dan williams

You're probably in for a carb disassemble. Drain the carb and blow out all the orifaces, jets and internal passages. All it takes is a drop of water or fleck of dirt blocking a jet to make it run lousy. Go after the electrical connectors with WD-40 to displace any water and that includes the kill switch. The primary side of the ignition is around 400V so it doesn't take much to partially short it out. Fresh tank of gas just in case you contaminated what's in the tank. Inspect the plug wire to make sure there are no cracks leaking spark. As for the water in the engine itself it will dry out relatively quickly. The main problem that would worry me is if it was dirty water and carried dirt into the bearings of the lower end, connecting rod and piston/ring interface. Another thing that can be an issue is water blocking the exhaust though that will tend to clear itself rather quickly once the bike is started again. Good luck

No problem getting a thermoswitch. I think they've used the same one for 15 years. You'll have to call dealer for price. I suggest you get a MotionPro ratcheting spark plug wrench. Nice and thin and easy to get into the tiny space over the plug. Sounds like you still have a blocked pilot jet. You really must disassemble the whole carb and blow out all the passageways as well as the jets. If you do it with the carb assembled you just blow dirt in deeper. Carb cleaner is OK but make sure it's dry before assembly. In other words use the carb cleaner THEN blow out the carb with compressed air. Also look up the Billy Traynor carb setup article in these forums for how to set the floats on the Mikuni and how to keep it from piddling fuel all over the place.

It's common after four or five years on a set of rings for the wear to cause hard starting. Since it's so gradual you may think the bike runs fine but a set of rings will help the starting and restore that crispness to the bottom of the rev range. I've had several Betas that after four years got a new set of rings and the difference in starting and power were tremendous. I don't believe Montys are prone to the same stator probems as some other brands.

I like that Ryan says "the loss of Cody" Whether politically correct to preempt GasGas or not I still think it's a class move from Ryan.

"I had no problem filling it with a two gallon plastic gas can. You just have to take your time fill slowly and check often." Just like every other bike. Filling the Beta with a gas can virtually guarantees a spill so I don't think that's an issue. I'm sure the risk is there for gronking the gas tank but I wouldn't be too hasty. With the tank in back there's heavier metal then just the rear subframe/muffler combo. My guess is it's much stronger then the old setup and may actually prevent any of the muffler cracking problems. Looking forward to trying one if anybody lets me steal a ride.

Not even sure what jets are in my bike. I just bought a selection and tweaked until I was happy. Don't remember where I got them either. Sorry too much time on the computer and no time on the bike is turning my brain to mush.

Last time I started the Rev3 I had to put the blowtorch to the cylinder for a minute to heat it up before she'd fire and she's full of Engine Ice (brand name not...) coolant. You may not have had a freeze issue just too cold to properly vaporize fuel and seal compression rings.

Easy outs, The most misnamed tool in the box. Great 'til you snap one off in the hole. Then you have a hardened plug where you once had drillable steel.

Hmmm I don't know squat about the 4T wiring but you can never have too much ground so... On my 2T the whole switch cluster, lighting system, kill switch ground came through a lug bolted behind the headlight to the top triple clamp. Stupid idea since the surface treatment of the triple clamp makes it an insulator. I reasoned out that if that connection wasn't secure (and it wasn't) that the kill switch had to find ground through the lights. Unfortunately that meant the lights were "hot" through the kill switch. Bad situation. I took the big black wire that attached to the lug and ran it back down through the harness out at the bottom of the spaghetti tubing under the little plastic fuel filler cover and reattached the lug with solder and bolted it to the 10mm bolt on the frame tab that the regulator mounts to with a daub of silver paste (lithium grease and silver particles) used on CPU coolers. I also ran a second ground wire from that bolt to one of the ground connections of the ignition coil but that's probably overkill.

Do a Beta forum search for "epiphany" I think that's how it's spelled.

Not my bike. Friend's '01 that had been absolutely hammered. I won't go into that horror story. I still think the ground wire mod is absolutely essential to the longevity of the Beta ignition system.

Yes the disk should be slightly loose. They are called floating disks as the rotors are allowed to move to center in the caliper. The bolts are already tight. If you try to tighten them further to stop the rotor from moving they will strip. Sorry you had to bung one up to find that out.

Glad it's working for you. Now if I can get Andy to pin my ignition epiphany post/document from last year I'll only be one away from a hat trick!

