dave dix

I have just finished a complete re-build on a 247, get some good quality made bearings from SKF or another good quality company, cheap bearings are fine for a wheel where you can easily replace but for mains always use the best and they must be C3 bearings as they allow for heat expansion Dave

Good answer jon, i have always used ATF (auto transmission fluid) in my bikes for over 30 years without any problems and its good for clutches also Dave

Get a can of wd40 or other type of spray and start engine then spray around the carb connection and reed cover and this will find the leak unless its a blocked air jet or seal Dave

Just re-red your post and you dont cut the wire you add a wire on the connection so when you press the switch it earths out the wire Dave

You take a feed from the coil wire (from the points to coil) to the switch and when you press the switch it should ground out the wire (earth the wire) to the handlebars and kill the engine Dave

Could well be the pilot jet or crankseal leaking air or air leak around the manifold Dave

I smear with a bit of grease so if it has to be pulled apart again because something hasn't located correctly it wont stick. Dave

I use ep90 for gearbox and tqf for clutch , the only bike i know that uses 140 is moto-guzzie rear diff Dave

I second the pilot jet because if it was a crank seali doubt it would have started Dave

I have just bored my 247 cota to a tightish 3 thou ring gap and run it on 35/1 fully synth oil and did a trials comp on it after a 10 minute gentle run without any problems . If you use a good oil you will be fine Dave

possibly an air leak or blocked pilot jet and they dont have too much power to tame, Dave

Bultaco piston fitted fine Dave

I did get a bultaco o/s piston and bored the barrel to suit and it runs fine Dave

Go steady putting in the correct long reach plug as a carbon build up may cause the threads to pickup. Screw in and out half turns at a time unless you've got a 14mm plug tap Dave

Could i have the disguarded pirelli mt43's please, i have always used them in twinshock and finish them off on my DR350 on road and green laning, they grip fine for all terrain Dave

Hi, if the clutch arm sits in the clutch casing then you have to pull the clutch arm to wind the case off (whilst giving the case a sharp crack with a soft mallet) Dave

My 1976 ty250 (e) has no shim fitted and its a great runner Dave

The angled screw lifts the throttle slide for tickover and the horizontal screw is for mixture Dave

Try diesel or kerosene (paraffin) to flush out with then a drop of petrol / oil mix Dave

Pilot jet or, possibly, condenser breaking down Dave

The two numbers in front of the engine number will tell you the model eg 21m123456 is a 247cc engine. The cota 200 was a 173cc engine but i cant remember the model number Dave

tHOSE PIPES ARE OVERFLOW PIPES, CHECK THE FLOAT NEEDLE AND CLEAN OUT THE CARB Dave

I have often fouled the plug usually by too much oil in the mix so its quite possible to oil up by running on compression and with an oily air filter. Just take a spare along with you (as you did) and enjoy yourself. Later bikes had a better rear shock so you could get a newer one to replace it with Dave

mudguards do curve downwards on a twinshock but i will check out sammy's Dave

Hi, anyone know where i can get a wrap round type rear number plate for my montesa 247 as its road registered and i was thinking about getting it MOT'd Dave