opdeweegh1

Yep. Thats exactly what the problem is the clutch plates have swollen above the 9.75mm max allowable tolerance, if you remove the clutch plates both friction and steel as they come from the bike and measure them with a vernire caliper you'll see straight away, it might only be as much as 9.85 but believe me it makes all the difference. Mine were about 9.85-9.90, I contacted Kev at gasgas uk and he advised either replace the whole clutch package or buy a thinner steel plate to bring the clutch pack back down to the 9.75 tolerance. I replaced the whole clutch and what a difference. The reason for the clutch plates swelling might be changing to a different oil or perhaps a water contamination in the past as it was with mine, my water pump seal went and all my water ended up in the oil. cheers.

Hi there. I had my wheels done by "The trick wheel company" pretty much the sams as Candy wheels, did an excellent job, had the wheels done black with the hubs powder coated yellow, looks great. They also will do swingarms, triple clamps, side cases etc etc, just about anything aluminium for a pretty competetive price. Both Candy wheels and TTWC advertise their prices on the websites. Hope it helps.

Hi there. A couple of thoughts, have you checked that the overflow pipe from the radiator fill cap is not blocked or damaged. Where is the fluid being discharged from? Maybe try and link the 2 wires from the thermostat together and have the fan run continous for a while to see if the fan can cope with the hotter climatic temps in Idaho? Are you using any type of antifreeze coolant in the water, this will also aid cooling efficiency. Are you losing any water anywhere obvious other than when it overheats? If your losing water through the water pump seal then your transmission oil will be emulsified. Cheers.

Chris. For the flywheel puller it is a special tool that screws into the internal thread inside the centre hole of the flywheel. these can be bought online at BVM motos or www.trialsparts.co.uk or gasgas uk about 9 quid I think. As for the tool to hold the flywheel while you remove the locking nut, these can easily be made from a piece of flat bar, say 3-4mm thick and 8-10" long. it needs to be wide enough for you to drill a hole in it just bigger than the centre hole on the flywheel to allow you to put a socket on the nut. What to do is measure the distance between the 2 small holes and drill corresponding holes on the flat bar, using 2 nuts and bolts, say 4-5mm, bolt these into the holes on the flat bar to make a type of fork, drill the larger hole between the 2 smaller holes to correspond with the flywheel bolt hole. Place the fork tool into the 2 small holes on the flywheel allowing you to put a socket through the big hole in the middle to remove the locking nut from the flywheel. Hope it helps.

Ned1. If you ask for advice and it's not what you want to hear then that's your perogative not to take it, however if you ask for advice and then get crappy, like calling people a "tit" then don't expect to get too much help in the future. If you have got the engine out and it's on the bench then you have done a lot already. To check if the little end bearing is gone is pretty straight forward, remove the cylinder head and check the o-rings head gaskets, undo the barrel bolts and gently slide the barrel off the piston. Take hold of the piston at the side where the gudgeon / little end bearing pin is and see if there is any up and down or side to side play. Remove one of the circlips and push out the pin, check for any scoring / rings etc on the pin, set the piston to one side. push out the little end bearing from the conrod and make sure all the needles form the bearing are intact. If the bearing is obviously gone you will know, just replace it and the gudgeon pin, check the rings on your piston are free in the grooves. When you go to put it back together use a large jubilee clip over the piston rings to keep them compressed enough to slide the barrel back over them, have a good look at your piston and you will see that in each groove there is an anti rotation pin to stop the rings from turning make sure the ends of the rings are located at these pins or you will damage the rings and barrel possibly. Once the barrel is back on then torque up the bolts 15 lbs/ft, replace the head gasket o-rings and put the cylinder head back on, use a bit of grease in the o-ring grooves to hold them in place while you put the head on. Question for you, was the noise from your bike like a top end rattling noise, did it get worse when going up hill? I have experienced a similar noise on my bike and found that the carb air / fuel mixture was wrong and also if the water level in the radiator is low, you get like a boiling kettle noise and the top end rattles like hell if the water is low. Anyway good luck with the rebuild and just take your time.

Ned1. No disrespect intended but if you can't strip down the engine how do you expect to know what your looking for if it is the big or little end bearings, the gearbox is a complex piece of kit and cannot be simply explained using this forum. I honestly believe that you will need to get someone with a motorbike mechanical back ground to help you out with this one or take it to a dealer to find out exactly what is wrong with it. If you still intend to try and solve the problem yourself, then try and get hold of a parts diagram that shows the exploded views of the engine when it is broken down, depending on what year your bike is there are diagrams available from gasgas uk web site and also gasgas.com Hope this helps.

Hi there. Don't remove the swingarm unless you need to, it's a pain to put back in and the bushes don't wear that quickly. Best thing to do is remove rear & centre box from exhaust, remove the top shock bolt and then dissassemble the dog bones and linkages from below leaving the swingarm in place. clean and inspect all the grease seals and needle roller bearings and bushes on the dog bone links. Be carefull when cleaning the roller bearings, as they will fall apart, don't lose any of the needles or you'll need new ones, once all cleaned pack them with fresh wheel bearing grease and re-install the same way you removed them. Hope it helps. Cheers.

