crazybond700

Have never used lights, but you might want to check if your regulator is working propperly?

Here is a picture.

I would suggest taking the shock out (so also remove the upper and lower mounting point). Than you can push it up and down and you should be able to get it in such an angle that there is no problem.

The 125cc has a different number as the rest of the range (ET70000CT-CGC-1 vs. ET70000CT-CGI-1) And if you look at http://www.thehellteam.com/ignition-stator-flywheel-kit-racing-15.html#prettyPhoto[media_gallery]/0/ It does seem the original 125. On the 14 model it has also a different code ET700001208 vs. ET700003013. So both difference in model year, and in engine size. My bed it is original on the 2015 model. Also I cannot find any weight with the three holes like in your picture. It also makes sence you want a ''original'' weight on it, being a 125cc bike.

Additional to everything said, you can make a restrictor on the throttle tube itself, if you wish. Its not ideal, but works perfectly if you are scrared by the bike. Its also a really good help to train, because often you overrev in grip needing situations. Offcoarse you need throttle control, but to train it helps. Also a good help if somebody new to the sport ever borrows your bike.

Here is a picture of a 14 http://buffalodream.smugmug.com/S3-225-Kit/i-gt3n74Q/0/L/150311%20223%20Kit%20Installed%20%2B%20Flywheel-L.jpg

Something is ''off''. What happens if you try to move the master more inwards? In my opinion you would want to have it quite far inwards. Its better for your levers in case of a drop, and you can hold the outside of the handlebars, and hold the lever with two or one finger.

You can reposition everything, so it might just need some adjustment. You can turn the throttle a bit, move the master cilinder a bit more inward, etc. A picture might make your problem more clear.

I would say yes, why not, but I havent tried. Couple of questions: Are the mounting holes the same? Is the way of attaching the brakeline the same?

I would, like suggested before, suggest higher octane fuel, or octane booster. Easy and cheap to try.

In my opinion you dont need it. It was not on mine (new), now I got a s3 one which only has O rings.

Would love to go and what an event the way you are doing. Are you going to belgium this year?

Left is 3.8mm right is 9.8mm http://www.splatshop.co.uk/gasgas-rear-wheel-spacer-7-5mm.html This one you mean?

They do need some wear in, first answer is spot on. However be carefull, new galfner pads might trow you over the handles straight away

Try 2bbikes.com

Great story, gives good impression of the team.

There are two types of almost all kill switches available. One that closes, and one that makes contact. Some bikes shut of by making connection with earth, others have a switch inbween a wire from cdi.

Yeah, a lot of forks are not filled with a determined amount of oil, but have to be set to a corect air chamber height. You can also tune the suspension a bit with it. THe correct height for my forks is 160mm, but yours could be different because its a 125.

Does the slave cylinder move freely? The cup inside gets worn over time and makes the clutch feel bad too. But it should not cause slipping. Is your rear tyre worn? Sound like you tried the right stuff, so it could be the discs are ''broken'' because of wrong oil, or water contamination. Or the round spring has lost its power.

Rev it and slip the clutch against a whall or something with all the brakes on.

You can take the cap of by pulling the spring in a bit, then there is a ??17mm?? nut. You can pull the spring down, put a key on it, and then it will be stuck so you can release the spring again and take the cap off. Than you can remove the cap and pull the spring off. By pulling the inner leg the leg will pull out the seal.(first the clip/spring under the dust seal!)

And you wont believe it, but if you know how to set it absolutely right, its can be even better! You need measuring clocks and some nice tools (and time). https://www.facebook.com/takanori.kitamura He is a pro in making cluthes spot on. https://www.facebook.com/2011trproduct/?fref=ts

The switch/sensor might be stuck? is it a floating type?

Those older forks are not that difficult and go just like mentioned above in the video. Might be some differences, but with some mechanical skills you should do just fine. I think those closed cartridges were 2007ish + Get ready to get dirty, remove the forks, undo the allen bolds (and tops), pump old oil out. Undo the dustseal and spring which is on top of the seal. Than pul the inner forks out and the seal will come with. Mount in reverse order. FIll (search for air chamber) and let the air out.

Its an edition? You can look on 2bbikes.com for parts for those old GG bikes (and also new ones) If it has black plastic ignition cover and a small looking engine its the newer pro, if its greish and a bit bigger engine its an non- pro bike. In 2002 they introduced a totally new model, but there was some overlap so I think this is the old type.