Basically it applies to all bikes that have a poor finish on the tabs. I did it to my 2013 and my buddy's 2014. It's worth pulling the clutch pack and having a look at the tabs and the space between the friction pads.
We really need a better description. Is the brake stuck on or not actuating? There are rebuild kits for the rear master cylinder but you probably don't need one if there is no leakage. A misadjusted brake is the most likely problem but can't guess without a clearer description of the problem.
...and what have we learned? With the cover off there is a black plastic piece that holds the air filter in that has a screw in the front and a hole in the back for the cover screw. Both of these thread into brass inserts in the airbox. It's possible the rear insert got pulled out but unlikely.
Go here http://www.betamotor.com/system/attachments/0000/9255/evo2t_125-200-250-300_con_factory_my15_rev04.pdf and download the exploded diagrams. Then take the cover off and shoot a picture under so we can have some idea of your problem. My guess is it will be pretty obvious. Yes the flap on the fender sits under the rear edge of the airbox.
Rode an event yesterday and watched a couple of new riders on older Betas suffering from BCS (Beta Clutch Syndrome) as they snatched and jerked their way through the slow parts of a section. I'd forgotten just how hard it is to ride with the stock clutch.
My 2013 has popped out of 2nd a few times in sections. Less now than before but I'm also much more deliberate in my gear changes from worry it will do it again. I know that's no help.
Ok after working on my buddy's Rev4T for some time it starts and runs nice but I have the suspicion the electric fuel tap is not quite right. Has anyone replaced the automatic tap with a manual one and if so where was it sourced?
Looking at the parts manuals on the Beta site I think you're wrong. The 250 and 270 have one number for the crank and the 125 and 200 have another number. All have the same base gasket so a 250 cylinder will fit on a 125 case but the stroke is wrong. This also means the ignition timing and port timing is wrong. You might want to stick a dowel down the spark hole and measure the stroke yourself.
The 200s I've ridden have all been very sweet mellow bikes so you may be right.
Then again as Ron Commo always told my friends and I, "You don't need anything bigger than a 200." He always said this as we were picking up our 280s, 270s, or 300s"
But hey, we're idiots!
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/resistor_covers.pdf
Hmmm 1k, 5k or 10k
It won't make a difference in how fast the spark fires but it will determine peak current and spark duration. There's always warnings about using the wrong cap damaging the ignition but the only way I could see that happening is if the faster edge rate of the spark causes a kickback in the primary of the ignition coil. A 2 cent snubber diode to absorb the kickback takes care of the problem and I'm sure there's one already in the CDI.
Can you throw an Ohm meter on the stock cap and see what it's nominal value is?
Some of the plug caps have resistance in them to deal with non-resistor plugs. The idea of the resistor in series with the spark is to slow the rise time of the current to reduce radio frequency emissions. I don't know if the Ossa uses a resistive cap stock but it's worth finding out and replacing with one that matches the stock cap.
When I've been CotC for local events and as NETA prez and vice prez when a dispute arose I'd talk to the checker. If they understood the rule and were certain of what they saw, end of discussion.
It's why I and many others won't check a world round. If you hand me a rule book I read it and check accordingly. Usually not popular.
A couple, well many, years ago my buddies and I were checking a national and were accused of favoring local riders. When the rider in question's parental unit went to complain to the Clerk of the Course his response was simply, "Them?" the local guys just laughed when they heard. Apparently our reputations for checking exactly to the rules precede us.
The CDI has a uController in it. Basically a one chip computer. The advance is programmed into it. There are programming terminals once you remove the goop covering the CDI but you'd have to reverse engineer the software to change it.
My guess is you're probably barking up the wrong tree with ignition and should look at your jetting. You might also want to see if you have the white throttle tube (fast). Also Keihin carbs are notorious for water affecting the pilot circuit and require a disassembly and blow out with compressed air. I usually have to do this twice a year when my bike starts acting sluggish off the bottom.
I was thinking the crank volume might be different. The 200 originally started out as a bolt on for the 125 but they may all be using the same bottom end now.
At the last US national I checked we were told in the observer's meeting to not be too strict about the rules. One of the observers asked, "So what rules do you want us to ignore?
Ok this made me laugh. Reminds me of the guy looking at a Triumph in a dealership and asking where it will leak the most oil and being told, "Wherever you park it the longest."
That's not such an impossibility these days. You guys are arguing irrelevancies (20m-40m it just doesn't matter) but you do seem to enjoy it so
Carry On
