carlos

Got the Vforce reeds the other day, says v351C right on the box, 28mm round opening in the throat. Must say, they look like something Tamiya or Revell would make (cheap plastic!). Had to trim one piece of plastic off to fit, and of course the rubber pieces out off the manifold. Tried it in the driveway, seems nice and smooth, pulls real nice wheelies. Will get to try them out for real on Sunday.

I put the carbon tech reeds in my 2017 Factory Evo, didn't notice much difference. I did notice a stronger, quicker pull when i went to a #50 pilot (from the stock #48) I have just ordered the V351B V-force reeds from Moto-Tassineri, (with the softer 3P412M reeds installed) they will be here on Friday. Give me a week or so to install and evaluate them. Please note the 2017 Factory 250 Evo has a VERY soft powerband, my buddies stock 2016 250 Evo pulls much stronger than my bike.

Just ordered a V351B from Moto Tassinari, got them to swap out the 3P412H reeds for the softer 3P412M, they even gave me 10% off. I'll let you know how they work out on my 2017 Factory 250 Beta when they get here.

KTM 85cc is a different part#, also different distance between the four bolts, will not fit. Moto Tassinari does have some dimensions for the 351A and the 351B, but not for the 355. Might be worth contacting them and asking if they will sell the inner replaceable piece seperately. Don't know where your riding but my 250 has to rev up to 1/2 or 5/8 throttle and sometimes even 3/4 often enough to get my 225lb plus up our hill's and steep ridges!

Just noticed something else, the V-force3 reeds have an inner slip in piece, different between the 50cc (round 21.6mm) and the 65ss (oval 30mm) Does this inner piece just pop out? Is it hard plastic or resin? and do you think the smaller round one could be ground out ? I also notice that the newer KTM 50 and KTM 65cc (2009-20015) have an updated part# V355 both A and B. They show this model as using the same size gasket as the 351, and using the harder 3P412H reed, so it must also work. However they do not include the inner dimensions. Would have been nice if Moto Tassinari had answered your face-book inquiries, but i guess that they didn't sell enough trials parts to make it worth their while. I tried the Boyseen carbon reeds in my 2017 250cc Factory Beta, didn't notice much difference. Noticed a better improvement when i replaced the 48 pilot to a #50.

I noticed on the Moto Tassinari website that the KTM 65 also has a reed cage setup very similar, smaller throat diameter hole, but does use the softer reeds. I imagine using the stiffer reeds would not give you the quicker throttle response? They also make a reed cage set for a variety of 50cc European enduro engines, (Husky, Beta, Fantic, Aprillia, etc...) 351 B-S, does not give the inside throat size, but the outside bolt dimensions are very common. (Wouldn't be surprised if Girondeli made all the cylinders) What changes did you make to the carb to work with the V-force reeds?

Have you ever tried a Beta 300 SuperSmooth? That bike has the nicest power i have ever tried.

Yep, same problem on my 2013 300 2T, less likely to happen if i put it in first, rode a bit then snicked it into second. If i shifted from nuetral straight into second more likely to happen. My 2014 model did it less, and it has never happened on my 2017 250 2T.

I believe the silencer is different as well on the Super smooth model.

Have yet to take my 2017 Factory 250 clutch a part and do "the fix" yet. Happy with stock.

I'll settle for a shorter rear fender without the spear on the end made out of a less brittle plastic, and new stickers!

On Adventure Rider, under Trials section, click on the Beta thread, there's a whole article including part #s required. I believe it's going to cost you about 300$ for both parts.

I took out one of the thicker fiber clutch plate's (3mm) and replaced it with one of the thinner 2.7mm ones. Big difference, very easy to pull now. Haven't cooked a clutch yet and i can be hard with it in 3rd gear at times. It's mentioned in the Beta Clutch fix at the top of the index page.

Yep, bunch of stinkers, my 2017 Factory was the same. Do they really think your going to bring your bike back to the stealership because of a few screws?

I got an aftermarket one from a Suzuki DRZ 400 (same Mikuni carb). It fell out a few day's later. Back firing, flames (unburnt gas) coming out of the pipe, as long as i kept the revs high i was able to make it back to the truck. The crappy part was having to buy a complete rebuild kit to get the replacement spring and washer. Put the original mixture screw back in and never bothered adjusting it again. It's not like you need to adjust it that often.

My 2013 300 2t fell out of second a lot, i would all way's shift to first then second and ride around a bit before entering a section. If i shifted into second from neutral it had a better possibility of happening. It all way's happened soon after making the shift. Didn't seem to matter if it was a warm or cold gearbox. My 2014 3002t and my 2017 2502t have only done it once or twice. My 2016 3004T never.

I found the stock main jet size was way too small (stock is a 120), ended up running a 130, also noticed that the clip on the needle makes a huge difference. Mine get's a lot more low end grunt running the clip on it's 2nd lowest position. It's a 2016 300 4T Factory edition with the ti pipe.

Did you take the grounding bolt (under the rear fender) out and file off some of the paint, then apply some dielectric grease, worked for my 2017 Factory.

Skagit Power Sports in Burlington Wash. sells Gasgas and TRS. Garry Lawyver (one of the owners) competes as well. Might want to ask him about Ioco, Squamish, Brittania, and Whistler B.C. Trials heaven.

6 wt, that's what i thought, Maxima sells a 7 wt oil, mixed it 50/50 with 5 wt. Couldn't get my plastic sleeve out of the tube on the spring side, so just put in the same amount that came out.

I found that the needle position made a big difference to the low end grunt. Mine run's best with the clip almost to the bottom of the needle. (#130 Main jet)

What weight oil do you guy's use on the 2016 models?

Spark arrester required for U.S.A?

Why don't you do what i did, turn the 2 piece fender into a one piece, then zap tie it on so it pops off rather than break off. I'm still on my 2013 fender on my 2016 evo 3004T, and i crash a lot. Remove the five bolts that hold the fender and airbox lid to the bike. Put two screw's, sideways into the hole of the airbox lid, (this makes it a one piece unit) make sure to trim about 4-5 mm off the bottom of the hole so the fender fits flush. You will need to use a shorter, lower bolt for the rear of the plastic lid that holds the air filter in place. Carry a 6 zap ties in your gear bag. I use one zap tie on the front holes, and can get one zap tie thru the rear hole beside the muffler (4t and 2T) Airbox is too close to the frame to slip one thru on the other side. So in the end you have the 3 zap ties and under the fender the lip also helps hold it on. I also melt some hot glue into the top of the hole to prevent water dribbling in thru to the filter, (remember you had to cut the bottom of the airbox lid to go over that rear filter retaining bolt)

Flipped my 2016 Evo 300 4t upside down once in the bush's, took a while to get to it. Went to start it, backfired and blew the carb right out of the boot!