copemech

Does sound like good fun. I was tired enough after unloading the Christmas stuff from the attic today. Went out for a ride round the back, bounced off a few things, pulled a couple of amazing floaters thet I could not do again if my life depended upon it! Hopped the rocks in the neighbors yard, did my mandatory turns and put it back in the shed! I need a fun day out!

I would rather go riding! Don't get near as messy!

To be honest, I am surprized that there are not more that do not want a pickle! I know Ham will take one, but!

Ummm, that is just WRONG! On too many levels! I think they said Az, which is way too close to Cali and where all the freaks are going to hopefuly insure they do not fall off the shelf!! Some went to OK! Just waiting for that AZ oceanfront property to cash out!

To be honest, I am a bit unsure about this, as my '07 came this way, yet cannot figure the logic behind it. At this point, best I can tell is it makes no difference unless for some reason with the tolerances,the stack height of the clutch pack was low due to wear or whatever. No exact specs but I seem to recall the clearance being fairly close on the top one, which is why I brought up this as a potential issue, yet mine was fine. As I reassembled mine, just put it back to a conventional state, all lined up. No prob! I should add I do not recall this positioning on prior bikes, but yet? And you notice no mention of it in the published blog you put up!!!! Go figure? Long as things work, I kinda leave them alone!

Charlie is "Da Man" at TTC, great fellow!

One does need a bit of perspective to fully appreciate Arlo, yet this is an old song that still applys, I happened accross. Bit of folk music that could be recognised anywhere.

And if you just cannot get a grip! Maybe you can relate to this, as there is indeed continuity and relativity! Peace, Love, Dove and all that other crap, from 1975! Go Ride, Mmmmmmmm! Making you snowbound fecks wish now! Ha!

I think that if I have been exposed to this for as long as I can recall, it is only fair to share it with, and endure with our brothers in the UK! Not the best quality, got to turn up the hearing aids! Oh well! Still has indeed become(mod)a tradition of sorts, and a tune to dwell in your brain forever! This is cultural exchange at it's finest! Here is Arlo!

As an addendum to isolating this stuff, the thoughts on the mechanical side with pushrods being too long and such. The slave cyl is basically self adjusting, yet could bottom out and retain pressure if pushrod was indeed too long. It consists of an inner seal and piston that moves, and an outer seal that keeps oil in and crud out of the motor! A quick test would be to back out the two retaining screws by one turn(1.25mm) or even half that, pump the MC back up to displace the distance, and see if things change when riding. The total piston travel on this thing is minimal, and the normal operational range is maybe a couple mm from full engagement to full release at best? Another thing I have found as a possibility is the last friction plate installed incorrectly, not in the proper groove, but in the odd recess cut into the basket. The only bike I seen like this came this way from factory, yet never had a real issue, yet clearances are tight enough that it could be. This situ could potentially snag up the works by putting the last plate in a bind.

This is indeed a normal occurance primarily due to the surface tension of the oil and the plates being pressed together while sitting. It can vary a bit due to the type and freshness of the oil. Easiest thing to do is to place the bike into gear 4 or 5, pull the lever in and rock the bike fore and aft a few times while sitting on it untill the plates break loose, then start the bike in neutral, let the bike run a bit to warm till choke off and normal running, pull in the lever again and give it a couple short revs, then proceed normally by placing into gear. This procedure also helps get some fuel vapor flowing (piston will travel) and actually help the motor start easier off cold. ALWAYS be careful where you are pointed when placing into gear, reguardless!!! Never trust them absolutly, as I have had them re stick! Some have reported using ty-wraps and such to pin back the lever to the bar while the bike is stored, yet I am not totally sure that is all that good for the hydroulics. Whatever works for you. Total solutions? I can state that mine has not stuck in over a year after doing the Dan Williams clutch mod(ala the Beta threads) which seem to use the same fibre plates best i can tell. All point being, I spent way too much time massaging these things by adding a small diagonal groove on each pad on both sides of each plate with a needle file. Requires a lot of beer and time!

This is true as Chewy states, and I have seen them with a lot of dirt unnder the outer boot where the pin on the lever goes into the M/C. Quick ck for a hydro system holding residual pressure(such as described) would be to ride the bike, make the symptom occur, then come back and crack the bleeder port on the clutch slave to see if it spits at you. Quick open and close so as not to induce air. Then restart without toutching the clutch, just simply push off and put into gear and run it up through without using the clutch to see if the same problem occurs. If it does, then the problem should not be related to the hydro side holding pressure, yet something in the mechanicals.

