faussy

^^ Some good info there. If you want to keep your suspension plush do not get bushes or oil lite bushes, too much friction IMO.

^^ Nice wee setup there Only thing i can say is tyres can be a real disappointment, even big tractor ones. They need to at least be filled with soil, too flexible on their own.

Definitely agree with this, a mx or enduro bar angle would be too low and far back. Im 6'2 and ive a few friends the same height and none of us run risers.

We need a hole in the head more like!

I hate to go on about this, but those handlebars look like a set of alloy braced bars minus the brace. If they are indeed alloy, i would not be going very far with them!!!

Dont think we are criticising!! Agree on the handlebar statement, i once rode over a year with a set of bent handlebars and couldn't tell until someone else got onto my bike and said they were bent. Its extremely hard to tell sometimes. These do look noticeably bent though, optical illusion probably. Fork wise, the red capped fork is up through the top yoke more than the black capped fork.

I think you are describing something slightly different, but when the thermostats are on the way out they cause the fan to stutter and come on for brief periods at a time.

Yes, especially out of the box, remember Graham Jarvis used to ride with the standard Gaernes when everyone was wearing the purple oiled version. He said they gave him more protection. I have two 10 year old pair and the standard pair are still slightly stiffer.

Looks good. Is it just me, the picture, or are your handlebars seriously bent?

If the bottom hoses are cold while the top hose is hot you have a circulation issue

When you fitted the 2015 water pump did you check the system is circulating correctly? Air lock maybe? When the bike is warm, are the bottom hoses as hot as the top hose?? If the bike doesn't boil over and throw all the water out of the radiator, then its not really overheating. Is it doing this?

Seen him ride in person for the first time a month ago. Very impressed with his smoothness and style, very like James when he was in the youths. Not surprised he was the first to get the win. Only negative i can say about him and the other two lads he competes with is their consistency. One week they are amazing the next off the pace a little.

I imagine there are a lot of reasons, but in one simple sentence i think trials has changed in the 20 years ive been riding. Trials used to be hard and riders wanted a challenge, now trials are easy and riders want to win awards or feel if they go round clean they are getting better. Its a race to the bottom.

Its been a while since ive read such misinformation on carburettion. Maybe YOU should read a book on how carburettors work, and while you're at it Aristotle's Mechanica for an explanation on torque.

MX trousers will be more durable than trials, but i wouldnt say they have improved protection. MX trousers have no knee protection whatsoever so if you use them you will need some form of this underneath.

You mean smaller? For 6 to 9 thousand feet at similar temperature to sea level i think the corrections are about 0.92, so multiply your jet sizes by 0.92 and that roughly gives the sizes you will need. Dropping the needle a clip would be a good start.

And i run my mx'r at 20:1 and in 5 years have yet to have a piston ring stick. Each to their own.

Quite surprised by his comments and his analogy to skiing was rather poor i thought. At first i thought he was meaning a separation of stunt riding like urban trials or trials display shows, then i realised he was actually meaning competition trials.

Why go past the manufacturers recommendation of 50:1? 100:1 was never heard of in 98 and frankly you would have been laughed at then if you said you were running 100:1 or even 70:1. Just the same way you would have been laughed at in the 70s if you said you were running 50:1. On top of that you have a 17 year old bike with no doubt a worn piston and bore and you want to do road work. I wouldn't entertain anything less than 50:1, possibly a bit more given the bikes age. As you rightly say, the worst consequence of too much oil is a fouled plug (even though thats as much due to your carburation), too little and you have something expensive to fix. No, its means the same volume of a marginally thicker petrol

Agree with all of this.

Standard if think is 118 main, 36 pilot. Sounds more a low end knock, so maybe try your mixture screw out a half or full turn (dellorto mixture screws control fuel). And maybe check your needle clip. I think running a 38 pilot is relatively common Its gonna run richer in the summer, so id maybe give the carb a good clean before playing with jets. A drop of water in the floatbowl can block the pilot somewhat and make them run weak.

Dellorto carb i take it?

There are a few on here will be able to help you with the frame number, but a few pictures will probably be more beneficial just incase the engine and frame arent matched.

Good question. Depends what bit you want to know the year off! Its certainly not 2000, this is the next model that ran from 2001 to 2005, so more than 95% of the parts are interchangeable 2001 to 2005. Be best to check with a sherco dealer or MRS for correct interchangeability. Engine is 2001 or 2002, going by the ignition cover colour Outboard rear brake caliper is 2001 Rear exhaust is 2001 (no guard holes) Plastics look 2001, but tank maybe 2004 Frame looks 2004 2005 but im only going by the frame stickers being grey. Id say 2001, but again dont restirct yourself to just looking for 2001 bits, up to 2005 should be largely ok.

I would first test the AC voltage on the yellow wire entering the thermostat (if this is zero then you have a bad coil) If there is current there, bypass the thermostat with your shorting wire, and test the DC voltage leaving the rectifier.