carlos

All modern trials bikes have very good suspension, both front and rear. With that said i have upgraded both of my Betas 2016 4T 300 and 2017 2T 250 with Ohlins rear shocks. After much fiddle farting around i have them working better (for me) than the stock shocks. I have tried the latest Vertigos, TRS, Beta 300SS(loved the motor,but rear end was too stiff) and just the other day a 2018 Monty 260 Repsol (setup was perfect, wouldn't touch a thing). I liked them all, but felt my bikes where not at any disadvantage. I used to change out a bike every year, or year and a half, don't feel i need to do that any more. As a clubman rider both you (and myself) would benefit from riding more, in different riding areas, with better riders rather than ourselves. Just watched a video of Dougie Lampkin riding his 94 model Beta, he's riding some pretty scary stuff, even back then. Run your new 2020 Beta for a while, fiddle with the forks a bit. Try some bikes with the tech forks, if you like them and feel you will get your moneys worth then go for it.

I had a 2001 model and a 2002 Beta 250s back when they where new, i remember upgrading the 2001 model to the newer 2002 airbox. I had to take a file and take out a small amount of the aluminum frame to fit the 2002 rear stays in.

Changing the head insert can make a huge difference as well, my 2017 Factory 250 2T was a dog until i put the red s3 insert into it, best 90$ i ever spent. You can also add an extra base gasket as well to make it softer.

I have the 2016 Factory 300 4T, changes To the newer ones include updated ecu (2019) expensive to update at 400$, newer throttle tube 2019 (got one, like it, 85$) they changed the oil pump(106 U.S.$ update) for less engine breaking sometime around 2018. There are numerous small updates to the fork and shock dampening through the years. And of course Bold New Graphics. I tried a 2019 Factory 3004t last year and yes the power was a little smoother than my bike, I liked mine better because i'm running an Ohlins shock that has been nicely setup over the years. Though i love my 4T for trail riding and training, when ever i jump onto my 2017 250 2T i can flick it around so much better and i am more competitive on a 2T. Recently tried a 2020 2T 300 super-smooth, and wow, what a bike, think that will be my next Beta. Long story shortened, if it's your first trials bike and it has low hours, well kept, good price then jump on it, but the newer the better. If you have never ridden a 4 stroke you may not like it, took me a few years to get used to it and actually like it.

Not sure, but it works better for me than the what came stock on the 2016 4T. I also installed a 43T sprocket at the same time, let's me use 3rd gear more.

You will have to buy the whole assembly, there are 3 parts that are different between the standard (older) and newer throttle. I bought the newer assembly for my 2016 Factory 300 4t and just love the bike now. I think i paid around 85$ CDN off my local dealer, had to be special order.

Yes that's what i thought too, funny i don't mind going to the range and blowing off 40$ worth of ammo in 2 or 3 hours, but having to spend 45$ on some bearings when 10 cents of grease and a few minutes to put it in p****s me off! With four motorcycles to look after i find that i unfortunately notice the broken or worn out part just as i'm just about to leave on my ride!

Interesting article b40rt on over greasing bearings, some of the negatives pertaining to high spinning loads and bearings near electrical components. My own observations of owning dirt bikes for 45 of my 60 years is if you run stock bearings in muddy wet conditions they generally last 6 - 12 months before you have to push them out and replace them (10 to 16 weeks on the old one sided wheel bearings that came on 1980s Honda CR250s). I Peeled the seal in May 2016 and added a smoochload, resealed them, and they where perfect when i looked at them last week on my 2016 Beta 4T Evo, which i ride usually once a week in the wet west coast rain forest's where i live. If you are lucky enough to live in a sunny climate and only have to dust off your bike once and a while I'm sure your wheel bearings will last much longer. Maybe as a good experiment just do the right side rear and front wheel bearings on your bike, leave the left side alone, then you will have a more accurate results to judge by.

Sidis are the best but fit skinny feet, Gaernes are the most comfortable but have very limited protection and are no longer as good as they used to be 15 years ago. I have some Wulfsports that are a good compromise between price and protection. Main thing is to try them on first, as they all fit differently. Unfortunately trials boots take a beating on the steel pegs and the soles usually get worn thru way before the rest of the boot gets worn out.

I'm only 6'4" (193 cm) and i have to run higher bars on my Beta's, used to put 3/4 inch shims underneath the bars but that was a pain when going from different manufacturers every other year. If i run stock bars my lower back and neck bother me to much after half an hour of riding, but i'm old (60).

The trick is to very carefully peel the outer seal off with a small pick, when the bike (or bearings) are brand new, then put in a bunch more wheel bearing grease, then put the seal carefully back on. Stock bearings from the factory have only a minimum amount in them (maybe 40%) of what can be put in there. Still on the original wheelbearings on my 2016 and 2017 models, and i subject my bikes to a lot of mud and water riding in the Pacific rain forests.

