copemech

A 125 will pull you, and they are quite gentile. They are a bit more difficult to ride larger stuff with, as you really gotta work them in the revs and clutch to make power. Require better skills, buta good learner or putt about if you like! A 250 has much more torque off the bottom, and seldome requires high revs.

I admit I do find similarities here with others. Yes, the bike shops were a hang out, in a sense, and a point of exposure for most brands. We do indeed lack this now. There will be no trials display in a normal motorcycle show here, as it costs too much to even rent a spot! There could be someone that has been hired as an X-treme event (circus) on a (weird) bike that scares the crap out of everyone that watches the thing, but that is about it! How he hell one might even think about doing "THAT" as a new experience is daunting. I cannot do it myself!

That is just sick on soo many levels!

Wonder if Chewy has done much peg time on the 250 as yet? Figure it may take some adjustment for him, yet as I had commented on the '10 250 I had ridden earlier this year, I had a really good time on it, though short in duration. Made me want more!

Wonder if Chewy has done much peg time on the 250 as yet? Figure it may take some adjustment for him, yet as I had commented on the '10 250 I had ridden earlier this year, I had a really good time on it, though short in duration. Made me want more!

The fuel filler extension could be just the bit that Ham needs! May not keep him from dabbing, but it may keep him from falling off the bike! Now I admit that they are different, by intention and design, yet still , none of this really puts me off too much, as it is what it is. I have ridden some REALLY muddy events, and have had to rinse off conventional tanks as well prior to filling. With exception of few trials, most filling would be done at the camp or van, anyway. One would suppose that you might have a bit of water about to rinse off things, even totally unprotected as with conventional. Second thought would be, fuel stop on a long trial would also be a water stop, and same applies. And I have not even gone to a "protected" mode as yet! Duct tape mode: Shielded and protected from top. Well, if I pull the flap on this, should be pretty clear, even if something came in from below. Doubt there would be much anything that could not be addressed with a quick rinse, even from the backpack nozzle. Just thoughts, time will tell, yet the experienced riders will think ahead about such things. As far as fuel pumps go, they are widely used in many applications and tend to be reliable. Not sure there are any specs on these, yet one could easily run some flow specs to insure they are working properly.

Might feel up the first rider next time round. May just have a "relief" tube strapped to his right leg that dribbles along creating slick spots on the track!(like my dog) Seems many of these lads that have been doing it for any length of time have had their fair share of broken hips and crushed pelvis, with resultant urinary tract complications.

Looks like a pretty neat deal there from Nutterman! More extreme conditions may call for more velcro along the sides, or even Very extreme conditions might call for the use of the gorilla tape across the rear and along the sides, using the velcro as a secondary dirt catcher. The gorilla tape will go on and off many times. I could probably seal up a duck's behind with it!

As a tip, I have found that getting the rim tape fully seated under the top edge of the rim groove is a big deal, as they will and can pop out and be dislodged and will leak. Going round this edge with a small screwdriver or similar to insure the top edge is fully set under and seated is important, and you will likely find(narrow) the edge sealing defects by submerging it. Not to mention, punctures in the band due to heavy hand on the irons. The standard valve is key as well, yet leaks will be isolated to that area. I do not use a spacer the thickness of the band, Toss it so you can seal things off lightly with the nut on the stem! Good lube, and lots!

Hurts, don't it!

Had a front tire do that to me. Lost pressure and rolled under! And that was on a MX bike, yet unfortunatly I was on the blacktop when it happened. Had no skin left on the left sid of my belly after the highside.

It is nice to see Charlie around! I hope he is enjoying life on the Montanka! Hey Charlie, I gave up on high school physics, all they did was p*** me off with their stupid theories, but last time I checked, s--t still ran downhill.(first rule of plumbing) And you won't vent nothing with the bike sitting up all week with a puddle in the bottom of the cover. Try putting your little vent tube in a soda bottle and let it sit to find out. Warm it up if you like, but to make the water move, you realy need to boil it! Which is unlikely in the situation. All point being, letting it in or out the bottom is much simpler! Oh, while you are at it, drill a 2mm hole in that bottle and submerge it just to see how much water comes in normally, good luck!

