guys

I stand corrected! Now he can practice his reverse riding technique.

There will come a day that the British will realize their mistake and do the same thing.

For example on a GasGas (but many things also apply to other brands): Make the frame tube walls a bit thicker (or use that awesome USA steel! ) so you don't have to fear for cracks when you're a bit over weight. Make the kickstart gears a bit stronger so when people who haven't heard of the correct starting technique don't damage it. (I still see people taking a big wack at it) I would alter the water pump seal so the water can that passes the seal finds a way out without entering the gear box and possible ruin some bearings. Get a proper sealed fan motor. Get rid of the plastic exhaust end peace. Make the brake master cylinders of a better material and with better seals so they last a bit longer. Add some grease nippels to the rear link bearings for easyer maintenance. I don't know if it adds weight, but I would get rid of the antique carburetor and install a high tech fuel injection. Use proper sealed electric connectors instead of the home made crap that they use now. Please don't get me wrong, I'm a fan of lightweight stuff but I also like a bike that's reliable...

There are those among us who don't give a damn about build quality, because they can afford it to buy a new bike every 2 years. I am not one of those...

I've got this bike now for almost 26 years and still love it It's a 1988 BMW R80 converted to a 1000cc with an "S" fairing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57IHHAOAXi0

I would stop focussing so much on lead if I were you: Lead poisoning Symptoms in adultsAlthough children are primarily at risk, lead poisoning is also dangerous for adults. Signs and symptoms in adults may include: High blood pressure Declines in mental functioning Pain, numbness or tingling of the extremities Muscular weakness Headache Abdominal pain Memory loss Mood disorders Reduced sperm count, abnormal sperm

That's an electric mountain bike, not a trial bike, looks like fun though

It's just what you're used to. When I change from a bicycle to a motorcycle, the switch in my head goes automatically. I've been riding bicycles and mopeds/motorcycles almost all my life and never had any problem with the different positions of the front brake. When I got a bicycle at work with the brake levers mounted in "the Dutch way", i.e. the front on the right side, I changed them immediately.

I'm so talented that the adaptation is no problem to me

Also take a look at all of Jim Snell's videos on the subject: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjoj7n74G0s

Did you follow the correct mounting instructions? See from 5:30 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjoj7n74G0s

If the size of the banjo bolt threads is the same, you can...

The fact still remains that stamping a hole is a lot faster and cheaper than milling a recess

These Nissin's are adapted for the Montesa 4RT so I don't know if they will fit your GasGas (note that these Nissin master cylinders have a banjo bolt connection, thats why they come with a suitable brake line) http://www.jbanyeres.com/en/ruedas/2268-bombin-freno-delantero-nissinlatiguillo-avional-type-1.html http://www.jbanyeres.com/en/chasis/199-a.html

And what about the link between Ducati and Magneti Marelli, and the fact that the Open Class was not intended for a factory team like Ducati?

Clutch is on the right side and breather on the left, Would be strange if the leak travelled all the way to the other side...

Been there, done that

The 4RT clutch also can cope with 2 springs less, without any negative side affects I'm told. (If you see the gigantous size of it, it isn't hard to believe) That said, the clutch on a 4RT is standart already reasonably light in my opinion.

And it's home to the nicest people also...

Have you thought of reducing the gear ratio on your final drive? For instance 9 or 10 teeth at the front in stead of 11 and 44 teeth on the rear in stead of say 41 or 42? And learn to mostly control your speed with the rear brake, instead of the clutch, at very slow sections, in other words learn to be sensitive with your right foot. Something else that might interest you: I've adjusted the idle speed on my 4RT reasonably high, at about 1100 to 1200 rpm and I can put the front wheel against a tree with the bike in first gear and it won't stall. (this is of course without my weight on the bike) Although the idle speed is reasonable high, I can ride very slow only using my rear brake... (this also reduces engine braking as feared by most 2-stroke fanatics

Does everybody now understands why 4RT's are so loud !?

There used to be 4 restrictors in the 250 4RT: One where the exhaust meets the cylinder head, one between the front pipe and rear exhaust damper, one in the end of the exhaust and one in the intake, between the throttle body and cylinder head. There also used to be an electronic restrictor but I don't remember exactly how one has to "bypass" that one. It had something to do withe a green/white wire... Mind you, this was all on the 250cc model, don't know what they did to the new 260...

https://www.google.be/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&docid=fAcksuNFYGHakM&tbnid=iLdxpUAS3vtm-M:&ved=0CAYQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.r2wtrials.co.uk%2F&ei=KXMgU7WqMaal0AWip4DwCw&bvm=bv.62788935,d.bGQ&psig=AFQjCNFf_CGLHEMEfZLUXajn4zpzWfv_Fg&ust=1394721859771399 Picture on the right hand side of the page