Has been a common problem with the pro over the years unfortunately. Take it to a reputable welding shop / contractor, they should be able to do aluminium argon welding, some places can be funny and are not interested but it can be done. Alternatively there are epoxy type bonds that can be used, however these will fail again after time. Have a good look at the bottom of your tank and see if it has been making contact with any other part of your frame etc, I have little pieces of rubber about 2mm thick glued in strategic places on my tank to prevent such metal failure. Hope this helps. cheers.

Does any one know if the the trial at Dunduth organised by Dunfermline and district is still on Sunday 23rd July. If so has anyone got an entry form and info please. Cheers.

Thanks for the Littlestar. Will hopefully see you there, I'm trying to get a couple of the guy's to go, were based in Dunoon so it's a couple of hours away. Thanks for the directions though. Do you know if the Dunduff trial organised by Dunfermline and district is still on the Sunday 23rd? I can't find any info on it. Cheers. Paul.

I spoke to Doug McNaughton of the Perth and district MCC today to ask about entry forms for the trial advertised in the t&mx news for the Monday 24th July at Comrie near Perth. Doug has assured me that the trial is on the Tuesday night starting at 18:30, so there is a misprint in the t&mx news. Is anyone else going to the trial and has it been held there before, any good? Cheers.

I should be there + 2. Cheers.

Cheers for all the responses guy's, going to my first trial on the 18th near Callander. Just wanted to make sure that all was in order before I go and make a fool of myself. Cheers.

In the SACU regs book it say's that you must display the last three digits of your competition license on the front of the bike when entering a trial. Do you just buy sticky numbers from an auto dealer to do this or what?

Hi there. I recently had my wheel rims anodised black and the centre hubs powder coated yellow at the trick wheel company advertised in the TMX. Great results and all for 200 quid delivered back to the house.

Cheers for the advice guy's will give Kev a call at gasgas and see what he recommends.

Hey Guys. I need some help/advice on a gasgas 03 300 pro clutch? A couple of months ago I removed my clutch cover for routine maintenance. While putting it back together the clutch cylinder came off the inside of the cluth cover, no big deal. Put it back on and assembled the cover housing, removed the master cylinder cover and used a syringe to back bleed the clutch from the bleed nipple at the clutch cover through to the master cylinder. Every thing went Ok and the clutch seemed fine, however I have noticed over the past couple of months that the clutch lever operation appears to be alot heavier and after about an hours riding my forearm resembles that of popeye! I have tried opening the bleed nipple and reducing the pressure a bit, but that just makes the clutch operation soft again until the pumping of the lever pumps up the clutch and it becomes heavy again. I've heard maybe to install a larger master cylinder or even remove a couple of the clutch fingers from inside the clutch basket to make it a bit lighter. Does anyone have any similar experience or ideas please before I go spending cash to resolve a problem that wasn't there originally? Cheers.

I agree with R2W, I run the Dexron II in my gasgas and the only time that I have seen the oil turn pink is when the water pump seal failed and started to let water into the clutch housing. Check your water level and see if you have lost any? It's difficult to tell if the water pump seal has failed just by looking at it because they are so small, unless ofcourse that it is obvious and there is a chunk missing. It's better just to replace the seal anyway, sometimes the water pump shaft also gets a lip worn into it and that needs replaced also, maybe that only applies to the gasgas, I'm not sure, but might be worth checking anyway. The seal and shaft are not that expensive, so worth it in the long run. Hope it helps.

I think you should get the bike built up for Sunday so we can go and do some riding!! See ya Steve.

The carbon fibre sheet that gasgas Kev used is sold in Halfords at the usual "Bling my motor" shelf, it sells for around

It definately sounds like a timing issue. But why it would shear or loosen the flywheel wood ruf key after sitting for 5 minutes is a bit strange to say the least. I would definately pull the flywheel and check it out anyway.

Really depends on which year you buy, but I have an 03 pro and have just bought 06 plastics for it, so here goes. mud guard 20 quid radiator plastics 8.50 each airbox / seat unit c/w decals and airbox cover 157.00, 03 is about 114.00 rear mudguard 41.00 tank sticker 19.00 All purchased from gasgas uk. hope this gives you an idea.

Friend of mine has recently bought an 04 SY250. Anyone got a wiring diagram for it. Had problems with a broken wire while out at the weekend, managed to get it sorted but a wiring diagram / schematic will help for future reference.

Ah yes what level of rider am I? I would say the level that falls off a lot, so I am looking for the silky smooth delivery. Since your reply I am currently setting the bike back up after my water pump seal failed so the carb is currently off the bike, I have already moved the needle clip back to the centre setting and screwed in the air screw as it was about 3 turns out. No wonder it was hunting for fuel and running lean. The jetting at present is 48 pilot and a jjh needle so will try your suggestions and see how we go.

Cheers Howard. Thats great, just the info to get me back on track, thanks again to everyone for all the help.