the addict

Check the pads first, see if they ve got much life left in them, if they are ok they might have got contaminated with something along with the disc itself. Give the pads a good clean with sand paper to get rid of the surface and clean the disc with brake cleaner and plenty of water. If none of the above work the system probably needs bleeding for some reason. Check there is sufficient brake fluid in the chamber/system and check for any leaks however small, re-bleeding should do the job.

If the bikes got a flywheel weight try taking it off it will pick up alot faster and be more responsive as well as reducing any engine run on once the throttle is closed. The fast action throttle makes a big difference usually a white throttle sleeve as appossed to a black one. Speeding up the suspension can also help especially at the rear shock, try faster rebound damping, allen screw at top of shock. I have dropped the forks through the yolks so the they are level with the top, standard seems to be about 10mm from top, this seems to make the bike more stable and easier to lift,pivot the front end and less tucking from the front end. I have also added some mods to the carb, Boyesen dual stage reeds, smaller pilot and main jets and run the bike on either 99 octane unleaded or 50/50 avgas/unleaded. If you can get hold of Raptor pegs and hangers over there they make a real improvement to how the bike feels, more balanced etc. May be worth playing about with the bar position as well, only do it little bits at a time though any change even slight can make a big difference to how the bike feels and grip levels. I have also dropped the gearing on the rev3, I now run a one tooth less front sprocket with standard rear sprocket which makes first gear very slow and responsive, its still high enough for most sections but it has also made 2nd gear much more usable. The standard second gear always seemed to high for most sections before, almost needed to change gear in sections and used to find I was using first nearly all the time instead of hooking 2nd as it seemed to high everywhere. 3rd and fourth gears are hill gears and pull from nothing now.Its worth making a note of the settings you have now so you can go back to them if any changes make the bike worse in some alterations. Good luck

Tone, pretty much any bike shop should have it who do off road stuff, think my last lot came from the local shop. Take the end cap off, pull out the baffle and clean it well making sure all the holes are free and clean (wire brush and degreaser is good) stick the baffle back in and start packing. I usually use a thin bit of wooden dowell to push it in with, make sure you get it even all the way aroung the pipe and stick some in the space of the end cap before it goes back on. It needs to be firm in the silencer but not too tight so it is restrictive. If you dont notice a change in engine note/or less noise its probably not tight enough.

Hi Cleg, hopefully someone here may have a manual you can have or a copy, heres a link with some info, might be worth giving them a call incase they have an old one kicking about. Sure though most of your questions can be answered on here if you post them. Good luck, its a great sport Techno 1997

Tone, just posted on the packing on the Boyesen topic, depends how much you ride really, I change mine about once every 4-6 weeks or so but I do get out on it quite alot

Tone, sounds like you have a bike like mine used to be. I have the following on the bike 27.5 pilot jet 145 main jet carb mod float extension bowl Boyesen reeds BPR5ES plug 70 mils TTS in 5 litres of V Force or 50/50 Avgas Quick action throttle (Is there another type?) Flywheel weight(In the local tip) Yes regular repacking does make a big difference, its easy to do and cheap and well worth it, used to use the sheet stuff but found the loose better, takes a couple of goes to get it right though. Needs to be packed well in but not mega tight, if too loose it wont make any difference. I also silicone all the joints on the header,mid box,muffler for a better seal. I notice mine occasionally running a bit different and it seems to be down to not cleaning the carb, runs ok but not perfect so the carb gets cleaned every ride out or nearly. The Boyesens and cleaning out the inlet tract have made the major difference to the bikes running, nothing else, give them a try. Motormerlin sell them on Ebay

Tone, about twenty mins start to finish mate. Get the carb off, unscrew the block, easier with ball type allen keys though with T handles. The clutch cable will be in the way of one of the bolts and the block wont come off easy with the cable in its place. I am pretty sure i took the whole fuel pipe off the tap and pushed the cable behind the tap to hold it away whilst the block came out. Once the block is out make sure the gasket is in good nick and clean the cheap ***** Beta seal it in with giving the inlet tract a good clean up as well. When you unscrew the existing reeds form the block make sure you have a perfect fit screwdriver for the job, they are very small and will round easily if you use a wrong size. Once off stick the Boyesens in as per their fitting directions, make sure the screws are tight and have loctite on the threads, one of those buggers comes undone and gets in the case its gonna be costly. Reassemble the block using a good gasket sealant and jobs done, mine did nt require any rejetting after fitting, bike just got 100 times better

First time out on the new Dishes sections today for me and Dad not as bad as they looked but still well hard and tricky to get a good clean. Dan Clarke (Legend on here) turned out on the Skoda for a play, not been riding much these days but made me and Dad look stupid from the off even though we took him to a couple of our mega tight favourites on the Banks Ben and Sam were out again on the bikes and liked the new sections, Joe tried to pull a sicky so he could come out but with no luck. Few pics of Ben and Sam on the link below along with Dan and Dad and a couple of high up shots of some of the new stuff to ride. Ralph was a no show again? you missed a good day again mate Caber arrived later and was splatting a pretty big boulder against one of the walls, actually got up it in the end without the kicker, **** knows how nice one mate. Hopefully get some video of Sam,Ben,Nick and Joe up there soon once I ve worked out how to edit the stuff and post it New Sections

Masso, nice one can you post a link or something for more info please. The 315 is coming out Sunday for a test against the 4rt so hopefully this might cure the problem and save selling it. Rod loves the bike up north in the streams and rocks, but is struggling in the tight turns down south with the stalling. Yes he probably needs to ride the clutch more and keep the revs up buts its not easy with some of the sections we like riding down here. Thanks Masso and everyone else for all the info