Biggest problem with zap is not getting off the throttle. This is an explaination I posted to another forum in the US. Fundamental difference is what the rear wheel does. A double blip is used for getting over an obstacle by driving the rear wheel over it. Picture a log on the ground. You roll up and blip the throttle to lift the front wheel and place it onto the log. Then you blip the throttle again to drive the rear wheel into the log to gain traction. Rolling off the throttle removes driving power from the wheel while the rider bends his knees to unload the rear wheel to allow it to climb the obstacle. A zap is used to climb an obstacle higher then the wheelbase of the motorcycle. It does this by making the rear wheel hit the obstacle far above ground. When done correctly the zap will cause the rear wheel to contact the obstacle almost exactly where the front wheel made contact. It's a violent maneuver that happens extremely fast. The zap uses engine power and momentum to fully compress the suspension to store enough energy to launch the bike up the obstacle. Where the two get confused is the removal of power. The zap requires a burst of throttle to lift the front wheel to the desired height, shut off power to unload the suspension and then a second burst of power to drive the front end into the obstacle. This has two effects. First it causes the frame of the bike to rotate back very quickly by changing the vector of the front wheel from forward motion to upward motion. Second it compresses both suspensions storing tremendous energy. Here's where the two get confused and the main reason why zaps fail. After the front wheel hits the throttle is chopped (or the clutch is slipped if you're really, REALLY good). This unloads the rear suspension launching the, now rotating, bike to hit the obstacle with the rear wheel at a height that effectively shortens the obstacle to less then a wheelbase. The stored inertia in the engine completes the manuever walking the rear wheel the rest of the way up while the frame rotates forward. While all this is going on the rider is doing his share as well. At the first burst of throttle the rider crouches back to help lift the front wheel. Just before contact of the front wheel on the obstacle the rider essentially jumps forward and up. This helps load the suspension and places the rider in the correct position to complete the manuever. When it all works you'll feel the triple clamps hit you in the chest but before you know what happened you'll be on top of the obstacle, no wheel spin and no momentum and that's the real power of the technique. Most beginners to the technique keep the power on after the second burst. This causes the rear suspension to stay loaded and pile drive into the base of the obstacle causing the familiar bounceback.

Perhaps I should rephrase that. Apply the rules to everyone equally. Don't take the sport too seriously. It is possible to do both. I've fived everyone from Schriber to close friends riding novice class. Yes I've been yelled at and on occasion it's gotten under my skin but I don't take it personally and the riders know it's just the rules. They may be mad for the moment but they also know everyone else who puts a wheel in the section is equal and that's critical. This may be a case where the symptom is diagnosed but not the disease. It is imperative the trials masters and the officials back up the observers. If the observer is clear on the rules (which is the trialsmaster's job) and they make a judgment call but are overruled because the rider is "important" then the rules become pointless and observers will just do what they have to do to have a pleasant day. When I've thrown events I make it a point to have the materials and training for the observers to understand the rules and I make sure they understand they are the law in the section. Unless there is a clear misunderstanding of the rules I back up my observer's decisions. One thing that bugged me when I checked the US national in Vermont this year was the NATC rep saying at the checkers meeting not to be too much of a stickler for the rules because everyone was out for a fun time. Huh? One of the grizzled New England guys piped up and said, "So...... Which rules are we supposed to ignore then?" After a good laugh we all headed into the woods. Heh heh, New Englanders be lenient on the rules? I don't think so. We're known for being strict, but fair. We also got voted best national. If the riders know they can't get away with any shenanigans they won't try. But I stand by the public shaming as not an option. A DQ on the scoresheet speaks loud enough.

This site is indeed, "the biz" Yeah the cap is wedged in there pretty good. The vent tube at the top won't spin so you're going against that friction and sometimes the CDI unit and the regulator get in the way of the cap coming off. If it really won't move you might have to make sure the CDI is pushed forward on its mount.(it just sits in a rubber band that holds it to a flat metal tab on the frame) I also do the screwdriver trick to loosen it and then work at it to spin the cap off. Long necked skinny funnel for me to fill.

A lovely example of the necessity of enforcing rules. Let a few slide than more will do it until the situation becmes impossible. I would hope you have a rule about disqualification for those who modify cards and even better if you have some random check mechanism that will make it more risky. i.e. your card doesn't match the random check you're disqualified. There will be wailing and gnashing of teeth but you should also have a rule that the RIDER is responsible for the condition of his score card. If it's unreadable at the section exit get it fixed before you leave. If it smudges on the loop it be on your head. As for public humiliation don't do it. People are competitive but shame them and they may just leave or worse. Take their points away and they'll be mad but then they'll have something to prove. As an aside one of the local dirt bike forums here had a member who said some things that were untrue looking for a little attention. She was called on it and given some rather rough treatment. Just before Christmas she was found murdered. There are a lot of people that wish they could unsay what was said. More wish they had stepped in to help her get her life back on track. Now it's too late. Remember folks this is just a game. Maybe for twenty or thirty people it's a living but for the rest of us it's playtime. Make fair rules, enforce them evenly and don't take it too seriously.

Yeah the reeds will help. I have V-Force and I love how I can pull a gear higher on climbs and still snap the throttle and it jumps. Ignition advance will also add a bit more snap. This is where proper jetting is also critical. The Keihin tends to be very sensitive to weather so it may also take a bit of fiddlin with the mixture screw from day to day. I'd say jetting first then reeds. Ride it for a while to see if it really helps or just feels perkier but gets you in more trouble.

2000 was first year of the Rev3. Had upside down forks. Temp sending unit is on the radiator somewhere I just don't remember exact position. Same sending unit though so just look for big brass nut on radiator with wires coming out of it.

