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What do you reckon it would be like just getting the Chunnel and driving down from Calais? Did you have a cabin on the ferry? Anyway, sounds like a bit of an adventure and I do love France, the food and the wine!

Yeah, I would add that I always look straight ahead at some point, and also have tyre pressures down. In fact, raising tyre pressures too quickly was my undoing. TBH, I haven't done much static balance practice for a while, I may get back to it in the coming weeks.

I know what you mean but train/tube is a bit of a pain, I guess greener than car though. I guess 'someone' would have to contact these people... https://www.x-trial.com/en/2play.html

Ha, ha, yeah! But seriously, maybe somewhere a little further towards the centre - how about the Ricoh Arena in Coventry? Enjoy Rennes!

Why no X-Trial round in the UK...? Is the Sheffield Indoor Trial seen as a proxy event...?

Unicycle - I'm impressed! Will it help you get on the back wheel and hop?

This is what I wrote in another thread. Not everyone will agree but it worked for me - you may find it helpful... With my bike a non-runner until recently, I could have been doing a whole lot more of this over the past few months but have only picked it up again since I got it working! Guess I just wanted to forget the whole business and hope it would go away when I couldn't get the bike running! Anyway, I've been putting in a bit of time here and there trying to static balance on the drive in front of the garage and, TBH, not really getting anywhere - if I could get both feet up and hold it for 2-3 seconds that was a result! So I decided my technique needed to change and for whatever reason tried the following... Get one foot on a peg, weighting the suspension with that leg and then having the other foot on tip-toe, just enough to hold balance. Make sure the bike is settled and then gently lift up the tip-toe foot slowly but don't attempt to put it on the peg. Move this leg about (just like the experts!) to hold your balance. I immediately found that I was going 5-10 seconds before losing balance. What slowly dawned on me was that with the leg with the foot on the peg, I was 'leaning' the bike into the inside of that calf and I could feel the bike much better and it was like I could push the bike against that inner calf and it all became easier to balance, still waving the other leg around to maintain it. What I notice now is that as I've continued practicing this, I'm tending to keep the lose leg closer to the bike too - in fact as I lift that up from the ground I also keep the inner calf against the bike and it helps with feel. Just come in from a session and had my most successful go yet, maybe 30-40 seconds or so, the limitation being my quads on the leg that is on the peg taking all my weight getting tired! I know my technique will have to develop further to get both feet on the pegs to make it sustainable, plus I'm putting way too much force through my shoulders and arms on the bars. But this has been a big break through for me and I'm sure is building memory paths in my brain that will allow me to develop further. Hope that helps someone who may have got stuck and not been able to progress.

Wild guess - sticking float valve...?

I'm a newbie to the world of the SSDT but have appreciated the web site no end over the last couple of years. Many thanks

At Tong, July 10-12. :):):)

But, more importantly, will there be a UK round next year? Or, are they waiting to see what happens with Brexit!!!???

No idea if this is the issue you've got, but sharing something that I experienced... I've got a 2011 and have had the carb off a couple of times but never touched the actual manifold rubber. I found I had an air leak around where the carb inserted into the manifold rubber. I re-assembled using silicone grease all around the rubber/carb joint and this fixed it.

Love some of the one-liners in this thread... those I ride with keep trying beer and liquor............. not sure how effective it is... We shall continue further testing. 2020 Vertigo colour scheme designers ought to be tested. What are they on !!!! ? Let's be honest the WTC is that boring he probably took it to keep awake.

I'm still struggling with proper double blips. What I've found is that I can get over small/moderate obstacles without the front wheel touching down. It's the usual timing issue where I get too anxious and do the second blip too soon. So, to try and break the whole thing down I started by putting a sequence of markers down on the ground in a flat area. I then practice coming towards them and single-blipping to get the front up, then waiting, waiting, waiting until the front touches down, hopefully on the marker, before applying a second blip. I've now started to try adding in the suspension bounce as the front touches down, before adding in the second blip, which I've found surprisingly challenging!

Except when they are 21"

I would have thought bogging down on a 320 was a safety feature to avoid landing in the tree tops...?

