slicktop

My biggest 'Pain' when swapping the base gasket was ensuring all the headbolts were at the correct torque. Since I did not remove the motor, my 1/4" torque wrench could not get on 2 of them and switching to a crows foot will give a different reading from a socket. So I had to go by 'feel' on those two, but the top seems good. I'm curious how others have torqued the head without removing the engine.

If all above is of no solution, then I would look at the gear selector pawl. There was a notice from Beta regarding issues and fix. It may be that the bike is not engaging? You said the clutch moved in and out, and thats about all it does except Grabs.

I heard a good one the other day regarding this. "Bend your knees"

I'm not sure on your model, but did you lose the little ball bearing in the clutch push rod passage?

I run Avgas 4:1 with Sunoco race (no ethanol). You can do the same with pump gas and it will boost the octane a bit and give a better blend and lower ethanol.

Does the oil need to be wet clutch type, and is dino or synthetic preferred?

I should have clarified that there was no flame shooting out the exhaust. But I can hardly explain what occured with out using the word 'fire'. A realistic example of the ferocity would be a pan of bacon grease burning so hot that it starts smoking black. The sounds of the oil cooking inside the muffler was loud crackles and pops and metal expanding rapidly. It took about five minutes to calm down and I was quite concerned at the time. My theory of why this happens in a trials bike vs. not being common in an enduro is the shape of the exspansion chamber.

I had a very hollow feeling in my stomach thinking the bike was toasted. After finding out the real issue I felt kinda foolish for pushing in the first place. Which brings up this question, if and when this occurs again does one just power on thru and burn the oil out quicker or stop and let things cool?

Even though Beta specs 100:1, I run 80:1 for safety. When I removed the top end there was small oil droplets on the head. The pipe was clean and I thought all was good. A couple of weeks later I decide to open it up a little on my dirt road and I started smoking bad, like a skeeter truck. I had never experienced that before and hit the kill button thinking my motor was fried. I was in disbelief as I listened the the bike sizzle and crackle like a pan of bacon. After it calmed down, I started pushing. For about a mile. I crossed a creek and got water in my boots, and then it was all uphill to the barn. So I decided to try to start it just to make it up the hill and it fired off and ran like a watch. It was then I learned about exhaust fires.

I have flipped the tophats and purchased the required disk for the complete range of adjustments but have not installed yet. The engagement is smoother with the washers flipped. I am going to be back into the clutch when I eventually get back home and will likely go to setting 6 just to guage the difference.

I am surprised you would discount my post as dribble. The example given is indeed plausible and has happened to a very accomplished rider as per his account to me (though admittedly on a gasser). The beta top end only requires the recommended mix 80.1 for proper lubrication. Anything more does more harm than good.

80:1 is recommended. And there is a reason to run that mix. Unburnt oil collects in the pipe and if the bike is just putted around for a while the build up can be substaintaul. When you do bring the temps up high enough, the oil catches on fire and you will think the bike has seen its last ride. It can burn so hot that the plastics around the pipe could melt and potentcially the airbox. If nothing melts, then the bike is probably gtg but if the mix is correct in the first place you can avoid this hair raising scenario.

I never ran the race clutch. The p.o. swapped out a new clutch pack for the race model to help lower the price to me. I would guess that the race model is the ticket for expert along with a Reiger. We both wound up with problems after the swap. Beta matches the gear on the clutch basket with the gear on the flywheel on the Evo. When my basket failed, Beta sent both basket and flywheel, I didn't change the flywheel and the gears failed to mesh. So I had to get both parts again. I know the 125 flywheel is different from the bigger models, so this might not apply to yours. BTW your vids are cool and looks like you are becoming a fine rider. Keep it up.

I purchased a steering wheel puller to remove the flywheel on a 300 Evo. It came with the correct bolts to thread in, but I purchased longer ones just in case but didn't need them. On the Evo, the flywheel gear is matched at the factory to the clutch basket. If changing one of the two, you must change them both to insure they mesh correctly.

Sorry Wrong topic. Was meant for Beta 250/270 flywheel post. Log-in redirect problem.

I believe the tool you need is called a steering wheel puller. It can bought at an auto parts store such as Napa and will come with the threaded bolts you need. I believe they are 8mm

Thats the bike you want! I see a few upgrades on it already.

Do you mean the Evo Sport, with knobs and hand guards, BYOB?

After going thru the clutch on a Evo a couple of times, I can suggest looking at the throw out bearing. The manual shows only one spacer but there may be two from the factory.

All the teeth were present and accounted for, with one extra plastic tooth off the waterpump. I would guess the pump tooth was knocked off by the carnage. For the amount of damage, things aren't that bad. I am learning this motor pretty good. At first I thought the piston had grenaded so off came the top end. It all looked perfect, so then I tore into the clutch and from just removing the plates, no damage was visable. So then off came the side cover and the basket. From here on out the only unfamilar parts will be the tranny and stator. This bike is very easy to wrench on and simple to understand. Parts should be here in a week.

When instaling the race clutch be sure to loctite the screws that replace the rivets on the basket or they could back out causing damge such as this.

The tophat washers are the key. They can be flipped. In addition, the plates can be rearrainged. Some settings require purchasing an another fiber plate to put in place of a steel plate for some of the settings. There is a total of six configs, and three of the settings may let in a bit of slippage in gears 4-6. Beta says thats no problem as long as you can afford plate replacement when they wear. I believe the latter settings will tame the power delivery.

I was surprised to learn of the six availible settings of the Evo clutch. What circumstances would warrant changing the configuration of the clutch? Is the #1 (stock) setting the best for beginners?