You have to be a little more specific as to "more power". More low end grunt? More explosive hit? Faster revving engine? Probably the best thing you can do is make sure the bike is jetted properly and that the carb hasn't got any dirt or water blocking any of the jet circuits. Keihins are extremely sensitive to water in the pilot circuit. You might also see if you got the white "fast" throttle tube as opposed to the black "slow" throttle. Makes a big difference, sometimes too big. Most modifications come at a cost somewhere else in the power range. For example; S3 short pipe = higher revs + more power at the top end but sacrifice grunt. High compression head = more "snap and generally more power throughout the range but must use high octane fuel and will run rougher at low RPM i.e. the 270 pop. Ignition advance = Same as high compression head + increased risk for overheating. Carbon fiber reeds = more low end grunt, minimal effect on top end. Flywheel reduction/removal = faster building revs but easier to lose traction in slippery terrain. Bike is jumpier and harder to control. More fatiguing. '08 250 probably has primary side flywheel. Not sure if it can be removed without replacing primary side gear set. Might find someone with a 270 who finds they want the flywheel to swap primary drive. But tell us what you want and maybe we can help.

Water is heavier then oil so any that sets in the low spots and doesn't emulsify will just stay there. I imagine each successive oil change will remove some more. There's almost always some residual water finds its way into the gearbox just from condensation alone. If the bike isn't going to be sitting for weeks/months but is in constant use then it really isn't going to do any harm as the working bits will get coated with oil after use. If the bike sits unused for a long time then I could see the residual water being an issue. One reason to start and put around in the winter once a week or so. Be careful as flushing with any kind of solvent could affect the seals and gaskets.

It's possible Beta just never understood this to be an issue. Remember we're dealing with a small manufacturer with limited resources. Also remember ALL the bikes have some foibles from Beta stators to GasGas transmissions and starters to Sherco shocks to Montesa wheels. As far as quality goes at this point they're all about the same. These are after all purebred racing machines from small companies that are struggling to survive. The fact that the bikes are as good as they are at this point is frankly amazing. It wasn't long ago a trials bike was a modified trail bike and before that a modified street bike. You get to ride the two-wheeled equivalent of a Lamborghini Countach with all of these machines. How cool is that. As I've said before the difference between a full on factory bike and the everyday bike you can buy from the dealer is 90% preparation and 10% fancy parts. Just consider this part of the 90% prep that makes your bike that much better than the next guys. "It's better to light a single candle than to curse the darkness." I'd rather this didn't turn into a whine and moan thread. As an engineer I see a need to fix something and get satisfaction from the exercise of analysis, design and testing necessary to solve a problem. There are engineers at each manufacturer who do the same. I'd rather help them then pick on them. I'm sure Beta isn't pleased with this thread even though in the long run it will be beneficial to them. Maybe now understanding the problem they will go back to the supplier and give them a, "What's it to ya?"

I agree you have to temper the response based on the class and terrain to some extent. It used to be in the world rounds riders watched the observer as much as the rider when another rider was in the section. Give the observers clear rules and don't tell them to ignore some of them. Riders will figure out who's lenient and who's a hardass. All part of the game. My decisions are not ironclad. In Vermont Eric Stolz argued that the point I called him for was invalid because his foot was still on the peg. I saw the toe dab but my view wasn't perfect so I couldn't deny the possibility that his heel was still on the peg and my co-observers couldn't confirm either. Point removed. By the same token Cody Webb came over the entrance log and his foot slipped off his peg for a touch. I saw it clearly and despite protest from Cody and Ryan I had clear visual and it was not up for debate. Ryan is such a pro. He has to question a point he feels he could get back but once I said I clearly saw a touch he immediately dropped it and stayed focussed on the rest of the section. He is truly the master of the mental game. A fact that I fear is lost on some young riders who only see his on-bike abilities. The stop/rollback rules are ridiculous. In a short space of time we've had; Rollback without dab=0 Rollback without dab (but not too far)=0 Rollback without dab=5 Rollback with dab (but not too far)=1 Rollback with dab (but not too far)=5 Stop without dab=0 Stop without dab=1 Stop without dab=5 Stop with dab=1 Stop with dab=2 Stop with dab=5 This is only in the 20 years I've been riding. Doesn't anyone else find this insanity? It's like the Gallagher routine. "You have flammable, inflammable, imflammable, uninflammable, non-flammable, non-inflammable, unimflammable, and non-uninflammable. Does it burn or not?

I was there! 1987 Bodines PA. From the angle of the video I was probably no more then 5 feet from Dale when he shot it. That section was pure evil. Nothing but broken slabs of shale piled on top of each other. I have to admit to a love of the way the ground shook under the 350 Merlin. You could tell one went by just from feel. The Dragonfly is just a work of art. Ground breaking the way the new Ossa is. Hopefully the Ossa will survive longer.

One of the funniest things I saw at the Vermont national was the observer briefing where the NATC rep was going over the rules and ended his talk with a comment not to be too strict because the riders were there to have fun. After a bunch of stunned looks between observers, who'd been studying the rulebook and discussing it for weeks, one experianced guy says, "So which rules are we supposed to ignore? Heh heh, Welcome to New England NATC rep. Which points out two things, 1. If the rule has to be explained it's not written properly. 2. If a rule is not followed why bother?