carlos

Are you all ready using a slow throttle? You can always add another base gasket to the barrel.

Make sure you grease the swingarm bushings, headset, dogbones, and add some high quality grease to the wheel bearings. Beta, like all manufactures, only put in a minimal amount.

Get the newest bike you can afford, I have the Factory additions because i can afford them, but in reality you are just buying bling.

I'm lucky enough to own both a 4t, Beta 300 2016, and just recently a 2t 2017 factory Beta 250. Having ridden Beta 3002ts before that. I found the 4t to be a hand full when i first got it in May 2016. After a while i got used to it, and i do like it. Power does come on instantly, and when you shut it off the power impulses stop immediatly. I found that the 300 2t was too powerful, and at times would break loose. So i went to a 250cc 2t in 2017. The factory edition is very soft. You rev it up and it feels it takes 1/2 a second to go anywhere, but when you shut it off at the top of a rock it still is pulling. I weigh 101 Kg, (224 LBs) without gear, advanced rider. I have no problem getting up any of the steep pitches that it can do on my 300s. If you need serious power you just rev it out and feed out the clutch. Switching back and forth is probably not the best way to go as far as being perfect on the one machine. I do find that i am more competitive on a 2t. Right now we are in the dry summer here on the West Coast of British Columbia and i like to use the new Dunlop GP803 on both bikes. They're cheap and long lasting. In the winter i prefer a Michelin x-11, set at 3 LBs, 4 LBs on the x- lite. Haven't had much luck with the x-lites. I often rip out the sidewall. Have to agree with dav cc, the average Joe does not need a whole lot of power, and would probably do better on a smaller machine.

All ways use the red hot start button when the bike is warm. Even then if i kick it twice and it does not fire, i will have to hold the throttle wide open as well as the red button on as i kick it.

Sounds about right, my 2016 factory 300 had serious starvation problems until i ran the bigger main jet.

Try to get a ride on the new SS300 Beta, awesome power-band. Would have gone for that bike if i hadn't all ready ordered the Factory 250.

4th ride on my 2017 Factory 250, a small issue with the rear brake binding on first ride, minor adjustment. Then the fan stopped working, just scraped some more red paint off the ground and all is good. Clutch is very good right out of the box, really don't feel i need to do the Beta fix on this clutch. ( This is my 8th Beta over 19 years of riding trials) Shifting is very good also. The 250 has a very flat power band, which is what i wanted. I am amazed at what i can pull off with it. I have had 300s in the past but all ways had to dummy them down. Dry out now, should work even better in the wet. At 6'4" I weigh 220 plus gear, i am able to get up anything i could do on my 300s. I feel the 250 gives me more setup time, more grip out of a greasy hole. Where as the 300s would sometimes slip and spin, especially in the wet. I all way's turn the rear fender and airbox cover into a one piece unit by putting two wood screws into the under side of the airbox cover. Trim a little off the bottom of the airbox lid hole, then fill the top with hot glue gun. Then not using any of the bolts and using 2 zip ties at the front holes to hold the fender on. Rear fender will pop off rather than bend, crack, then break. Carry some extra zip ties in your bum bag. Still using my 2013 fender on my 2016 4t. Front fenders are easy to break too, i have the modified the old style aluminum bracket from a REV model with the old REV fender attached, the black fenders seem to be a little more flexy compared to the red ones. Save the original for when you sell the bike. I believe Gasgas and Montesa front fender brackets and fenders will also work. Other than the plastic they are very good bikes, the new TRS is getting a lot of good reviews also. I was very impressed with their 280cc. It was a close call. I went with the Beta for the long term reliability, and good parts supply.

Love my 250 Factory Beta, I'm 6'4", 225 LBs. I've had a number of 300s, always end up powering them down with an extra base gasket and a flywheel weight. Decided on a 250 for the slippery off cambers would be the better choice. I all ways felt that the 300s pushed me around and would sometimes get away from me. With the 250 i feel i'm the boss and can push it a bit more. Did really like the new 2017 Beta 300ss, and may have bought one if i hadn't all ready ordered the Factory 250. I also have a 2016 300 4T. You can never have to many bikes!

