mokwepa

I pressed the bearing out and in cold. Heat on aluminium is not advisable if the part takes strain (like stepping on it). Heat will change the properties and make it softer, causing it to flex more and bend easier. Its fine on things like clutch leavers as not too much force is usually applied. A brake lever is a different story. PS: I also have gas, lots of it first thing in the morning

Pleasure

What if you put the clip/link the otherway around so the clip is on the inside. Common on rev3s to have the clip on the inside to avoid it rubbing the brake leaver.

Just got back from a 2hr ride. My camp foam tire feels great. I checked the preasure now and its at 5psi, so another psi drop. Would like to know how thick the foam is when it settels in but no way to check untill I have to remove the tire. Oh well, no flats yet even though I tried

Im keen to try the tennis ball trick if my foam doesnt help. Wonder if adding a second bead lock where the valve normay goes would help?

Ignore the groove at the bottom of the lighter, I dont open that many beers

Nope Zippy, havent seen those before. Just so you can see what im up against. I had to reach out and grab a branch, thats how common they are. Its the bigger Bic.

Spelling isnt my strong point . I get paid to find animals

As macman says, I forgot to mention, masterlink must be on the inside. Std 520 chains are wider than a proper beta chain. I made that mistake already on my rev, ended up buying a beta chain. Expensive but more clearance for the brake. What I did shave on the old leaver was the little tab that contacts the stop bolt. My old leaver had a slight bend and would bottom out on the frame before I got the rear to lock up. I just shaved a mm or two and that solved that issue. However, new bearings, bush and lever solved all the issues. The revs lever has very little tolerance for bends.

Dont shave the lever, replace the bearing and the bush. Had exactly the same issue. When you step on the brake, you are putting a hell of a lot of preasure on the aluminium and bearing. Im quite sure the bearing is toast but im also sure you have a slight bend. Its a common rev issue, apparently. Change the bearing.

Hi I used a similar product in my bmx and I was disappointed. Our thorns are evil *******s on steriods, and they are everywhere. I need to take a pic of some so you guys can see what im talking about. No jokes, 99% of our vegetation here, has viscous thorns.

Thats if it works Its dropped by 1 psi but I think thats the foam settling in. Im expecting it to drop a touch more then stabilise.

Well I managed to get 2 layers of 10mm mattress foam in the tire with the tube. Just put 6 psi in and praying I havent pinched it. So far its looking good and it "feels" right when you give it a squeeze. The foam is VERY lite and I cant even feel a difference in weight. A thorn now needs to get through the tire and 20mm of foam (10mm im guessing with preasure in the tube) to get to the tube. Will keep you updated.

Ive never used them but ive heard allot about them. I must say im not keen on the idea of a flat cell in the tire should one get punctured. There is another product called a moose inner, like a dense pool noodle. With a moose,youre tires cconsistency stays the same all the way around.

Seems like some sort of liner is the way to go. I have some material that rubber ducks/dinghy s are made from, wonder how thorn risistant it is. Ill try poke a thorn through some tomorrow. Im liking the camp mattress liner idea sofar just depends how much 6psi will compress it. No point if the tube squashes the foam flat against the tire.

Do you mean a bicycle tube to hold bead and then the noodle? Sounds like a idea. Im actually thinking of using a closed cell foam camping mattress and cutting a strip to line the tire then still using the tube. A camp mattress is denser than a noodle.

Hi guys Im well and truly sick of flat tires. I have some of the coolest spots to ride on my doorstep but flats are becoming a major issue Issue is mainly with the front, rear is easy to plug and slime seems to be working. So my plan is to try jam a pool noodle in the front tire. Either just a noodle and no tube or split the noodle and use it between tube and tire, like a thick liner. What do you think? Might it work? Im desperate! !

It is a very snug fit, that was my problem. Ill do a V/notch on the next change. Thanks for the help.

@ anotherfive.....ok now I get it, you mean pulling the inner race towards the other bearing. Im such a dork though......with taking that lip off, I still dont have a lip to drift the bearing out. What a idiot, cant believe I missed that

It shouldnt side load the bearing as the top hat and the centre tube all hold the bearing sqaure when the axle nut is tightened. ?? My 07 rev3 was the exact same setup as my 13 evo. Its the only time or bike that ive come across with this setup hence the reason I thought long and hard as to why beta chose this design. Still not sure.

Hi guys Like me, I think allot of guys have struggled to remove wheel bearings from their Beta's due to the fact that there is no lip to drift the opposite bearing out. I see that there have been a few threads about it calling for bearing pullers, welding plates etc.......here is my way. This might not be a good idea however I did spend a fair bit of time thinking about it and I cannot see any problems that could occur. I would like to hear your oppinions though. 1: Remove wheel 2: Remove top hats from both sides. 3: Use a large drift against the centre tube lip (inside the bearing) to drift the opposite bearing out only about 2 - 3mm. 4: The centre tube can now be shifted out the way and the bearings can be drifted out as normal. MOD to make future removal easier: 5: Using a drift against the centre tube lip will often damage the lip and will not allow the axle to pass through. 6: I used a belt sander (use a file or sanding block) to remove the lip on one side (see diagram) 7: assemble as normal Next time your bearings need to be changed, you now have a small lip to drift one bearing out. The centre tube is still performing its job as a spacer between the bearings inner races. Should there be some issues that I possibly over looked, please inform me and disregard this post. Regards Dylan

Hi. Good choice taking up trials......you going to hate it at first but after a little practice, you will wish you had started sooner. You can obviously handle power (speedway) but dont let that fool you. At the beginning, you dont want all that power, accidentally, when there is a wall/tree stump etc right in front of you. As lineaway said, dont dismiss a slightly smaller cc bike to start with. You have tons to learn before you even think of going past half throttle. As to make, I dont think you could go wrong with any of the new bikes, however beta and gasgas seem to be the most popular and there are tons of guys that can give you great advice on both. Try them both if you can. I started on a rev 3 270 and am now on a evo 300, definitely not because I needed more grunt (just had a good opportunity to get a new bike). Most trials bikes, 200cc +, have more than enough power to scare the pooop out of you. Good luck and enjoy

Not being funny......at such a low pressure, why would you even bother putting air in? I run 4 psi in my back and this can vary by 1 psi between a cool morning and a hot midday. Now being funny:).......at least if you get a flat, you could just blow into the valve and you are all done

Haha, wish I could get a new bike every year . Still need to finish paying for this one. The pic doesnt show it well. Its not leaking bad at all but basically, the left side and carb side of the gasket is wet.The front and right side are bone dry. Nothing pi@@es me off more than a oil leak and due to my location, spares are not easy to get hold of at short notice. I only get to civilization every 2 months, so I try to catch potential problems before something major happens.

Thanks. It will be a while until im able to get a new one. Considering the bike is running fine, can I keep riding untill I get a new one?