Ah, great news, glad to hear

Do just try changing the coil - much cheaper and worst is you end up with a spare coil. I went through the whole stator fix rigmarole and it ended up being the coil. And make sure you get a genuine Leonelli replacement as the cheapo ones on eBay are a bit variable.

rr62, I've tried a 4ride down at the Dave Thorpe Honda off-road experience in Exmoor. It's a great little bike and TBH, I wouldn't have been on anything else, but even so just felt it was a bit too much trials for riding open lanes and road work in between. A sixth, higher, gear would have been nice and just a little more suspension travel. AFAIK it really is just a Cota4RT with seat, lights and a slightly larger tank. Having said that, member of my local TRF has a 4ride for LDT and is always trying to persuade me to buy one! gasserguy, what year is your Freeride...? PS - What range do you get from the tank?

Having had rather a load of trouble with my Sherco last year, finally resolved over the winter, I'm rather hesitant to launch into another round of fiddling and fettling, especially as it would initially be replacing my uber-reliable Yamaha TTR250. The more I've read about them, the more I think it may just be too fragile an option. Many thanks for the replies.

This early 2T version had escaped me but recently came across it surfing around eBay. Wondered whether anyone had first hand experience of one tackling a section, or even hearsay from someone else that had tried...? Given I'm not a serious trials rider, and fitted with the right sort of tyres, wondered if it could tackle both green-laning and a bit of self-learning at my local trials centre...?

Sorry, I may have mis-explained about my use of the clutch. Yeah, I do use the clutch when I'm riding slooooooooow, like a lot of the time; when practicing slow turns and so on. It's the dropping/popping the clutch, like you would do on a road bike, to wheelie that is not necessary. I guess ( ? ) that it does become necessary eventually, when doing the BIG obstacles, like for a Zap, as I understand it. I'm so far away from that level that I don't even want to think about it!

Ha, ha, was going to post about double-blip myself (you may have heard of it, or will do in due course) ; I'm just soooooo tentative about the throttle I'm finding i'm not giving it enough on the second blip, so struggling to get over anything much more than a foot high! Yeah, that is my No. 1 issue; getting confidence with the throttle. I'm OK doing simple stuff and where I've found it best to learn is going up moderate short slopes; if you don't use enough throttle, failure is reasonably safe. You just have to keep adding a bit and a bit, taking it real steady. I'm an older newcomer to trials, so throwing myself at obstacles and beating myself up is not an option! The bottom line though, is that 1st gear is like having a stick of dynamite under your right wrist! So I'm often in 2nd to tame things a bit; just starting to use 1st a little more. If you want to pop the front wheel, never use the clutch, just leave that engaged and learn to use the suspension as an assist. As someone has said, it is about practice, practice, practice, I suppose in some ways it's like learning a musical instrument, timing, finger movements, coordination...

Got it over the line, so to speak! Started with the 'engage pivot bolt' approach first. Not sure I got this technique right TBH, as after getting the bolt threaded I got the hooked end under the tensioner arm and then was attempting to lever the straight end of the spring under the swing arm. I just couldn't get this done and the spring was starting to deform somewhat. So, I stopped that, unscrewed the pivot bolt, and then used the monster cable tie approach, with the spring pre-assembled and the bolt completely out, then slowly tighten the cable tie that's wrapped around the whole swing arm and tensioner assembly and just keep sighting through the pivot bush hole until it lines up with the threaded hole in the swing arm lug. Then hey-presto and I was home. Smear of grease on the pivot bush before assembly and some copper grease on the pivot bolt, then squirted some lithium grease over the whole thing at the end for good measure! Must remember to check that pivot bolt for tightness in future! ?

After the chain tensioner pivot bolt worked its way lose the other week, I'm just refitting and confronting the age old problem of getting the bolt located whilst compressing the spring! Aside from the specialist tool, for which I don't have the welding expertise, I've heard rumours of cable tie use, which I'm translating into wrap one around the whole swing arm and tensioner and tighten to 'lift' the bolt up towards the screw hole. And another thread talks of turning the spring 'upside down' to allow the bolt to be partially threaded before knocking the spring into position and hooking it under the arm. This latter method I think means put the spring on rotated through 180 degrees. Any other gems of engineering ingenuity out there, in case neither of these yield the desired result...? Thanks! ?