Took my brand new 2017 Evo 250 Factory edition for it's first ride yesterday, two hours into the ride the rear brake seized on. Not enough play in the rear brake, had to remove the clevis, zip tie the pin to the rear brake lever. Worked good after that. Will adjust it today. One hour later my fan was not working! Ended up taking off the wiring harness and disconnect and reconnected the plugs, then scrapping off some more red frame paint at the ground connection. Worked fine after that for the rest of the day.

Save your money, until the stocker blows, if you ever need a new one, look at the Rieger shock, more money but a much better shock. Wasn't really impressed with the Ohlin shock that i put on my 2014 Beta Evo 300, 2t. Had it rebuilt for 180$ and it is working better on my 2016 300, 4T. I felt the shock was too soft on compression dampening and had it made a little stiffer. If you have just started riding trials i seriously doubt it will help you by putting a large amount of money into a rear shock. Just ride as much as you can. Maybe do a trials school.

I have never used 1st gear on a Beta, too easy to break loose and loose traction. I keep a high idle, especially during competition. Don't want to stall as i am all way's in 2nd or 3rd gear. I never put on an hour meter, as the total hours might scare off potential sales when i go to re-sell it. With a brand new bike i would suggest that you pull the swingarm off and apply a good quality grease to the swingarm bushings. Keep an eye on the steering head as well. Gently remove the outer seal cover and apply a good wheel bearing grease to the front and rear wheel bearings. There is never enough in there to begin with. Needless to say also redo the linkage bearings at the same time. Keep an eye on the slack and stay on top of it. Linkage bushings usually need to be done 2 or 3 times a year. Buy an extra stock air filter, keep it ready to go, change it out as needed. I run a high quality gearbox oil (Motul) and change it often, usually every fourth ride. Engine oil (85 - 1). Teflon tape under the brake and clutch perches as your going to drop your first bike often. Keep them semi tight and they should move easily rather than break. I also run the aluminum end nobs, saves on grips and should save the throttle from pinning full open when you drop it on the right side. Get a good bumbag, keep a few tools in it, spare brake and clutch lever. Try both the slow and fast throttle, keep the one spare in your bumbag. All way's carry an extra lire of premix with you on a trail ride, could make the difference from a long walk home in the dark. Enjoy, other than the ****ty plastic fender's you have one of the most reliable bikes out there.

What is your fuel mixture screw set at? Mine fell out on the trail once, ran like a bag of crap all the way back to the truck. Think mine was left at 2 1/4. Once set that should be the end of it. The larger 130 main jet was the key to getting mine to run properly.

What is your fuel mixture screw set at? Mine fell out on the trail once, ran like a bag of crap all the way back to the truck.

The 130 Main jet cured a lag that my 2016 Factory 300 had, needle in the middle position. Stock pilot jet. Runs and starts perfect now.

D803GP, Love em, lasts way longer than a Michelin. Michelin still works a little better on the real cold snowy day's.

Sticking throttle cable?

Yep, think he won the world Championships first time he moved up to a Honda, eh, i mean Montesa.

I don't think the factory gives a hoot about putting a lot of money into winning, the bikes sell themselves. Unless you have Bou, your not going to win.

Yep shoulda been a five. But with that said i didn't see it until i replayed the tape, i was watching his feet.

Thanks.

Thickness is all that is needed, thanks.

Nice job, how about giving us the measurements for the spacers, in case we ever have to do it?

At your weight and riding experience a 200 Beta would be perfect. I weigh 101 kg and have had 4 300cc bikes over the last 7 years. I will be going back to a 250cc Beta because i feel that it will work perfect for me. I have tried a 2013 200cc. I was amazed at how well it performed. The newer ones are even better.

Have to agree with Oni nou, making the bike as comfortable as possible would be the first thing i ever do to my bike. At 6'4'' i have to raise the bars with a 3/4'' spacer, or run higher bars. My neck and lower back just can't take the stock angle for very long. I'm 57 years old, ex-motocrosser, injured my neck in a bicycle/car accident. Comfort comes first. Would lower bars work better, probably, but it is of little value if your back aches after 20 minutes of riding and you have to call it a day.