copemech

Another little thing that comes to mind. If the ignition is retarded too far, it leads to incomplete combustion and the the exhaust will overheat due to too much unburned fuel downsteram of the motor! Noticeable on a long hard run, maybe not so much off cold or putting around.

All this time I thought it was Ham that reported the male pregnancy after the abduction! It was in the papers!

As a minder over warranty in a different realm, I should remind All here that a basic warranty covers DEFECTS! and not DAMAGE! If one has a defective spoke, then it will break, not several! If they all broke on all the bikes, then that could be a quality issue that need to be addressed, yet with no such pattern, one is back to uasge and breakage. Just because you broke it does not mean it is warranty no more than if you ran it into a wall! Both in and out of warranty, there can be quality issued that may be handled upon a Goodwill basis, such as the Beta cases. They had issues and were trying to help out an do the right thing. To some point which must have some reasonable limits. And then again, sometimes a really grey area could go either way, even dependant upon your history and relationship. Even your attitude! Do you have any?

Depends upon what you intend to do with the bike! If you plan upon riding some actual trials practice and competitions, all weekend out riding, then having spares around does help. Much also depends upon who you are riding with as ewll. duplicates of stuff between buddies does not always help. If you attend a trials where there is a local dealer who rides, and keeps most spares in stock(which many do) Then putting your own in reserve is not needed. If you fall on a rock and break a kickstart lever, it can ruin a day out, yet I have only had one in about ten years, and do not keep a spare at $100 per. Brake and shift levers are a bit less. Bars about $50 ish as well. Levers are rel cheap, you can get short two finger levers, three finger levers(yours came with) or long 4 finger levers. The short ones are better protected by the bar ends(which you should install to protect the grips) and if you put a bit of teflon tape under the lever perch mounts so they can pivot under only hand pressure, the lever breakage issue is minimal. If you ride like an animal, you are going to tear up more than you will ever have on hand by flipping the bike and such. There IS a learning curve here, for ANY rider of other diciplines! Rear fenders cost money! Doubt anything here would be as much as a crotch rocket!

EBAY, the real man's way to build a flying machine! Tell me!

Next time you wake up on the floor with a sore bum, you can damn sure blame it on them! You are a bit too close man!

The factory recommend on the gear oil was 10-40, though the other works fine with not much difference, possibly a bit quicker clutch, but they will likely both stick off cold and setting. No big deal.

Seems you are having too much fun with this, wish I could attend!

Would agree with basics above. Ck fluids. Seems we have had issues of late re- the alcohol in the fuel deteriorating crank seals. If it is sucking in fluid from the gearbox side, they can actually form a vacume (or pressure) on the vent tube below the carb. Quick test might be to pull out the tube which runs down back of motor, clean the end and put to mouth to check for pressure changes. Sounds dumb, but works. Another method would be attatching clear hose an immersing in water to ck for suction or presure(bubbles). All point being, the pressures in the gearbox should not normally change much exept for temperature variations. Same with the cooling system.

We have a thing called 70% rule, !!!!! If you polish this turd, well?

My Sherco clutch has not stuck after setting for months on end now, but I took far too much time and put a diagonal groove / in each and every pad on every plate(along with the other polishing) with the needle file. About three small swipes on each, then move on. What a pain! Seems to work though.

What's wrong with that? I want her to curse me, with determination!

I do not disagree with the abuse issues, yet at the same time, it seems we have created our own quagmire of issues that are sometimes unclear, which can lead to emotional events. Poorly set markers that tip at a toutch, Imaginary lines not to exceed as there is no tape between? Rider may have dabbed and others caught it, but observer was blind to it! Go figure!

Those things never did well in the dirt! Just killer! Maybe he needs one of them Motard things! Looks like it may cost more to fix than it is worth! Seems you only get one shot on those things.

All these bikes look the same to me anymore, what is it? Only thing I can ID is a Pennicle sticker, Pennicle what? Is it a Suzy? A 750 or what? I nreally do not have a clue, as I am out of it! All look the same to me. I just take an occasional spin on the Fireblade of one of the lads at work. Does me for a while, just nuts! If we had these when I was young, doubt I would tell today. Killed off quick! Cafe racing was in, back then!

You probably have some of the fancy footpegs on the bike!

Obvious Ishy has an eye on things as well. I might add the suspension, steering and build quality seemed as good as anything out there. I hope it continues in tradition, as the motor is different but should be a wicked bike! Notice he did make mention of the power of the bike. God, I have become a specilist at de-tuning these things, could I please just have a 250!!!!!!!! No rocket science here!

Nice pic! I'd give'um one!

This is very true, and depends on what one is doing with the bike. I think it takes some Reverse Thinking here for big bike riders. My old '03 1.25 was just fun to ride, the newer ones do seem to have a bit more off the bottom, yet ultimatly there is only soo much one can get out of a 125 without narrowing the power range even more and sometimes I took it out just to see what it would do. Speed is not always the key, yet the ability to stay within the narrow power range without bogging the motor so it keeps pulling and does not fall off to a point to which it cannot recover under the load. The lower ggearing seems to act to widen the power range(not speed) and is why they (top lads) use it as compared to more easily falling out of the range with a change in speed. I used some creek banks at about 3 meters tall to test 2nd gear at WOT(stock gear), a rollup which goes near verticle and a bit of a rolloff at the top for insurance.. Even at full revs and WOT, the load would drag the motor down to the point it was questionable to get over the top. In first gear, it just kept revving and digging till you shut it off. If one were to ask Shercofrey what gears he runs in the sections, and even with his 48 on the rear, one might find that he seldome gets beyond second, cause it will still carry the ultimate load, not totally sure if third will, even on that gear, probably have to use care and speed! Even thouth the 125 does have flywheel inertia at revs, being lighter, it is quickly lost.

I guess Justin did not like the Tampons suggestion! Pity! I canot fathom why he dislikes the T&A! Perhaps they are soo overwhelmed by suedo profffessionilism that a suedo name is no longer called for? If that is the case, I pity them, yet still, ??? Based upon Justin alone, and a compromise, Goodwood Motorsports sounds professional and all that! Screw the dingies that can't hold a hammer! Oh well! I tried!

Shake that WD stick all you like, but it won't pull big stuff in third with that gear, nor second!

I think this may be the first time I have ever seen Darrell have a Rant! You Go Man! To me, the AHRMA have put me off from even getting an old bike(from my era) at all. Sorry, but I do not need or want to be associated with them based upon what I have heard. I was actually hoping they were done after last year. I know that some hardcores are still trying to help, but I wish they would just let it go, and go with ITSA or something, which seems to be more responsive to the riders. Time and energy better spent. No offense Ed. Wonder the turnout of official riders, and others?

These should be the bit older style Paioli forks as I recall, and the bottom bolts actually screw into the damping units which may have moved slightly if you took the weight off the springs. Might find a small tapered punch or summat to move them back slightly and center up the holes. Be gentile on the threads! Other than that, pull the tubes out and flip them so you can see the holes. I think quantity was 330ml of 5 wt per leg, yet memory fades. Possibly others might confirm.

Spec I heard was to lesson the weight by 1 lb. on the lathe. One could play at 1/2.

I think Neo will soon find third gear useless with a 10/44 set on the bike. Luckey if it will hold 2'nd on a hard climb, as if it drops out of the revs at all, will not regain. The 24 OKO might just be the hot setup on the 125, the friggin thing is still working on my 2.9, and I would find few who wanted more on top!