stork955

Gday, if the points have melted you have the wrong type of coil on the bike. You need one for a standard magneto, you have probably fitted one designed for CDI which has a lower primary resistance. Also, fit a new condenser as they can sometimes cause burning on the contact faces. Check the source coil resistance as Christopher mentioned above and there is nothing else to do. Leave the plug, it sounds perfect, as does your carb settings. You always take notice of the ceramic, the rest has no bearing on the plug reading. Hope this helps, Cheers, Stork

Gday Jack, I have one for a 99 Techno. You may find one by a web search or PM me and I can send it to you. Cheers, Stork

Gday, test the fan with a 12 volt battery. Hooking the stator directly puts anything up to 200 volts AC into it... Cheers, Stork

Gday, just found these in my Beta folder. Measured directly from my running 2010. Source Coil Blue and Red resistance - 316 ohms. No circuit to ground. output at kickover - 25 V AC Trigger Coil White and Black resistance - 336 ohms. No ground. output at Kickover - 0.3 v AC Coil Secondary measured from plug cap to ground Resistance - 10.17 K Ohms Coil Primary White/red trace Measured between CDI connector and ground. Resistance 0.4 ohms Ground Brown 0 ohms circuit to ground. Cheers, Stork

Gday, search back through this forum, I posted some specs for my EVO ignition about 1 year ago. These will give you a starting point to work from. PS - dont think that stator failures are restricted to Beta's - other bikes have them as well, they just dont talk about them as much... :-) Cheers, Stork

Gday, that will get you in the ball park. Fine tune from there. Remember that this adjustment only affects idle. Cheers, Stork

Gday, make sure that you have some clearance between the lever and the master cylinder pushrod before you do anything else. This is vital! The bike is relatively new, so I wouldnt think there is much else that could cause any issues for you. Cheers, Stork

Gday Bruce, dont throw those old plugs away -just clean them with some carb cleaner and they are good for re-use. Let us know how you get on. Cheers, Stork

Gday, that would be normal for a slow turn. Drag a little rear brake and use a touch of throttle to smooth it out. If there was a clutch problem it would slip. Cheers, Stork

Gday Bruce, you have carb problems. Throttle openings above about 1/4 are mainly controlled by the needle jet and needle. The slide cutaway will also have a major effect on initial opening - i.e. a flat spot on itiial acceleration. In my experience, you will never get a carb out of the box to work well, even when pre-jetted, especially if you have modified your bike to your own specs. All you can do is go through a rejetting procedure. You have a pretty hot plug in the bike now, which while masking symptoms, can have far-reaching consequenses (melted pistons....) My advice would be to start with a plug close to the original recommended range and then jet/repair to suit. With the B6 you mentioned that it was wet - definately oil fouled. Careful with being too easy when running in new engines - they need to be loaded to approx 3/4 load in the initial running ASAP to seat the rings. If the bike is rich this will stop the run in as well by bore-washing so you need to get that close before going further. As far as jetting goes, it is always a hit or miss procedure and there is a heap of information available on the net. The Mikuni guide is particularly good. It takes time, money and patience... Cheers, Stork

Gday, before doing anything else, tell us what the spark plug looks like when it is fouled - does it look "wet" or "dry"? Cheers, Stork

Generally it is your responsibility to chamfer ports and wash the barrell. At least it is in my part of the world. Is that aluminium on the bore wall? Also, it is unlikely the sleeve is oval as they fit them and then bore and hone to size, so any out of round from the sleeve is rectified. ( I hope that makes sense...) Stork

Gday, ifit revs up ok slowly, check your ignition coil secondary resistance -measure between the plug cap and the primary wire. Sometimes corrosion at the cap terminal can cause this issue, or a shot coil. Cheers, Stork

Gday, how well did you clean it before assembly? Did you chamfer the ports? Clean airfilter, inlet tract and crankcase? What was the piston/bore clearance set to? You will get some marks even after 10 minutes. Maybe a picture will help to see. Its highly unlikely that you can oval a bore in that short a time. On the point of the engine noise, keep in mind that the TY is air cooled and will make more noise than a water cooled engine as there are no water jackets around the internals to insulate the sound. You should hear my PE250! Cheers, Stork

Gday, Im not that sure now but I think the bracket on my old Techno was bolted "high" under the cover. It was a mess under the cover, but make sure the cables run free. After that, jam electrics etc wherever they fit best! My old girl was a good bike, you will enjoy yours as many others still do. Cheers, Stork

Gday - Is the ignition timing OK (not moved)? Air leak around the carb flange? Good compression? Air leak around the crank? Exhaust system clean? Cheers, Stork

Gday, Have a search through the garage here, you will most likely find pictures of all the Techno's to use to identify yours. They are pretty straight forward. It is possible that the top is interchangeable, but ID the bike first, then you can get parts lists to know for sure. Or contact one of the helpful Beta dealers in your area and they should be able to guide you. Cheers, Stork

Gday, look for the clutch fix pinned in the beta forum. Do that first. Cheers, Stork

Gday, see if you can find out why the plug was oily. I'd also look for the "cracking" noise. A look in the dark (with an assisstant) might help. If you fit points you need to reset timing. Cheers, Stork

Gday, what colour was the old plug? If fitting a new one got the thing running, there is another problem that needs to be rectified before you go fitting electronic ignition which may not fix it! Cheers, Stork

Gday, if you are competent mechanically, go for it. Its a pretty easy job. Cheers, Stork

Gday,550cc in the Rev 3. (just over half a litre) Check it in the sight glass as you fill anyway, when the bike is held level. Cheers, Stork

Gday, I reckon you will need to use a proper seal in a holder. Sealed bearings wont work too well as an oil seal. Use a speedy sleeve as a seal surface on the crank. Cheers, Stork

Gday, just give the carb a clean. Use screwdrivers that fit very well - if necessary grind them to suit. Blow out with air to finish. Use care and you should be OK. In future, never start it with the aircleaner out! Cheers, Stork

Gday, many needles are OEM - designed for the particular bike they are in. You can adjust the needle jet by opening it up with a number drill, this has the effect of richening the entire range of the needle (do this only after adjusting the needle itself). If the needle has no adjustment notches you can lift it by placing a flat washer under the head of the needle. I think they need a 3mm washer from memory. Before any of this - why do you want to change it? Is the bike lean? Flat spots? How does the plug look? Cheers, Stork