feetupfun

Standard KT caps are vented. Standard KT forks also have very clever oil deflectors inside the top ends of the springs that stop oil going near the vent holes unless the bike is almost upside down. They also work fine without vent holes. I fitted TY250 caps to my KT (TY caps are not vented) because I like to tune the forks using oil volume.

guy53 and I did the TY250 Yamaha frame Majesty mods at about the same time a few years ago and yes it is better to ride (for me the benefits are more clearance under the motor and a softer rear end). On mine the footpegs were lowered back to the same height off the ground as standard (the footpeg mounts go up the same amount as the motor with the majesty mods), and it does not feel top-heavy to me in turns. Maybe if the footpeg mounts were not lowered the C of G might feel a bit high. Mine did seem to feel as if the wheelbase was a bit shorter than standard (it is actually the same wheelbase) in that it is slightly harder to manage the front end in some circumstances like when turning up hill. Because of this I would say that the majesty frame mods combined with a modest lengthening of the swingarm would probably be a good thing. I haven't done swingarm lengthening yet on that bike

Here is what I use to take that gear off

Does anyone have a photo of a bike with the standard OSSA frame converted to cantilever by Cheney?

Pretty sure the last model Alpina tank will fit ( M212/213) I have a 212 frame I could test my 198 tank on if no one knows for sure.

yes mine also has flat spots for the OSSA badges, but I trimmed the decals to fit right up against the OSSA badges so it is hard to see the flat spots

I've just put a proper MAR shifter on it the other day. The one in the photo is off some other OSSA. It fits OK but hits on things. The proper MAR one is curved up at the front - photo later I've taken a photo but am having problems getting it off my phone

It may help spread the loading to use strips of foam rubber along underneath the seat section where it bears against the frame tubes. I use the foam rubber strip that has self-adhesive along one side and is usually used for sealing doors to doorways. Also use the right thickness of packing under the tank section so that the seat part rests against the frame rails along the whole length

I used Giles' MAR MK2 decals on my fibreglass tank about 6 years ago. I knew they were made for the alloy tank, but just trimmed them carefully and I think they ended up looking very nice. Thanks for making them Giles.

could also say "rhymes with tosser"

both are right - it just depends where you live. Same with Beta, it is also pronounced a few different ways

The only thing I have found is that trials bikes with disc brakes sometimes overheat the fluid if the downhills go for a long time, or if I push too hard on the flat. Twinshock trials bikes in those sort of rides can be very good too, the bigger the motor the better so there is less gear changing

Great fun Shawn. That sort of riding on a trials bike is a blast

The TY175 kickstart lever is forged steel that has been electroplated. It can be welded with a plain steel welding rod or with a stainless steel welding rod. The hard bit in doing a weld repair on them is to end up with the hole being perfectly round and of the right diameter.

http://www.mikunioz.com/download.htm and click on VM tuning manual

Pat those photos in the link from Ourian are of my bike (I am David Lahey)

Pat I think they are my pegs you are asking about. They are modified Sammy Miller Products footpegs. The modification was to fit a self-retracting pin on the RH peg. If that is what you are wanting I can probably find the photos showing how to do it

HDPE is rated for continuous 110degrees C and 120 degrees for short periods. Hose fittings are readily available. It is called black poly here and is commonly used for irrigation and mains pressure water plumbing.

One of the weaknesses of the TY175 kickstart is that the stop is not very well fixed to the shaft. The usual problem this causes is that the kickstart shaft over-rotates when returning, which causes the head of the clamp screw on the kickstart lever spline to punch a hole in the casing. I've included a photo showing how that stop should look ie square and flush The other thought I had was that you have not shown what your cover looks like - I'm wondering if you are using one of the YZ125C/X covers which might have a different dimension to the inside of the steel bush for the kickstart shaft. The cover I've shown is a TY175 cover

Yes please post photos. I have one apart at home I can compare yours to

It looks like you have tightened the triple clamps up with the top one rotated a bit relative to the bottom one. Back off the clamps for the steering head axle and the clamps for the fork tubes and you should be able to move the fork bottoms so that the wheel axle is parallel to the top triple clamp. I suggest you clamp the bottom fork tube clamps first, then the steering axle clamp and top nut, then the top fork tube clamps in that sequence

That torque setting is only to stop them from unscrewing. The screws are intended to be bottomed out.

M49 is about 95kg without the lights

Those kickstarts may well fit in place, but will hit the footpeg. No problem if you don't mind lifting the peg up to start it. Your clutch case looks like it has been repaired previously Not all YZ/MX/IT 125/175 clutch covers will fit You can always take a scan of your clutch cover gasket and email it to whoever is wanting to sell you a cover to see if the shape is right, or get them to send you a scan of their cover gasket surface.

make sure you fix the kickstart stop before you try and start it again. They have a design weakness that allows the stop to rotate on the shaft, causing the clamp screw to puncture the casing