copemech

You are a real smart ass, worse than me! Don't be unfair to these kids, they work hard and have a good time at the game. ps- Poor Cody has no ass left, I thought I was walking up behind Chris Florin last time I seen him!

Ok then, flat with no bottom, which generally leads me to a lack of fuel still yet caused by a restriction in the low speed circuit(idle jet) yet not neccessarily in the jet itself. If you look at the carb, there are two tiny holes in the bore,one just behind the slide(engine side) as you look down through the slide hole. This is a transition circuit. The other is miniscule, and angles up toward the engine side as viewed through the engine side(idle circuit). Soo tiny anything even the smallest spec could block it! I would think these the culprits, and a backwards blow out with shop air and carby cleaner after removal of the slow jet and airscrew would be called for to try and dislodge anything in there. Once again a fine wire could help to some extent. though I would have to hunt for one to fit the small hole myself. Simple view of the size of these holes reinforces the need for inline filters if one does not have it installed. Even with a new carb, one would want to ck and verify the float height prior to install. It is critical.

Amazing just what kids will do for a box of that Tesco's beer!

Dan, say this three times real fast, Simple, Smage Sherco Sales sells Sherco's by the sea shore!

Ok , so it is a carb problem. So lets start over, now that it is not p****** fuel out the vent, What I get is it still seems to be running rich and blubbery? Not sure exactly what you have done with the floats levels as compared with the posted diagrams. As they should run about paralell or slightly above when held at a 45 deg angle.

OMG! What is happening in this world! Next thing you know, I might eventually find a Scorpa! Lightly used, of course!

My overgrown Chiwawa looks like this dawg, at about 1/2 scale, and he can jump on anything! Including the kitchen table! He gets into running and jumping fits in the house at times and burns a track around leaping around and defying anyone to catch him, which I cannot! Little *******!

Well good! Now mayby he can figure out how to re skin this grey back on the pages to a rich color.

One may shoose to run whatever one likes, yet the majority of us seem to run the highest octane pump gas one can find, with the best oils at 80:1 works fine. I personally think the bikes in that year range were more sensitive to octane requirements and lean mixtures. Any idea what jetting is in it?

Well, I think you kinda hit the nail on the head there. Just goes to show that Tim is not too far removed from what is going on. I have to admit I was waiting to see if he would put a rider in the Pro class. Well, that answers that! I suppose one could find Adrian Lewis setting up a Beta tent, as he is a dealer, or Ray Peters! There are a lot of high quality dealers about, so I doubt Dan should worry too much, nor Cody, about support. Finding enough FOOD for him would be another issue! The bikes seem up to the task.

I think this is funny!

Here ia a good example, yet still not sure if it will supply what you realy want. My linky here It is optional to the newer Onkyo recievers and displays on the TV.

That is just too cool!

Something did strike me! Wonder if he has the needle on top of the plastic thingie where the spring sets into the slide, rather than below it?

There are a number of aspects to this equasion it seems, yet it does seem to be proven time over that the 80:1 ratio of high quality synthetic seems sufficient in the trials environment. Lest one forget the effects of the deposits! Seems to me that excess oils in the exhaust do nothing but clog things, and seems to me the mineral oils seem to create a HARD burnt carbon that is something next to immovable! As by comparison, the synthetics seem to have more of a resistance to this type coking of the exhaust and seem to maintain a bit of flow under some heat and minimize restrictions of the baffling and such. The less you can run, of better quality, the better off you will be, not to mention the emissions! I feel fully capable of running 100:1 on good oil, have done it many times! The 80:1 is just the insurance.

So you want your TV to control your Ipod! Yes, you need help man! Personally, I have devloped a distaste for anything with an I in front of it! Having been recently forced into the market for a new TV, I spent weeks trying to figure all this new crap our in doing the research. Long story short, seems as still, my TV is nothing better than a big monitor the way I use it! Need a new reciever to take advantage of HD, and seems many of these even come with an Ipod interface unit, yet I have no idea just how they are controlled. I think the one I got may have it as an option, yet not for me. At work, our cars offer an Ipod/ I phone interface controlled by the radio. I have hooked several of these up, yet other than the initial hookup, and working verification, I cannot tell you just how they work, as the next step is out the door! Just how music is selected by the toutch screen radio selections and what options is beyond me, as I do not own one to play with. Maybe I will pay more attention at some point. Sorry, but to some extent, I have intentionally, de-teched my personal life! No 3D, No bluetooth to the TV, sorry, ain't going there, kiss my ass! Samsung LN46C630K, Onkyo TS-XR608 will do for now. Next step BlurRey!

I need to post that one up on the frige! In the kitch,--as a reminder!

Yet, see in this case, if the rod was the culprit, placing any amount of pressure against the springs would not offset it, as things are limited by the length of the rod and will not move further. You kinda get back into the worn plates, weak springs , bad oil thing here I would think. There is a fine balance here, as the removal of two springs(33% reduction of pressure) can and will cause slippage or very slow apply in the higher gears as I have tested. Which is why I have to run the thinner ATF using this -2 spring method for a light clutch. And still seems to work, yet not recommended for more more severe service. If I want rapid response in gear 4 or 5, a pop is more definate than a slip, as on the edge! Add, I just tolerate this because I have come to like the light clutch. All pref!

Hmmm, this is of interist! Yet first I have heard, yet totally plausable!

Well, if the float is set correctly and the needle is sealing, it should not(cannot) pee fuel out the vent(lower attachment to bowl) unless the tank is pressurizing or there is a casting flaw in the carb body leaking fuel into the bowl. That vent on the lower bowl, as well as the one on the side of the carb need to go to free air. Do not attach one to a manifold vacume source! I have seen this!

This does seem a bit unusual for the bike to slip in gears 4 and 5 with a full set of six springs fully engaged to the basket. There has been no history or reports of weak springs. Nor reports of long pushrods really, either! I think I might start by ckecking for gunk under the pushrod boot where it enters the master cyl to insure the piston can return fully and open the return pressure port and not apply residual pressure to the clutch. Another way to insure this would be to crack a line fitting at either master of slave and ck for a slight pressure release. Once all pressure released off the hydro side, a quick ride of the bike (using no clutch and a push off)through the gears should tell if it really slips under load.

I think they should have called it RingoMoto!!!!!!! It just sounds Bad Ass and kinda rolls off the toungue, like a pubic hair!

NO, it is best 5 of 7, even you could apply to the '40 class!(You are still 39.5 and holding are'nt you) You just gotta drive more days than you ride!

Do tell us if the new rings fix a piston slap issue! I cannot fathom this myself, yet some have reported such.

One lad on here suggested he used it to install handgrips on his bike! Now, this does sound a bit scarey at first, but I am not sure, as it does seem to dissipate quickly. For lack of anything else around, I used some tonight to put tires on a quad bike. Same type tough beads as a trials bike.