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Can anyone confirm that this item... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M-Part-CP2200-Megahorn-Super-loud-and-effective-electronic-horn-/162121169277?hash=item25bf2cb97d:g:J0EAAOSwOVpXdEK8 emits a constant tone (or tones) that do not change in pitch and are not modulated in anyway? Thanks

Yeah, having watched loads of trials training videos on YouTube, the missing piece is in-picture synch'd close-ups of throttle and clutch. You can often work out the throttle timing from the engine noise, although the slow-mo ones, which are good for body position, fudge the sound track so it's harder, unfortunately. Having said that, many, many thanks to all those out there who have taken the time to make and post these trials training vids up on to You Tube ? I don't want to sound ungrateful!

So, to hopefully close the sorry saga of my 2011 250, I dismantled the carb and discovered that it had a 250 float valve fitted, instead of the original 200 size. Both floats were in perfect condition. I notice that the Splatshop article for the 2011 model mentions upping it to 250, albeit on the 290/VHST carb. Anyway, I replaced with a new 200 size and it all seems to be working, no leaks. Note that it is very easy to get the throttle cable dislocated from it's seating on the top of the carb, when re-installing the slide mechanism, causing the throttle to be held partially open.

Ah, cheers for that - thought I read 6pm start somewhere else, but that must be doors open, Thanks

It would be helpful to know how long the actual 'show' lasts? Can anyone who's been before give some indication...? Many thanks

Just stumbled across this topic by chance but read the original first post and had almost exactly the same thing on my Sherco 2T. I also pulled the plug cap off the spark plug and the engine stopped shortly after that. I put my runaway down to an intermittent carb fault, where I'm seeing it flood. Reckoned it was excess build up of fuel in the crank somehow, self-igniting off the plug in some way or other. Anyway, subsequently I can't get any spark from the ignition system (all Leonelli) and spoke to Bradford Ignitions/Motoplat and he reckoned pulling the spark plug cap was a sure way to fry the CDI unit. But, it sounds like folks have done that and their CDI's have survived? Were they Leonelli? Maybe GasGas use Hydria and they are more robust? Thanks for reading

I've got a Yamaha TT250R from 2005 that's fine and has never had carb, fuel line, electrical or any other problems! And I've probably done more off road on it as well! Why are these bikes so crap!?

Is this component also meant to act as a vacuum fuel switch, in place of a mechanical fuel tap, via its internal one-way valves? I've had the carb leaking intermittently but now to the point where I've got the fuel line from the bottom of the tank pinched off (just by the filter). I had assumed this was a carb float valve issue but maybe the pump is involved as well or instead of...? thanks

Without going in to the all too painful details, it looks like I might have fried the CDI box. It appears that, new, these things are nigh on £400!!! I have seen one 2nd hand for £200, what a bargain! Does anyone know if there is any cheaper alternative available...? Thanks

I had been replying in the Beta forum about one bike for trail and trial but then heard about the X-ride at the weekend. Can I ask if anyone has entered an actual observed trial on one of these? Or at least, taken it through some sections at their local trials club...? Or maybe seen someone do that...? Thanks

First time ever at such an event and a great show - probably helped by the sunshine! How they got all the transporters and lorries up there for the paddock though... I have no idea! Whilst these people ride motorcycles not totally dissimilar to the one sitting in my garage, what they can do with them bears no relationship at all to what I do with mine!

Nice piccie!

Oh wow, was that section 15 when he launched straight into the side of that rock? Thought he'd crushed his front wheel with that one!

Great, thanks for the the replies

Couple of questions for anyone that's been before... Is there anywhere to get a cuppa within walking distance, or is it Thermos time? Roughly what sort of distance is it usually from the nearest section to the furthest one?

Didn't go as far as lapping-in the flywheel but did give it and the crankshaft taper an extra good clean with meths, and then upon re-assembly a sharp tap or five with a rubber mallet to make sure it was well seated. Have not had any problems since. I believe one issue is that the magnets mean the flywheel 'pulls' itself on as you start to line up the channel with the woodruff and one can think it's all done, but regardless it needs that extra good tap with the mallet to really bed it on to the taper. Cheers

I always have to free mine off after it has stood, and that's with 75W light oil in the gearbox. I understand that light sanding of the metal plates' surfaces with wet'n'dry is supposed to cure it, if you've got the clutch apart might be worth a go. I free mine off before each start by rocking backwards in 5th (killed ignition!) and then have to ensure I keep the clutch pulled in until after the engine is running. I've also heard of people keeping the clutch pulled in when stood using a cable tie or some such. Not done that myself

Once it's started, does it run OK? Are you able to set the idle speed OK and does it idle reliably once warm?

TBH, IMHO, speaking personally, I'm happy enough to fork out for a weekend ticket to see Bou, Ragga, Dabill and the rest. I reckon they're probably worth it. I've heard that some continental EU countries have slightly higher taxes than we have here - perhaps that has something to do with it...?

I've been having some ignition problems with my 2011 and tracked it down eventually to the ignition coil. Meanwhile I'd been down the stator route and so had removed and refitted that. Got the bike running but not that well and cut out completely on Map 2. Then when running on Map 1 noticed that the exhaust was getting very hot. Decided to re-check that I'd got the stator marks aligned correctly (maybe ignition timing advanced) and on removing the flywheel discovered to my horror that the woodruff key has sheared! What can cause that? Did I overtighten/under tighten the crank nut? It certainly didn't need as much leverage as I was expecting to undo - I don't think I quite managed to reach the full fat 100nm or torque when tightening. Now got to hunt down a new woodruff key - but reluctant to simply re-assemble until I've understood why this has happened!!!!????

Ha, ha, this post was just what I was thinking about myself, although for different reasons. I now have four bikes in my garage and what with tax, insurance, MOT, maintenance, the odd mechanical etc it's all getting to be a bit too much. Coupled to domestic pressure that I'm spending too much time and money on them all, I need to downsize. So I will be looking to combine my Yamaha trail bike and Sherco trial bike in to one off-roader on which I can do both. Given that I barely even qualify as a novice at trials, I'm not too worried about the impact on my performance! So I've been thinking about the Gas Gas Contact ES. Gearing was the main thing that I was considering as needing some adjustment to get the best of both worlds; fuel should be OK and I can take my Fuel Friend in a haversack as extra. Sounds like it's OK to up pressures on trials tyres for roads and longer trips, so that answers that one. I'm not fast on trails anyway and have no wish to keep up with enduro wannabes, so was interested to hear other people's experiences of using trials bikes on trail byways.

The electronics are all Leonelli. If you try their web-site there may be a typical wiring diagram for the stator/CDI and associated features.

I know exactly what you mean....

See my latest post! May be worth checking the ignition coil first as, if it's anything like my 2011 model, they are cheap off ebay/amazon. Email Splat shop and they may be able to help with some readings for checking the Stator; I thought mine had gone when it was probably OK, so you have to take a wide margin on the numbers. If all else fails, Bradford Ignitions (motoplat) can test the Stator for you but you will need a flywheel puller, not to mention some serious torque on the nut - I had to get someone to use an Impact Wrench to get mine off.

So, finally got my Sherco running again last night! It turned out that the ignition coil had failed, although when checking resistance with a multi-meter both primary and secondary windings looked OK (and still do). I can only assume that it was breaking down at high voltage. The weird thing was the way in which it failed; it had been running fine and was put away in the garage - got it out a few weeks later and it was dead. The coil had taken a knock to the outside edge of one of the mounting lugs during that last ride - maybe after it cooled down the insulation failed... very obscure! Got a new coil off Amazon for £7 and all sorted.