moleman

Jitsie ones are hard to find but these fit and work well: Kientech Fuel Screw for Suzuki DRZ400S/SM I made the adjustment end a little wider and removed the hot start button ( I have never needed it) which gives good access. got it hot, adjusted it , never touched it since. if you have a flexible screwdriver you can replace it without taking the carb off be careful not to lose the small O ring !

has any one heard of the magnets in the flywheel being affected "changing the polarity" after getting knocked about ? if you hit or drop the flywheel and break a magnet, each broken piece will each have a N and S , so yes you can change the polarity , i.e if you have 6 magnets round the flywheel you will have 6 N and 6 S (start and end of each magnet) if you break one you will have 2 extra poles in a short space you may not know you have done this

Has it got a blue round adjuster on the top of the shock? More than likely that it`s not the spring, but it`s the lack of gas(nitrogen) pressure in the shock ... only about two thirds of the overall spring rate is the spring, the rest is from the 200+ psi inside the shock, when this leaks over time you end up increasing the tension on the spring until there is no adjustment left. the pressure can leak without leaking oil (at first..) but when the pressure drops too far the oil seal will fail, it`s the high pressure that seals it against the shaft. take the shock off then remove the spring, then see if you can compress the shaft by hand, if you can it`s not good, and if you can and it doesn't return then it`s very bad. plenty around second hand though

Check the website again.... try refreshing the page (f5)

loosen the clutch aduster on the master cylinder lever right off and then using needle nose pliers, see if you can pull the piston out, if it comes out at all it may be the cause of your trouble there needs to be a good bit of slack for the piston to come right back and refill properly. a sign that this is happening is that the lever can get stiff before touching the bars if that is ok, then drop the oil and try the clutch with no oil in (ok for a minute or two ) if it still drags as bad with no oil in then no brand or grade of oil is going to fix the problem then, if the two above have not sorted it (still with no oil in! ) loosen the outer smaller clutch cover and try again, the clutch runs very close and a small dent in the cover can stop the clutch fully releasing.

Yes.. What would you like to know?

I fitted a 24mm OKO on my TY175, that combined with modified airbox (had to, as the stock boot would not fit) made a huge difference, from tickover to far higher revs if required. No downsides, at all it is now fitted to my 125 Gas Gas, with same benefits throughout the (extended) range, only downside here is, it`s slightly thirstier

Another confusing thing is that my rear spring seems too soft. My bike is a GasGas 300 Raga -08. I've read that this bike is build for about 70-80 kg. My weight is 65 kg so the spring should be to hard for me. To achieve 1/3 race sag at the rear suspension I have to preload the spring to the bottom. With maximum preload the static sag will be around zero. Do I need a stronger spring even if my weight is bellow 70-80 kg? I really appreciate all help I can get to solve my problems. Getting back to your first post... if you have to adjust the spring all the way down at your weight it may be that you have lost some or all the pressure in the shock, the pressure can contribute 1/4 to 1/3 of spring pressure (in effect) it may show symptoms of oil loss on the shaft or rubber bumper, if you loose all pressure it will leak, as the pressure inside makes the seal work, but it is possible to loose some pressure and still seal. what make of shock is it and does it have a valve? check against another similar bike, and see how far their adjuster is down.

Difficult to set up and adjust, as you know you have two cables to adjust,more nipples to come off and more things to break, i had one for a while and it did work,but any variations as it warms up are hard to compensate for. and its a liability if you fall off as much as i do i went on to the 3 position levers (about the same price) and they have been just as useful at lightening but far easier to adjust and they use a std length cable, i had to shorten the cable to fit the easy clutch and it meant you were stuck if something happend to it, you cant fit a spare lever etc. i have had a look at my old one and as you view from the front the pin was in the bottom hole.

inlet .008in exhaust .010in Though i use Zero (just free to revolve) inlet and just very slightly looser on the exhaust , have done for quite a while with no problems and much quieter..

or save

Do we need an electric start trials on a trials bike? and whats that on the header pipe a catalytic converter? very nice though..

you will need to press them in with a large vice, you will need to find a socket that is the same size as the outer dia as the bush, or some tubing but it needs to be decent wall thickness, then stick it all in the vice and squeeze.. 1 try and clean up the old chisel marks in the bore 2 make sure it is all square before applying force 3 try and get old stock silentblock bushes if you can, as the rubber in anything thats supplied in the last few years seems to be biodegradable it`s easier to put them back than take them out

Horrible things, i heat a nail or old screwdiver that will fit the rubber part until red hot then poke into the rubber, reheat and repeat until the rubber is all gone (that was the easy bit) then with junior hacksaw blade cut through the outer casing carefully on opposite sides , then small chisel the casing into the centre.