Funny, it was just the other day I was wondering if Martin was getting out to ride any club events and such. I figure he probably has a wicked 315 stashed away to kill the SR class riders with!

Seems MB has confirmed a ride on the Gasser based upon his facebook statement! No room in the Beta camp?

Well, for what you did there, it looks good enough. Time will tell!

Well, try the thing for a bit with turning the fuel off and letting the bowl run down before shutting the bike off and parking it. It may help, as there is indeed an issue with the high aeromatics in the fuel evaporating just as with the 4T I mentioned. Good fresh sparkie set at .6mm as well. Running the standard plug BP5ES I always chunk(or save) them at the first signs of hard starting anyway. Cheap, and one needs spares. You can always use the leanover method as a secondary default just to tell, still yet it cannot be that warm there at the temps I seen, they may be tempramental, as once near 0 c, you better tip it, then put in 4thgear and rock it a bit just to get things circulating prior to kicking has been my experience. I would Not normally think the "rusty" thing on the ignition side would be it, as it seems to me they either work or not. My current '07 has been better than prior bikes about keeping out water, but I still try to use come caution when washing the thing under pressure. Add, I still ck it from time to time and spray things down with wd40. If yours is prone to let water in, then one is still well advised to dry it out by some means and not let the water get trapped in there causing corrosion.

Just remember that there is always this little thing on the left bar end called a clutch lever. It is kinda like a golden parachute! The friggin thing will not normally move if you pull on it just a bit! If you learn how to slip it, and pop it, well enough---- well ?

No, it is not. And to be honest, I have not found good applications for it. Requires moisture to set it off! Look it up on the wiki thing. Do not think it flexable like contact cement either. I seen they have a wood glue now, which may be good for the usage of that type, yet there are others that would be hard to beat.

Not sure any of these things really want to jump to life when it is cold, defining cold, I woould estimate below about 10 c. Your query made me pull up the Aberdeen weather, stated 5 c! There have always been a couple tricks.(presuming you have a stock dellorto carb on) Turn fuel on, turn bars to right and lay the bike all the way over till the left bar is at the ground for a few seconds(3-5)which will spill a bit of fuel into the carb to prime it. Not sure just how many in your area do enlarge the choke jet, yet may well help. Not totally sure about the thing that Tony mentioned about the fuel goung off in the bowl, yet it is not a bad suggestion, as I can tell you that is absolutly true on my 4T Yam dualsport after more than a week. Crap for fuel we get anyway! Possibly others in your area may share as well.

I admit it is sad, but anytime i have been riding the loop with any of these guys, that is about the only view I get! Ryan is the REAL nut!

Wonder if they have the "Gorilla Tape" in the UK? It is some really high quality stuff!

Just to hit once again on this float height thing, you see in the illustration from JL, he suggests parallel, whilst holding at the 45deg angle, yet gives no actual measure. I think the parallell would likely be the seam edge of the float as example, ant not the top edge of the hump in the bottom(top when inverted). I believe the actual measure to the top middle of the hump on the float should probably fall to within 20-21mm using a precision rule from the sealing base. Mind you, I am running an Oko(copy) on the Sherco, yet the same basic principles apply. Direct mounting angle of the carb may vary a bit with the beta, but you need to be in the ballpark here, as things go. I have a Kiehin here in front of me for quick ref!. As you have narrowed this down it seems, I am not quite sure what else to suggest? What was your pilot jet size?

Ron, you will need a big backpack to carry his spares--------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------!!!!!!! Those underwear take up a lot of room! One set per section add up quick!

All said, I am glad to see Alexz on the Sherco! I wish him well and hope he improves as time goes on. Some(MB) may whine about the bikes and such, but it all still comes down to the riders, as you gotta ride what you brung! Man up! Shut up and ride!

You are a real smart ass, worse than me! Don't be unfair to these kids, they work hard and have a good time at the game. ps- Poor Cody has no ass left, I thought I was walking up behind Chris Florin last time I seen him!