My lads birthday today and I just got him a PW50 as his first bike, great little starter bike, he had it nailed straightaway in the field this evening, my hearts just about calmed down now. Hope you can get it sorted out quick anth, loads of spares on ebay for them

Just realised! Ralph is attempting to play football tonight for Freeland over 18's (Stone that is) expect he might be abit worse for wear time he gets back but I have texted him to let you know

Lampkins or BVM, both next day delivery and should be stocked items, think they are about 12 quid each

Beleive me Nick it is worth it, I spoke to Ralph yesterday and he said he still takes the mid box out to refit it but not the header. Seems excessive but its near impossible to get it on without doing so or taking hours ( I know) If you have nt already done so the air box boot is larger air box side, swap it over so the air box side is now the carb side, makes things alittle easier. I have always removed the reed block spacer on my rev 3's to get more room getting the carb off and on, not tried it with an 07 though, might be worth trying. Ralphs biggest concern was the carb getting dirty and running ***** as posted on here from a few riders. This hasnt happened once since he bought it months ago. He doesnt really clean it that often either so putting it back on isnt a weekly job as with the Mikuni sometimes. You might need a larger jubillee clip for the boot as well? Ralph has, not 100% why though and I think the fuel pipe is just pushed on rather than having a securing clip like the Mikuni. Hopefully he will post tonight with any tips to make things easier, but once on you will wonder why Beta dont fit these as standard? they would sell more bikes I recon.

Nick, have you got the bugger on yet? do you have any hair left? are you knuckles a bit sore? are there any plasters left in the medi kit? did you give up after 3 hours and stick the leaky thing back on and said f*** it? Hope it went ok mate, ahhhhh how I laughed getting Ralphs Dellorto on mine last Xmas

Dabster, sounds like you have been trying to get one over the past weeks but with no luck? why the change from the Gasser?

Big thanks to Dave today for bringing up his digger and dumper and creating some great new sections at the dishes probably moved 140 odd tonnes of rock into position and made a little surrender section and a mega multi step section to name a couple. Cant wait to have a go at it all later this week, almost like Yorkshire in Oxford now New sections?

The Dellorto will make a mega difference in both smoothness,light feel in the throttle and no fuel p****** out the carb. It may take abit of setting up at first but well worth the effort. You will however loose some hair first few goes at trying to fit it to the airbox boot and the Beta fuel pipe will not fit easy to the carb. You will also see the metal throttle cable body is to high on the carb, Ralph has his like this but was thinking of getting it bent so the cable enters the tube at a better angle,no problem as it is but might be worth getting it lowered. I am pretty sure Ralph takes the mid box off and possibly the header to make the refitting much easier,sounds excessive but if it takes 2 hours by not taking the exhaust off you will soon wished you had. He may of found an easier way by now, sure he will post to let you know Good luck

Munch, hes using first most of the time, I think it may well be a tickover and riding technique problem now more then anything and we all call him Dad as a nick name, hes not me dad really. Hes going to have another go tomorrow and see how hard it is to stall with some changes, I have a feeling it is more to do with the type of sections me and him set out, up your own a*** type,back wheel hops to get round bends, flick turns, allowed to stop for minutes at a time? then we only ride non stop straight line trials up north in streams??????

Thanks for the replies and link, Dad is abit sore this morning but changing a few things on the bike today (Idle speed,restrictors,clutch master cyl and plates) See what happens tomorrow, project for next week is getting the 315 up and running again incase its no better

Brian, hes had the bike about 2 months from new, he had dropped the tickover alittle but turned it back up today. I have never seen him come off so much and so hard before, the stopping is so abrupt. I will have a look at the topic now thanks Andy

GW, aint they just the B*****ks I was only saying to Dad today how the bike has so much grunt,grip and nearly impossible to stall at really low revs. Not sure why yours is dropping revs downhill? I,ve got the float extension bowl on mine, might be abit of fuel starvation whilst pointing downhill but only guessing

Been out with Dad all day today, hes almost going back to the 2 stroke lately due to stalling problems on the bike. Two big get offs for him today due to the bike stalling just at the point of getting back on the throttle. Not sure if this problem is something a 4 stroke will do or just perculiar to his bike or riding style. First off up onto a big slab slopping down hill, gets up on it, blips the throttle to go down just at the point of throwing the body forward and it stalls, chucks him straight over the bars and down the slab. Second, tight turn onto a slopping rock with a 2 foot gap to another, biggish drop to the right. He bridges the gap blips to go and it stalls just at the wrong moment, chucks him off the wrong side(right) cartwheels down the drop with bike chasing him and to cap it all bike smacks him on the side of the head for good measure. A 2 stroke stalling is a pain but it tends not to stop like you ve hit a brick wall, the Mont is, best way to describe what happens is if you have ever gone up a really steep climb with a 180 degree tight turn on the hill, you make the turn about halfway, revs drop and bike stalls, f**ks you off straightaway. Anyone got any suggestions? its getting near sale time at the moment just because of this problem nothing else. It is knocking his confidence on pivot type turns over stuff incase it stalls on him, he'll have some big old bruises and aches tomorrow morning

Holy s**t thats 59 quid inc delivery here whats going on with the UK prices then? that would be at least $200 here

Nice one Chriss, the old ones are the best, not heard that for years, made me chuckle