Just a little update which you may find usefull, Cumberland county mcc now have a website (not quite finished but it`s a start...) http://www.cumberlandcountymcc.co.uk just click on calendar we are having two 2 day trials this year both for P65 T/S and AC Mono`s , in June(real centenary) and September

ive ordered a 9 tooth front sprocket for a tlr 250 twin shock hope it fits !! any advise would be nice also any idea where i mite get spares from when i need them The front sprocket wont fit i`m afraid, the best you can do is a Beamish Suzuki 10 front and grind the centre out by about 1/2 a mil with a dremel fitted with a sanding drum, it`s easier then it sounds.. David silver for spares i have sent you a PM check your in box

page 19./20 No 41 is the smallest i can find: 15x28x7 No 43, gear selector using find tool ( pic of binoculars ) and the word "bearing" still looks a bit big to fit through the sump plug...

Looks like half a ball bearing support cage, imagine another one and then imagine balls filling the space between, looks pretty small if thats what it is, so you should be able to pin it down to which bearing is affected. hope i am wrong.

I have done it and it fits straight on, same jetting as per DT175, different float bowls and main jet set up slight change to throttle cable length , if i recall. Mine came of an earlier DT175 , pre monoshock and i had it fitted to a Fantic 240 before i fitted an OKO to that pro`s: slightly more top end cons: if you are very,very quick with the throttle at very low revs, you can catch it out. i just had one lying around so fitted it, having used it (and still am), would i say go and pay lots for a one? not really , not a great improvment . Opening the airbox up and having the timing spot on will give more benefit..

There are no cons (except over oiling) the oil IS the filter, the foam bit is a medium to hold the oil . the biggest cause of wear is the very, very small dust particals which will pass straight through a dry filter but get trapped amongst the oil you (should) have applied

Many thanks for that, interesting and entertaining translations whilst clicking around on the links i came across this: http://66.196.80.202/babelfish/translate_u...so%2fdebeso.htm

It is a step in the right direction. "if" you can get it closer to the gearbox sprocket all the better i used to trial a complete Serow (kick only, with valve lifter) and used from memory a 420 chain with a very small front sprocket (held with circlip) it may be worth your while to compare diameters of sprocket between 520 and 420 the smaller you go on the front the more it may help your compromise on picture 3 it looks like the rear wheel spindle is slightly higher than the line through the first two points, you should try and get the rear spindle to drop below the line when at rest, weight off but your proposed new swing arm pivot point will certainly help. good chain guide, and a very good spring on you chain tensioner! The CV carb will require a decent size air box to work correctly, but we will discuss that no doubt further down the road...

take off the petrol cap and check you have fuel, switch to reserve and try it with the cap off. change the plug. if no joy then take off the mudguard and make sure the air filter inlet is not obstructed, run engine. still no joy, remove carb make sure jets/passages are absolutely clean and float height is correct, refit carb/tank and run engine again before you replace air box/mudguard still no joy, have a cup of tea and a hobnob whilst it cools... Valve clearance Cold= 0.08-0.12 in, 0.10-0.14 ex

Firstly, you must accept that whatever you end up with will be a compromise (as 99.9%of trials bike frames are) the basic ideals are to get the swingarm to pivot on the gearbox sprocket (has been done) next best is to have the pivot horizontally as close to the gearbox sprocket centre as possible. this will give the chain the easiest time and be easiest to guide. the next point is where to put the pivot point vertically in relation to the gearbox centre this is more crucial than you might first think.. it is a very complex subject, but it is possible to make the rear wheel rise under power or drop under power , (drawing pins and scale paper swing arms will make this very clear) this can end up with the rear suspension fighting the torque reaction and making it feel wrong i am sure that with the scale model you will make, you will quickly understand the principle Anyway as a starter for 10... i have kept a few jottings from way back when as you are working on the bike on a stand , these figures will relate to your current position i ended up with, distance between gearbox centre and swingarm pivot around 75mm as for vertical placement, ypu will need to take a straight edge through the gearbox centre and your proposed swingarm placement centre, now go to the rear wheel spindle and look for a drop from this centre line to the rear wheel spindle of about 75mm this is on the stand, weight off the bike when you have this it will determine the approximate shock length the higher the swingarm pivot, the lower the ground clearance, everything affects everything else.. in my opinion the placement of the swing arm pivot is the most important decision on a trials bike if you can modify a frame like you have, you can make a small scale model of the problem once you have, it will become very clear what you have to do and what will be your best compromise Accept it will need extensive chain slipper fabrication to compensate for the compromise (as all modern manufactures have...)