If I had to give tips to anyone on these motors, they would be: Scribe the shaft and nuts on the therr major components, Flywheel, Primary drive geer, and Clutch hub prior to disassembly. This makes it easy to bring them back up to original or ever so slightly beyond position and torque using a rattle gun for quick assembly. Without, one would need a flywheel holder and clutch holder to apply proper torque. Most critical being the clutch hub, which is less and will strip. Go back with the Viton main seals from Splatshop, as compared to the standard nitrile. Be sure you keep all your little washers in proper relation.

You are luckey I did not put your name in the pot along with Mitch, and a few others! He did ask for BS, you know!

Actually,there is a lot more to this issue as I percieve it. Let us start with a US rider being inelligable in the Euro Champ series, which is a minor series as compared to WTC, granted, but unless you reside there, you cannot apply for points. David Chaves was indeed a resident here. Not a visitor. As a WTC jr champ, his level of riding was on par and he was a good contender. Tommi, as an ex WTC champ, well , go figure. Should run non-comp. Fast Freddy, he was nothing but a cherry picker that tried to come over for a quick sweep to boost his ego. Whiney butt! Lucky he survived Texas after he and his minder running their mouth after a 5 in my(our) section. Go home ass hole! No respect for this guy anymore! p*** on him! You notice he is too good to compete today! At the same time, there are a number of good young riders that of course we would enjoy seeing over here. However, I still feel that THEY are not the ones that we are supporting, nor should be a US champ. I do think we should have an exchange program with the WTC Youth and or JR riders. It all gets very complicated with schedules, school, sponsorship and such.

Lots of possibilities here, and I recently had reports from a few that thated the pushrods in the motor were a bit too long, yet I do not fully understand the operational condition you describe. "Full Fist" can mean different things. Do you mean that you are already shifted into gear 4or5, clutch fully released then full power and it slips? Or, you are shifting on the fly with a quick pull and release of the lever and get a minor delay untill full engagement. Or do you mean you can shift up into 4or 5, give a full rev and pop to slam the clutch and the revs continue and the clutch will not catch the motor untill you back off the throttle, possibly then slipping again on reapply of power. As stated, residual pressure in the hydro side due to the lever not allowing the MC piston to return fully can be an issue. So can dirt under the MC boot at the lever not allowing a full piston return which holds residual pressure. If on a full throttle pop in the high gears you only get a minor slip before it hooks up, but does, then this could be normal with the oil as it can take a slight bit for the oil to squish out due to its viscosity. A thinner oil or a mix of the gear oil and ATF can quicken this, or dependant upon temps, just use ATF, but this also quickens the reaction in the lower gears and may reduce "feel". As having the motors gear oil up to decent operational temps can change the clutch reaction as well due to the oil flowing better as it warms up and thins out.

an here is one of my old favs, still done well by a bunch of old f-ticks out for a good time! Not a bad wake up and shower song! Back in the day, it mostly played while other things were going on!

Here you go!

Why? To distort the North American Championship, again? Non residents need not apply!

I think that would be KW or RCIII !! How quickly we forget the #3 and #4 riders! They keep more riders on tap than clean underwear or spare transmissions! The loss of one won't hurt!

All this thing with the steering radius on the bikes brings some good points. Seems to me the Sherco has always been short in this department, and may be still. Yet at the same time, I have found insurance in this, as there are situations with odd transitions in up and down turns when one can just pretty much slam it to the stops and still be relativly assured that it will not tuck under on you and pull the bars out your hands while in the process of spitting you on your head! I found early on that the Evo can bite in this manner. The Scorps which have always been tight in the turns, will do the same. I had one of them early on. Pro riders seldom ever turn, non issue! For us old gits, well? Turning tight can be nice, but if you are bad at stationary hopping, like me, there are other little tricks. A three inch floater or little unload on the rear can get you the same result. Biggist thing being actually leaning the bike, rather than sitting there turning tight whilst verticle on the bike!

One tip passed along to me from an old experienced rider, is to use one set, or even two of those sports cuchion insoles. Are you jellen? Love you long time, and it is a big deal if you are in them all day!!!!!!!

The torque spec on the swingarm shaft is 50Nm or roughly 37 lb/ft. Try as you like, but good luck achieving that with an 8mm bolt in ali!

Get your day going right! wake up with one on! Then do this! My link

I doubt he has missed this. I think it is just a separation in the original pressing of the part flange and has likely been left alone. Non issue. Think the stress are being concentrated in the lower area with push/pull on the steering head.