smarty156

Think I had a 320 once that was blue?

Kev - would it be possible to share on here please? Thanks.

In the last 15 years I've not had a tubeless tyre go down on its own so I can't believe that's the reason.

Here's a question, why do they put tubed front tyres on trials bikes when the rears are tubeless?

I didn't say frame but I meant plastics. They were the chrome/silver frames at that point.

That GP looks the business. Would love one of those. Any prices for a UK bike anywhere?

At one point you had a choice of red or blue. A GasGas should be predominantly red though IMHO. Looks a lot better.

So it looks like the blue one is an electric Contact with a different electric motor to the one based on the Pro Racing.

The Torrot bike just looks like a blue version with an add on seat and different "tank". The frame is the same as the GasGas one by the look of it. Although the casings are different too. If they can get the battery to last for long enough (so you don't have to worry about it running out on a long trial or have a spare battery) but still be as light as the petrol bike, with a clutch and engine braking like the petrol bike (probably recharging the battery while it's engine braking) then I would give it a try.

I'd like to know if he solved the problem too as I have a similar problem.

Yep, it was dead easy. Just laid the bike on its side, took old seal etc out and put new seal kit in. Pumped lever a few times then flipped the bike onto the opposite side to do the front brake master cylinder. Job done in 10 minutes. Sorted both problems (front brake that needed pumping between sections to get the lever back to where it should be and clutch that felt a bit slow to engage/sticky when dropping it quickly for big steps etc).

Perfect timing. I need to replace the m/c seal with a seal kit so guess I follow same procedure?

Amazing and lovely. Congratulations to both.

Ok. I've ordered a new pressure release valve so I'll see if that does the trick.

Here's a picture comparing the brake lever adjuster (which has very slight wear only) to the worn clutch lever adjuster.

Anyone?

Hi all. This still happens and I'd like to get to the bottom of it. Everything seems fine when riding. Once the bike cools off completely the water hose from the bottom of the radiator to the water pump collapses. If I open the radiator cap bolt the hose returns to normal. The water level is at the top of the radiator and never seems to change. What would cause this? I'm wondering if there's a blockage in the bottom of the radiator and when the pump is running it's not able to get the flow going and so generates a slight vacuum just between the radiator and water pump? I know people have said leave it but I'm worried eventually it will cause another problem. Any suggestions? Shall I flush the system, refill and see what it's like? Any other ideas? Thanks.

The adjuster on my clutch lever (S3 lever and adjusters) was wound right in but the clutch was still slightly dragging. Whatever I did couldn't fix it (checked plate thickness etc). It was only when I was showing someone that I suddenly thought the adjuster didn't look particularly long. Sure enough, unscrewed it from the lever and it was badly worn. Borrowed a new one from a friend and hey presto all is good again. So, if you have clutch adjustment issues, check the condition of your adjusters before pulling things apart! Just thought I'd share. If I knew how to add photos I would.

So glad I got the Airoh in this heat. It's brilliant. Riding between sections you can feel the air flowing through the lid.

Jim - I have a 2014 GasGas Pro 300 Racing. Everything in the cooling system seems fine when it's running but when the engine cools down after a day riding the radiator hose from the radiator to the water pump collapses. What would cause that and what do I need to do to solve it? If I undo the radiator filler bolt slightly then the hose goes back to normal. The hose is fine while the engine is hot, fan works ok etc.

Well the Airoh arrived today! Great service from Splatshop. Large was definitely the right size. Feels like a bicycle helmet compared to the Nau Power. Lots of vents and also channels inside the shell to vent hot air. Can't wait to try it on Sunday. I'll have to put the vent covers on if it's raining still though. In terms of fit, I'd say it feels a little like it's sat on top of my head whereas the Nau feels more like it's wrapped round my head. Looks like it's sitting ok though.

Well, there was only 1 large Airoh TRR Smart in red left anywhere online that I could see (it's the 2015 model, they don't do the Smart any more) so I've ordered it. Should arrive tomorrow so I'll let you know what I think. The Nau helmet I have is very nice but not vented so I get very hot in the warmer weather. Hoping the Airoh will solve this (as much as possible anyway). Couldn't try one anywhere so took a punt. Jonnyc21 -if it doesn't fit my head and your Hebo Zone 4 doesn't fit yours maybe we could swap? ? In terms of price, I would have wanted the Hebo Zone 4 Link and that was actually dearer than getting a 2015 Airoh TRR Smart (I don't like the look of any of the new Airoh TRRs - they don't do a red one).

If it's too low the tread will close up when you ride over something and effectively become a slick (push your thumbs into the middle of the rear tyre when there's hardly any pressure in and you'll see what I mean). On slippery tree roots you'd really notice too low pressure. I tend to run around 4.5psi rear in the dry, 4 in the wet and maybe down to 3.5 if it's really muddy but no lower. Front I tend to run 4.5 to 5 in the dry and 4.5 in the wet. Lower in the wet and the front will tend to wash out on turns.

Looking at getting an Airoh TRR or Hebo Zone 4. Head measures 58cm but currently have a Large Nau helmet (59-60cm) that fits perfectly. Should I get the Airoh or Hebo in Large too? How do the sizes compare to the Nau? Thanks.

You're right. If only I was shorter I would have been World Champion. So simple. Why did I not get my legs shortened earlier? What a stupid response.