse than useless in snow and ice (useless its wet and melting and you can cut through it to terra firma if its for fun riding and your flush ,slash out on some real studded ones like trelleborgs or a budget option is home stud some used mx tyres (if you go for studs youll need to put spacers on front mud guard and check clearance on rear{suspension compressed)as it might touch exhaust or something ps iam running home studdded on both trial and enduro superb fun and amazing grip givit a go yul lov it

hi I've been using plastic cable ties (zip clips on the two rear screws on back mudguard so as not to crease or snap it but had problems getting a reasonable seal to stop water and debris passing over the top of the airfilter box and although there great at saving the rear guard the cable ties snap a little to easily eg; just touch rear guard a bit hard with leg or boot and ping so now trying plastic dome head screws(similar to number plate screws) seem ok up to now havent snapped riding or man handling bike but havent crashed it hard enough yet so just wondering what you guys are using ps, ive used em long enough to show 10mm through the captive nut so can get em out with pliers if (when)head shears off

hej hej janne! En stor valkommen. Jag bor ocksa i norra sverige, i norrbottens lan nara lulea, var bor du? Sorry about poor svenska only been here since july and english keyboard with no dots and dashes.