faussy

Money. The SSDT doesnt carry the status around the world as some people think, and certainly not what it did in the past.

Going from a 10 to an 11 on the front would not make your 1st into 2nd, 2nd into 3rd etc, i would say it would kind of go half way. Yes your calculation is right, but 10% may feel more than 10%. Depends what kind terrain you are riding, if its hills and the like, making your gearing higher can help for those long climbs. I always found shercos had a slight more of a jump between its gears with the 5 speeds. Maybe you need to learn to ride in 3rd more? Anyways, whenever ive changed gearing ive always found going up or down 1 on the front is too big a jump, and instead going down or up 2 on the back to be a noticeable change but not wildly different. The problem is, buying a rear sprocket just to experiment with is a lot more expensive than a front. And altering the chain length is more likely You could also look up the internal gear sizes for each gear and just multiply the main to countershaft ratio against the final drive ratio (like you have already done) to calculate the overall gear ratio and see how your new second would relate to the old 2nd and old 3rd.. If its one venue you have went to and feel its wrong i wouldnt go rushing to change it, you may go somewhere else next week and it be spot on. Standard gearing is usually the best all round compromise, but if you feel changing the gearing would help your style or your terrain by all means. Sorry i couldnt give you a perfect error, gearing is mainly trial and error as is most things with bikes lol. Maybe you could repost your question in the sherco thread to see what other sherco owners are doing or maybe one will answer here. EDIT: Seen youve already down that. You say 3rd really shouldnt be needed... Theres no reason to shy away from 3rd! 2nd and 3rd are most peoples main gears, if it needs 3rd use it. Id also saying going down 1 tooth on the rear would not be enough, i doubt you would barely feel it.

But you implied he would not be able to cope with british conditions... If it isnt rain, can you explain to me what the difference between Spanish and British terrain is? Yes, and did you not look at his results at all the other rounds? And who mentioned Jorge?... the original poster was discussing Jeroni, who is a fair bit better than Jorge!! Saying the WTC isnt the be all and end all is one of the most naive things ive heard, have you watched the WTC? Have you seen the varied terrain? Did you watch czecho, did you watch sweden? And what makes you thing British trials are the be all and end all? Last time i watched trials, there were a lot of Spanish at the front. To say there are other riders than Dabill who would give Jeroni Fajardo a lesson in trials riding in britain is as silly as saying there are a lot of lesser riders in Spain who would give James Dabill a lesson on riding dry rocks. Thats the reason we have a WTC that visits different countries. Sure send Toni to my local practice ground with its ultra specific rocks and mud and ill give him a schooling on how to ride trials

Is that a serious statement?! Why do people always think that it never rains in spain?

I dont remember Dabill ever being ahead of Fajardo... Dont you mean why Casales is now ahead of Dabill??

Yamaha scorpa, no suspension linkages needing greased and bullet proof engine, probably the most reliable reasonably modern 2 stroke out there

Funny looking txt that

From cold, id say sometime between 5 and 10 minutes. Once warm id say you should have the fan coming on numerous times in 5 minute rides. Have you tried bypassing the thermostat to make sure it isnt the faulty part?

If you are confident it isnt the water pump and it isnt over filled, there are only two things it can be, clutch side crank seal, or centre crankcase gasket. You are drawing oil into the combustion chamber as well as pumping it out of the gearbox/clutch. Other than that, if unscrewing the filler cap solves your problem, why not drill a hole in it and attach a breather?

I think everything should swap over ok. I know 2002 to 2005 were all the same frame, but having never had an 01 i cant say for certain.

I think Ossa was already on dodgy ground way before it merged with gasgas, hence the merging. Personally id rather have an amal than the FI that was on the ossa. I find it rather funny that a few things that were tried on the jotagas (mainly the sided rear shock) have been dropped by the TRS. Those kind of things on the JTG and ossa have been tried numerous times before and failed. Theres a reason those things are "staid" and "old hat"

Sums it up perfectly im afraid to say. Most likely it will be in a different county, and of late it is every other year. It was a well enough organised event i have to say, it just seemed the advertisement and buildup let it down somewhat.

I am saying that, yes, isnt that a necessity? If a rider doesnt receive any promotion, how is a non rider/spectator supposed to? Its nice to know who you will be competing against and nicer still when potential spectators ask you who is riding and you can name someone outside of your own team. Surely a majority of the entries were received a long time before the event. Is that sarcasm or a potential benefit of a low number of spectators?

But it wasnt even promoted to the right people!! As a rider the first entry list i seen was on the day of the event. Surely you have to at least promote the event to the people that are attending. Ive ridden local trials advertised better, and with what turned out to be an impressive entry list deserved a lot more. ""Outside of the NE centre how many people are going to miss their local trial to drive x hours to watch the inter centre ?"" Thats a question nobody can answer, but if you dont advertise it then it is extremely easy to answer, NONE!

Ok, thanks for the info

Oil density = 0.9kg/l Petrol density = 0.74kg/l 500cc gearbox oil + 2.5 litre petrol = 0.45+1.85 = 2.3kg ~ 5lbs Does dry weight include radiator fluid?? Id say lead weights (wheel rim weights) stuck somewhere. PS Get the bathroom scales out

Any website or info regarding the up coming inter centre? An entry list or something?

Your clutch may be starting to drag a little. They are a lot harder to find neutral when there is a slight torque through the gearbox. A sharp tap with the heel when in first usually works

I would say a definite "NO!" on the "is straight steering balancing required for both wheel hops". Balancing with the front wheel straight for anything longer than a few seconds is rather hard, and in my opinion much harder than doing complete hops. My opinion on technique would be to try and compress front and back suspension simultaneously, through both the handlebars and footpegs, but to use the legs and hips to turn the bike while in the air. It is always easiest to perform a two wheel hop while moving, and even easier when you use a small obstacle (around 200mm) to kick the back wheel up. I hope this helps.

I dont quite follow you on this line... Foot position for me is exactly the same as my none braking foot, i never move my foot forward or backwards on the peg to reach the brake, but rather tilt my foot out to the side. Its sounds like you have to move your foot forward to use the rear brake is this right? Is that because you say you ride on the balls of your feet and cant reach the pedal? (Ive always only ridden on my arches) I run my brake pedal rather low in comparison to others, so that i can have my foot over it without having to bend my ankle that much to avoid dragging the brake. This may be hard to explain but sometimes when trick riding, its impossible to always have your foot over the rear brake, and you have to catch the initial looping out with the clutch and then be super quick with your foot to control it further. Consciously having your foot over the rear brake all the time can be rather awkward.

Luckily mine was a not that tight. Id suggest a little heat. Heat expands

You shouldnt have to disconnect the pedal. Once you loosen the lock nut the the threaded pin that goes into the master cylinder should rotate into the pedal, a pair of pointy pliers is needed to do this. Maybe its ceased in the threads of the pedal. PS to lower the pedal you will want to lower this pin, not raise it.

Would DEFINITELY!! recommend trying some on if you can before you buy! The fitting with jitsie can be a little unusual with tight forearms

I know you are maybe looking a direct phone number but i see jitsie or offroad action are now stocking tech forks in their catalogue http://issuu.com/offroadaction/docs/ora-catalog-update-201505-issuu/1

Long overdue