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Well I would start with a second opinion, find an experienced Sherco guy and have him start your bike for you This would eliminate errors in your starting procedure If he tells you the bike is unusual then it could be as simple as replacing the spark plug and setting the air screw Does the bike have fresh fuel?

Don't forget to make a Bou edition But there can be only one

Another reason to make trials an Olympic sport : We could finally beat china at something

Really?, I sat through about a half hour of mindsuckingly boring horse crap called "Dressage" How the hell do they call that a sport Sure there is a lot of dedication there but that stuff does not deserve to be in the same league as an Olympic gymnast

How about some way to do it from an iPad or iPhone?

LOL, interesting comment on the ride too fast thing, my problem is that I try and ride too slow I'm not good enough for that but it's a habit seem to have developed

Actually a found the most usefull investment was in a trials bicycle My low speed balance has improved dramatically from just rolling around doing low speed balance and wheel hopping Aside from from that, new tires were surprisingly more supple than the old hard worn ones I took off Surprising how much easier it is to ride when you don't have to concentrate so hard on some of the basics And finally, I bought an Evo, wow, what an improvement

Ya me too, I have been a service tech and a factory service representative since the early 80's and I have seen sooo many weird one time problems that I know you are almost always on your own with these gremlins There are no short cuts and usually the Internet just takes you in directions you don't need to go It's just like riding, go back to the basics and you often find your problems on the ground floor sometimes you need someone else who knows half of what you know to come by and point out some stupidly obvious things.......trust me, I have been on both sides of this one LOL Hey you don't have a bent float pin or mabe a burr from a pair of pliers or something? These parts should be sloppy and loose, seems like wear but it's usually good

LOL, sorry my spell correct changed your name to Pinkie and I didn't even notice Ya fuel is such a load of crap, most of the fuel we buy is just a chemical mix and the fuel companies don't even have to tell us what we are buying! All they need to say is the alcohol content if it is over 10% (in Canada) The best joke is that most fuel stations here only have 2 tanks but sell 3 grades of fuel...... So both the 87 and the 89 come from the same tank, even the ones with 3 tanks get filled by a truck with only 2 tanks, Hmmmmm..... A fuel truck driver turned me onto that one

Pinkie the reason for higher octane is simply to decrease detonation There is a lot of mis understanding about fuels, the big oil guys want people to think premium is a better because they make more profit on it, they put more detergents and crap in it to make it sound more important but in the end you are just buying less fuel and more chemicals Your engine will make its best power on the lowest octane fuel you can run without getting abnormal combustion (most often detonation), it will run cleaner and produce less carbon buildup This is easily proven on a dyno, if you put 100 octane in an engine that will run without detonation on the cheep stuff you will get a lot of unburned hydrocarbons and lower power output The other way to describe it would be your engine works best on the most volatile fuel you can burn in it, not the least And you are spot on with the "light ends" evaporating rapidly, much of this stuff is designed for easy startup and lower emissions but it does go off quickly if it's not stored in a non vented steel container at cool temps

It's just not the same for everyone, I have big hands but long fingers I get cramps in my knuckles from small diameter grips, always have and it doesn't matter how sticky or soft they are Larger grip, comfy hands

You need to bench test it repeatedly, even if the floats are moving it does not mean the needle is Again, there could be shellac in the seat along the sides Q tip and toothpaste to polish it up then bench test a dozen times If you have access to an extra float bowl plug make up a fuel level Gauge with a little barbed spigot and a thin piece of clear hose to hold up to the side of the carb body The fuel height should be approximately level with the gasket surface I can safely say that in most cases like this people overlook the simple stuff and look for the most complex scenarios Ockam's Razor = the simplest most obvious conclusion is usually the correct one

Member the Q tip and toothpaste thing, could be shellac on the seat but ya good comment above, does fuel flow through the peacock? And don't neglect the float bowl vent hoses, if they are pinched or plugged then fuel won't pour, just like plumbing And make sure you bench test it before you install it

Huh! Normally neoprene does not react to fuel or almost any thing you would pour in a fuel tank I used to use a Q tip and lapping compound on the seat but toothpaste works well also

