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Well done , insurance company's do this sharp practice all the time.
Dave
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Its always best to replace both friction and steels together thou you can usually get away with just friction but worn out already? I would check the hydraulics for air etc just in case
Dave
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I will check it out, i have bored the barrel and have 3 thou clearance with around 5 thou ring gap and the motor sounds sweet. I never knew they had so much compression !!!
Dave
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I use ATF (TQF) in engine on my ty250 ts , ty250 mono , clutch in my 348 and 247 cota,s and it works great
Dave
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You have to de-nicacil first, then bore and re-nicosil as you cannot bore plated liners as its too hard
Dave
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Hi,
anyone got a manual or know the ring gap and piston skirt to liner clearance as i have located an oversized piston (ebay) and its winging its way over to me. I have got the barrel mounted on my old van norman boring bar ready to go as soon as the piston gets here and i can give it a good measure up. The barrel was on its second bore and the piston was standard!!! and it had a fair old rattle to it, its amazing that someone would put an engine together like that.
Cheers Dave
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Thanks Helm, i thought that was the case as the barrel liner sits into the head but its best to be safe then sorry
Dave
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The exhaust is a bit of a bitch but it will go on with the head and barrel fitted because i did it on my malcolm Rathmell replica 348
Dave
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Hi,
do 247,s have a copper ring head gasket or just gasket cement as my one didn't have a head gasket but had two base gaskets
Dave
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If you are using synthetic oil then 50-1 and 33-1 on mineral just to be safe
Dave
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I think they were silver (ty175E) with white tank and red stripe thou i have seen red frame with the same tank
Dave
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Drain the oil and use tqf (atf) and pull off in first and clutch in and stamp the rear brake a few times until it dis-engages and run for an hour or so then drain the tqf and re-fill with clean tqf , problem solved
Dave
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I wouldn,t bother changing the frame to a mono or putting disc set up either as you will loose its value and character
Dave
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I would say all your probs sound carb related, unlike the montesa a ty doesn't have crank seal holders but you should be able to hook them out without a complete strip but you wont need to as your problems are carb related (hopefully !!!!)
Dave
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Thanks woody, i have already contacted him but no o/s pistons as of yet, it was a bult piston he has that looks like it may fit but i'm not sure on wrist pin size and pin height etc.
O/S doesn't matter as it can be re-bored to size
Dave
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Hi, does anyone know the differences between the two as i am after an o/s piston for a 247 montesa and as bultaco pistons are more common i was hoping they may be interchangeable without too much trouble,
Are the small end bearings the same size (piston pin same size ) and the same height. I can always more the ring pins if needed
Dave
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Sorry TQF is ATF transmission oil
Dave
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My frame no is a lot higher 51m 7997 and it has the welded gussets
Dave
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I use tqf in my 1976 ty250 and it works fine with no sticking clutch
Dave
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Its a Malcolm Rathmell rep model, just like my one , i will have to check out my frame number
Dave
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I bring the mag to firing point then loosen the points screw , tap them, then do up the screw and the heel should be just touching the cam.
Dave
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The basket is on a straight shaft so a tap should do it but you must let it twist away from the primary gear as they mesh together and re-fit the two together
Dave
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Just std spokes on a ty175 and i run my ty250 t/s on 33-1 as i like to see a bit of smoke to stop me worrying about a seize up!!!
Dave
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Its r/h thread, i just knock the weight off , flatten locking tab on clutch nut (r/h thread ) and be careful not to loose the three rollers. Now have fun with the primary sprocket.
The mag flywheel nut is l/h thread and remove the wheel with a puller. Both seals pry out but be careful as the housings are magnesium and very brittle
Dave
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That is an early one, the engine numbers on my 247 are on the top of the front engine mount in front of the cylinder
Dave
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