0007

I think you are missing something If the caliper piston won't move then it certainly is not getting pressure from the master First bleed the master, remove the line and put your finger over the hole and just pump til the master makes pressure, you might skip this one and just move to step 2 Then bleed the brake line, install it on the master and remove the caliper end, pinch the hose between your fingers and just pump til you have clear fluid, hold it higher than the master so the air travels up Push the piston back all the way into the caliper and put a clamp on it, install the hose and bleed, after you have pressure, remove the clamp and put it on the caliper back on, just pump it til the pads hit the disc and test for pressure and normal brake feel

Loose flywheel?

Looks like a pain to put fluid in the rear master

Good to hear, talk with Dave at outlaw, he usually has a line on something You will like Trials, it's kinda like the Chess of motorcycling, hard but very fun, and the people are great

First: Check the plug for fouling Then check for spark Then check fuel delivery Then check compression Then change the plug anyway Then test the plug cap resistance Then pull the exhaust and look at the piston skirt Unfortunately pulling the engine often leaves you in this situation where you can't check for spark of fuel delivery or compression so you did the last thing first It's like if you get a flat you remove the tire without checking to see if the valve is leaking air Tear down is not diagnosis, only tear down an engine AFTER you suspect a certain specific problem, you don't want to have the crankshaft on the bench when you find a piece of carbon on the spark plug or discover a stator problem

That is good, man Ray peters makes it look easy huh I wanna go to TTC

Just give the carb a smack with ste plastic handle of a screwdriver, most times it just fixes itself You likely won't find anything in there if you take it apart

The shell is not a problem unless it has visible signs of deterioration or impact damage The shell just transfers the impact to the liner and you cannot tell if the liner has damage or deterioration, age can deteriorate the adhesive and general wear and tear just uses it up, Helmets are pretty much a one time deal, if you hit hard, your helmet has done its job and it can't do it twice as the liner absorbs the blow and is damaged Rule of thumb is 4 years and you should replace your helmet, or if it is subjected to impact

The front brake is not a pain to bleed but it's easy to bleed brakes wrong First remove the caliper and push the piston all the way into the caliper Often if there is a bubble at the top (gravity makes this happen) the bubble will be pushed into the master and problem solved, if the bubble is in the caliper there is no room for it so it can be bled through Then just bleed the system as per normal and you should have a firm lever feel Never let the master go dry, just bleed it low and clean the reservoir with a Kleenex and refill, it's a total pain if you suck air at the master cyl If you have problems just pump the brake pads together and then pry them back apart pushing the fluid back to the master, tap the lines etc, remember bubbles sit at the top of things and don't overflow the master when pushing the piston in

I have a rev 3 and I really like it, but I would pay more to get an Evo, to me it seems like low speed balance is easier on an Evo

Nobody can test a CDI properly, you check the stator and the coil and if it isn't them then you swap the CDI Resistance is a poor test of a stator, don't expect your meter or even a dealers meter to tell the truth (resistance is futile) You need to do a peak volt test on it by kicking the bike and testing the power source and pick up for voltage, but you need a special adaptor or the numbers don't make sense, even an adaptor from another brand won't work Sorry for the bad news about testing the stuff yourself but......on the positive side, Its almost always the stator and almost always the pick up coil

I think this one is all about money, Suzuki ain't got none, KTM is looking to blow their wad for some reason I hear there is another big name moving to a private team cuz the money is a problem, Bubba is going to Suzuki and Joe Gibbs as far as I know

I know some altitude stuff from snowmobiles Often you need to richen pilot for high altitude, it's not about the fact that there is less air etc it's simply that lower atmo pressure makes for less signal strength, that means the Venturi can't suck enough fuel through the pilot circuit, for the same reason a larger carb often needs bigger jets Not uncommon to lean out main and needle and richen pilot, also if your needle adjustment stops making much difference you may have to go leaner on the emulsion tube Compression it the other thing, high alt means lower compression, increase compression to raise combustion temperatures, you might be able to increase ign timing at high alt as well

I like it, it's your video, use the music you want But keep makin vids, that's good stuff

I presume you are trying to push the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in? Bikes just don't do that, the friction in the clutch won't let you spin it easily If that's what you are doing then you can't really fix it because it is not broken

I had read through that but thought it was more to solve drag and cold stick Guess it's worth a shot and let you know if it does what I am looking for

Good day gents My rev has a few hours on it and the clutch seems a bit odd It works as it should but the engagement is over a very short range of motion of the lever This makes slipping the clutch in a critical spot hard, you have to concentrate too much in your clutching It seems like it engages over about 10 - 15 mm of lever motion Any solutions to increase the range of lever travel ? Thanks

Mine were tight on the side of my foot, I heated the boots with a hot air gun, put thick socks on and cranked up the buckles uncomfortablly tight and walked around with them It kind of forms the boot to your foot, maybe give that a try, maybe steam would work for the leather parts

Is there air in the system or do you just want to change the fluid? I would bleed it a couple of times to lower the fluid level in the reservoir and then push the piston all the way into the caliper, this pushes most of the fluid out of the caliper and back to the reservoir, then bleed the system Remove the push rod from the master or at least disco it from the brake pedal so you can get a full stroke or you will be there forever Whatever you do don't get the fluid level so low in the reservoir so you get air in the line, it won't come back out I bleed the res til it is low and then sopp up the remaining fluid with a Kleenex and then start adding fresh fluid

Awesome There are very few perfect moments in life and you are right in the middle of it Reminds me of my boy when he was that age, they are always watching

I'm working on the same thing right now, I can picture what i need to do and know the theory but it's like everything needs to happen so fast After practicing on every rock I can find I actually think I am getting there Do you need to push the front end into the rock at the same time you preload the rear? Or do you just let the front end hit with it's own force and only preload the rear I think I over analyze this stuff LOL

Well white smoke means oil (fuel is black) and your trans is low so 2+2 = crank seal leak Usually you get hard starting due to low primary compression/vacuum also The next step would be to have a crankcase pressure test done to be sure The rings don't let the oil by like a 4t would, the fuel/air mix is in the cases and is pushed up on top through transfer ports when the piston moves down creating crankcase pressure, if your trans oil is in there it will be transferred up top and the engine will unsuccesfully try to burn it, hence the fouled plugs

Same here, got my bike in May and learn new things every time I ride, I thought I was burned out on bikes but I now realize that what I was missing was learning something new I love this sport!

http://www.klim.com/en-us/shop/moto/men/pants Comfortable and really good quality

I find larger packs to be more comfortable, most back country packs have straps the pull them up tight when there is not much in them, have a look at Dakine back country ski packs, they have bladders, lots of small pockets, don't flop around when you are in rough conditions and the quality is outstanding