TAG makes a nice grip that is a bit larger Nice and tacky, I have used street grips before and liked them but they woul be no good in wet conditions

You might have a leak somewhere else that is affected by pressure, I suggest a big bucket of water and some patience Proper diagnosis is key, of course you could use the old spit on the valve trick to see if it leaks Spit is a diagnostic tool

And maybe don't get too caught up in engine size Horsepower is not as important as you might think so even a 200 would do you well for a couple seasons

If the case corroded and it got coolant in the trans then the milkshake could take a long time to go away, Might take several oil changes, I have filled the trans with deisel to flush moisture from cases before Of course several oil changes after that maneuver

One of 3 things happens 1 You get engine compression leaking into the cooling jacket, this will blow coolant if excessive and you will also get oil and carbon etc in the coolant,, usually pretty obvious 2 Coolant leaks into the combustion chamber, this means low coolant and white smoke from the exhaust, also condensation on the plug and combustion chamber when the engine is cold 3 Simply a weeping gasket that pushes coolant out and dribbles it down the cylinder If its possible to pressure test the cooling system always do it when the engine is hot, there is a lot of thermal expansion and it happens at different rates as the engine warms, there may be no problems when the engine is cold

Go back to the Ryan young first DVD I think what a lot of people do is think they don't need to learn the basic stuff and we couldn't be more wrong He teaches how to set up the controls, how to wheely and proper stance on the bike etc I have ridden everything with handlebars for well over 30 years and I had to unlearn a lot of things and go from the ground up Trust me as a guy whos only a year and change into trials, if you don't have the basic stuff absolutely nailed your first trial will not go well, its the simplest things that make the biggest difference You really do have to go ride around in circles on flat ground a lot and learn how to turn the bike

I used to wear one riding snowmobiles but snowmobile trails are miles and miles of whoops and long ago sleds had bad rear suspension I don't see the need for trials and there's no doubt it makes it harder to breath, would make for a tiring day But then again, maybe there are some belly's that need it, injury, surgery, hernia etc

And putting your man parts on the tank while climbing only applies the people who DONT ride Sherco's

There is a very significant science to what goes on in the head pipe of a 2 stroke engine The exhaust gas temperature at a certain RPM that the manufacturer designed the exhaust to make its best quality or quantity of power is very specific, the return pulse is timed to hit the exhaust port just as the piston is closing the port, there's a couple of reasons but mainly to keep the fuel mix from escaping into the exhaust If we were to wrap the headpipe to increase the temperature in the exhaust what happens is the thinner gasses allow the return plus to move more rapidly, potentially it would return too early and the effect is spoiled Only an engineer and a dyno and a lot of testing equipment would be able to test the benefits of header wrap and even then it would only work over a small RPM range, it sure ain't no "best kept tuning secret" If it were a cheep way to make power, the factory's would be putting double wall pipes on the bikes rather than wasting their time on high tech ignition systems and time consuming porting work, I have only seen wrap used successfully on snowmobiles, but they are unique in that they get snow on the pipe and they really only at a narrow RPM range so it works on them, maybe a 2 stroke race bike could benefit as well

" it should not matter how tight you do up the wheel nuts as this will not load the bearings " Actually you would be quite surprised how much distortion there is when a bolt is tightened, anyone who has tried to unscrew a fork cab before loosening the triple clamp will attest to this, it won't even budge, and that's a hard steel tube squeezed by a couple of 6mm bolts the only reason a bolt will tighten is because the threads stretch and lock into the nut, etc etc So yes the spacer will compress if over torqued and side load the bearing

Nope, oil does not increase the thermal efficiency of the mix, it decreases it, oil burning in a bucket is not a scientific comparison, it's just there to lube the engine Theoretically the more oil you have the less fuel you have so although it will help assist in ring seal it will not increase power This is very minimal though, it might be measurable on the factory's dyno but you and I wont feel any diff in the seat of the pants, atmospheric pressure and altitude will make much more substantial difference in power output as will proper jetting