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If the bike was running good before you took the carb apart, then you have obviously done something wrong. One of your jets is blocked? Take the jets out and look thru them for a blockage. Float's properly set?
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I have put an Ohlins on the rear of my 2016 Factory, (after a rebuild it works pretty good, last half of the compression dampening was set 20% harder, at 245 pounds with gear i was bottoming too harsh, even with the heaviest spring) love the forks the way they are. The forks on the 2017 Factory not as good as the 2016s, but i haven't got around to playing with it. I would rather ride than didile with my knobs(suspension)!
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Happy with my front forks, Techs are a little better. Used to have the Marzoochies, they where crap.
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Beta should seriously look at putting the Reiger or Ohlins rear shock on the Factory model, now that would be a nice upgrade! I tried my friends new 2018 GG 250 with the Ohlins shock the other day, loved it, very nice. He said it worked better than the Rieger that came on his 2014 GG.
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No changes here, nice to know my 2016 4T 300 and my 2017 2T 250 don't need to be upgraded!
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You can make the bike easier to ride buy using the slow (black) throttle tube. I believe most British bikes came with a heavier flywheel. Can alway's add an extra gasket to the bottom of the barrel, lowering the compression. Ideally a 200cc Beta is the best bike out there for a newbie.
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I have heard of one nearly new 2016 300 2t blowing a 2 inch hole out of the top of the engine case on the right side, just under the carb. In that case the dealer sent the engine back to Beta and a new replacement motor was sent back to dealer. Never heard what caused the problem. This is the only one ever heard about out of hundreds of Beta trials bikes sold in Canada over the last twenty or more years.
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Don't forget your front and rear wheel bearings, if you don't peel the outer rubber cover off and add some grease they won't last 9 months.
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Can't go wrong with either one, newer is better, less hours? Smaller, lighter rider, or no experience would prefer the 250. Put it on a stand and feel how much play in the rear linkage and the wheel bearings, headstock. Any chips or scratches in the front forks. Leaking seals. Does it need a new chain and sprockets, any loose spokes?
I all way's look at who i'm buying from. Is his garage neat and tidy? does he look after his stuff. Or is there crap and garbage laying everywhere?
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Why wouldn't you want to take it all apart? Everything has to be greased anyways. Not a lot of grease in there to begin with, and on two of my new Betas i found that the bushings/washers had broken a portion off, thus would have let in water in. While your at it (and you have the rear wheel off) get a couple of little picks and carefully remove the outer seal of the wheel bearings and grease them too! Unless your one of those guy's who gets a new bike every year!
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The Slovenian made black box's where terrible on the 02 and 03 models, cheap though. I know a guy who used to always carry one with him on a long trail ride they where that bad.
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V351C are still available from some suppliers, but they are very expensive, 250$ compared to 60$ for the boyseen carbon-tech. Are they really worth the difference?
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Hi Dan, I see that you had installed Vforce carbon reeds to your 2013 model, is that the full cage and double reed assembly? (if so what part#) or just the carbon reeds like boyseen sells? Thanks.
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When you have the carb apart, take out the float bowl pin (if it hasn't already fallen on the floor!) hold it on a vice and smack one end of the pin. Not to much, just enough so that when you put the pin back in it will stay in place and not move back and forth freely.
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I had the same problem on my 2016 4t, i just took a file and removed a few millimeters off the front of the hole that the axle slides in the swingarm. Bike looks good with the gold D.I.D. chain.
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Alway's
wondered about the Bosi S curve pipe, what kind of power will the pipe make on a 250cc? Anyone out there ever try one or know one that has?
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Run an extra base gasket, it will lower the compression.
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Mobile 1 0w-40, will have give it a try. It was only 3 degrees when we went for a ride yesterday. I've got 10 liters of it sitting in the garage for my Toyota.
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I've had a number of 300s, both 4t and 2t. Went back to a 250 for it's softer power. Would have got the 300ss if i had tried it first. Depending on you weight and experience, the 200 could very easily be the best bike for you.
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I have the 2016 factory 300 4t. Lot's of power, once the jetting is figured out (replaced stock 120 main with a 127.5) bike starts good. Put an Ohlin on the rear, once it was revalved it works as good as the stock shock! Also have the 2017 Factory 250 2t. love it too. If they're the same price, get the Factory model.
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Try a 127.5 main jet, clip on middle position. My 2016 Factory 300 would stall on full throttle going up a sharp incline with the stock 120 main jet
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I run stock gearing on my 2016 300 4t, but feel there is a pretty big jump from 2nd to 3rd. But i feel the same way about my 2017 250 2t as well. May have to try the 10 tooth one day.
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I find the oil gets dirty quickly. If i abuse the clutch the oil turns dark after only a few rides. I don't want that dirty oil running thru an engine i want to keep for a long while. Just recently tried Rotella T 15wt-40. Worked just fine. Cheap as dirt. Subaru owners prefer it for there turbo engines.
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Every 3rd or 4th ride for oil, 6th ride for the filter.
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Cut a broomstick to the length of your handlebars. Drill a hole thru the middle. Put a 3' rope thru the hole. Attach a 3 pound weight to the end of the rope. Now role it up and down 10 times. As you get stronger add more weight. Do it 3 times a week. No more arm pump. (Do deep knee squats on a wobble board at the same time.)
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