crazybond700

Like mentioned above we had the problem in our blue class (C class). This class has the most riders. We split it up ths year as experiment to a C and C+ class. C+ riders ride the C route, with some extra steps or really difficult turns or climbs. This can be done to every level class.

My answer is use the clutch on modern bikes! http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/60494-throttle-control/ This topic might give some insights aswell

A little water cam come out just after a revil. You often put too much in. If more comes out there is a problem, like a leaking headgasket, broken pump etc.

deep sound can also be bigend (hopefully not offcoarse)

Never knew this (did not need it) but good tip! Saw jim schnell made the same remark in another thread. Also the front gear on the crankshaft is stuck somethimes. There is suposed to be a tool for this aswel. On one of my bikes its stuck, havent got it loose yet.

I dont know where you are but 2bbikes.com has the rubbers on stock Front http://www.2bbikes.com/Webwinkel-Product-136112541/rubber-bodemplaat-voor.html rear http://www.2bbikes.com/Webwinkel-Product-136112561/rubber-bodemplaat-achter.html Chain http://www.2bbikes.com/Webwinkel-Product-136110391/ketting-geleider-beschermer-bodemplaat-frame.html imo the rubbers are really important to save your frame and engine mounts

It should get hot..... Cool water can actually get 100+ because of the pressure in the system before it boils.

New GG bikes arived in the netherlands already. Contacts and normal bikes.

Non rebuildable shock are actually like mentioned above often servicable. However they are not designed for it, so you need someone with expierence. I had my offroad bike shock done (I do my others myself). The shock does not have a valve to put pressure on it, so a valve was mounted on it by an expert.

Never had any problem with it. Maybe its because you are more of a trail rider?

Also you miss the bold (and rubber?) which should be in the third whole on the left side of the bike. Looking like

There is one like this on the front And one smaller underneath the rear mounting point. Here you can see them both

https://www.flickr.com/photos/124038165@N05/15176689253/in/album-72157649294784501/ Here is the one I know

I know what you mean. Those are honda replica engines in a new frame. Electric starter. Forgot the name though

Is the rubber in between? Use locking pliers on the bottom to prevent damage to the threads. Undo the bolds (dont forget the rubber chain guide bold, undo the front ones, and the plate will come out savely. Use a press to put it back in correct shape. Put it on some blocks to get the correct shape. Will cost a lot of tries. First it does not bent, if you go too far it bends too far. I always count the amount of pulls on the press. Eventually you can get it in good shape and put the rubbers back on and it should fit fine without any problem to get the bolds in.

I had the opposite, the previous owner welded the pegs up so they would face a little higher. But this caused issues with the kickstarter lever.

I think nobody buys expensive GG decals to fit them to a non GG bike to be hounest. Brands like s3 also sell for enduro bikes

A 04 even has got the old style bearings. Newer bikes (05 onwards) have got bearing ''packages''. Bearings and seals inside one unit. Oil, especially ATF needs regular replacement. How much you do is your own choice, have seen plenty of bikes running much more hours before replacement without any problems.

Got some made with my ''team'', they may have too many logo's for you though With long and short sleeves.

Did my 2008 after 300+ hours, and they could have done plenty more I guess (but I had everything loose). With mostly atf. Probably it depens on riding style, warmup, and a bit of luck aswell. I would not say its a standard problem. Luckaly they are easy to fix, so fix and ride! BROAP

Did some work to my ''good'' bike: New bearings in the link system. Around check of the bike Turned the rear tyre (it was already warm in the shet)

Dutch bicycle legs

Mine always starts second kick, always. (never the first though ). But the technique is really important, and I am massively strong in my feet.

Body position is also important for this. Probably you are holding youself on the bars, instead of using your feet. You can try an exercise by trying to use the feet only, and to use your fingers on the bar only, thump and fingers on the trottle, thump and finger on the clutch. Just to see if your body is correct. Often when people are tired they tend to grap the trottle, and use the clutch to compensate. But this is mainly because they pull towards the bars and knees towards the tank, sort of safe mode. I do not agree that the clutch should not be used (or less as possible). This is just a new style of riding, might also depend on what kind of trial your riding. But the new bikes just need more clutch, and are also designed for this purpose. I always learn beginners the clutch is their best (and newest) friend. Brakes they ''understand'' from bycycles (we are a cycle country ) but the clutch is normally something for your feet ( I teach a lot of non-moto riders).

What carb?