The two Inner brass bushings may need replacing as well, those will have to be ordered from Beta or you can use the Jitsie ones, there cheaper but need just a touch of filling to make them fit perfect. Jitsie part # Jl118-tcs 01.004 Top bushing and Ji118-tcs 01.003 inner bottom. You'll find out for sure when you take them apart.

Take the cylinder off and add another thicker base gasket, will lower the compression and make for a more tractable bike. The 351c reeds are a bit pricey but makes for smoother bottom to mid power.

Just finished doing the valves on my 2016 300. After 200 hours I was getting a little bit more noise than i thought it should have. Took about 3-4 hours, but i'm slow and methodical. One exhaust was tight, one a touch loose, one intake was perfect, the other a little loose. Quieted the bike down nicely, starts good to. Only glitch was when riding it around in the driveway the fan didn't come on, when i pulled the engine down i had unhooked the fan connection, nudged it back in and all is good. Thank you Billy Traynor for the good advice.

I believe the Factory 13 and Factory 17 had slightly longer shocks. Different aluminum cam as well. The upper and lower frame mounts are all the same on all EVO models.

Actually got to ride a 2018 Factory 4T yesterday, and yes there was some difference in engine braking, thanks for the info. Not sure if i will mod it yet, got a ****load of other house hold work to do first.

Very interesting, never new they had this. Part numbers? Price? how easy was the install?

I put one thinner clutch plate in my 2016 300 4T Factory over 2 years ago. It made the clutch pull a little easier, it's still running fine, and i am hard on my 4t, often using third gear in tight spots.

My 2013 300 2T did, not my 2014 300 2T, nor my 2017 250 2T. So maybe it has been dealt with from the factory.

Ride trials sections, trail ride, stop and check the bolts and for leaks, don't wonder to far from the truck on your first ride. My 2017 Factory 250 started to overheat. Turned out it wasn't properly ground from the Factory. Just had to remove some more red paint underneath the ground wire. Don't scream the p*** out of it down a logging road you should be fine. Want to keep it longer than one winter? Then you will want to take the linkage apart and regrease it with a good brand marine grease. Don't forget the headset and to peel back the rubber seals on the wheel bearings and fill em up. On 2 of the last 3 brand new Beta's i have bought new have had broken linkage bushings with just a few hours use on them. I also put teflon tape under the lever perches so they will always be able to give way in the event of a crash. I also cut off half of my shifter knob so it has less to grab when sliding down the rocks. Spokes have been pretty good theses last few years, just keep an eye one them when new. The two very front bolts that hold the skidplate to the frame come loose sometimes, blue locktite them. Fenders are crap, buy a gasgas front fender and brace, put the stocker away on the shelf for when you sell the bike. For the rear fender i remove all the bolts, and turn it into a one piece setup by putting two wood screws into the side of the airbox lid (underneath into the hole that holds the airbox cover to the airbox) You have to trim a little off the hole so the fender will fit flush. And also find a round-nosed bolt to replace the bolt that holds the airfilter secure. Then i use two zap-straps to hold the fender on. (always carry extra zap-straps in your bumbag). Have not done the Beta clutch mod on my 2017 250, just don't feel it's needed as it was in the past. Other than the plastics Beta's are pretty reliable and should give you many hours of fun. Enjoy.

So i spent a few hours on the Beta 250 2T (with the recently installed V-Force v351C reedblock) today, the changes i made seemed to work well, pulls smooth and even, then after about 15 minutes into the ride i would loose power, would surge and seemed to be running out of gas, barely idle, stalled a few times after jumping up a ledge. Adjusted the air screw to two and a half turns. Then it seemed to clear itself up, didn't have any trouble after that. Water in my gas perhaps?

V351C - Raised the clip on the needle yesterday, adjusted the air screw, seems to be running a little crisper, pulling better up and down the driveway. Find out on the weekend how it works out in the field.

Got out today on my 250 with the new v-force reeds installed, bike does pull stronger from idle to mid range, but the Boyseen reeds pulled harder from mid to top end. Still feels a little rich, will need to play with it a little more. Theses reeds would further smooth out a 300. As comparison i even rode my friends stock 2016 250 Evo. It still felt stronger than my 2017 factory. Today was full traction everywhere, so you couldn't go wrong. On those wet muddy, slippery off cambers root's, my 2017 Factory will find grip better. Riding on grippy dry rocks, big screaming uphills, you would like the Boyseen's better on a 250. You would probably get more value for your dollars playing with flywheel weights.

Got to try the v351c v-force reeds out today, pulls a little smoother and stronger off idle up to mid, but not as strong as the boyseen reeds from mid to top end. Still feels too rich, will have to play with it some more. Pulls the nicest wheelies. I can see why you would like these reeds on a 300.

Got em, says V351C right on the box. They look awefully cheap and plasticy! Will try them out on Sunday.