copemech

There is some virtue in that statement, as it seems there is seldome a time that one cannot throw a few bucks into a revamp of whatever, and keep-on trialin!

See if it dries out, check the connections and such, disconnect kill button/switch and earth on coil before jumping to conclusions.

I doubt that is a bad setting at all depending upon the bike, the reeds and the fuel. A quick look back at mine sitting on the shelf was very similar at a 38/115 set and 1.6 or so turns out on the fuel screw. As long as it does not get too lumpy on the transition circuit(1/16-1/8 throttle) you are fine. Mind, it seems that keeping the things as lean as possible on the slow jet and screw tend to smooth the progression of the throttle response. Many will run the 115-118 range on the main jet so the clean out better on top. As I care little about total top end performance, and seldome want or need to gothere, on a 2.9 in a section, even the 115 main could be a bit rich with the boyesens, yet all piont being, going down to the 24mm carby, the velocity is such that it sucks soo much on it's own, had to go down to 100 range on the main. I know it is totally minimal size carb in this application and such due to displacement, yet as far as control and progression throughout the normal range of riding, it does work. Normal rider(if Neo is normal) may still prefer a 26 OKO, but for overall rideability, I still do not recommend a 28 unless you are riding top class and big stuff!

Well, if you are indeed sure of your supply side fuel, tank venting and carb, I would indeed be looking toward the ignition side of things. Sparkie should be NGK BP5ES, at a gap of .020-.025 max, Non resistor plug. A weak coil, poor grounding, or poor connections to the plug cap could also cause this. Might also disconnect kill button. Put simply, the high engine load conditions also cause the highest load on the ignition system. The little magneto type thingie has no real excess ability to overcome excess resistance of any type. So if one happened to throw in a sparkie at a wide gap, the system will not support it.

If the friggin things are anythin like the '10 model I rode earlier in this year, I want one! Yet, I am in economic stagnation, and cannot afford an upgrade now. The long term tests of the '07 continue!

As stated, check the pumpshaft for heavy grooves on the seal riding area and replace the shaft if the grooves cannot be polished out with crocus cloth. Note that the seals oppose each other(hard side)in the case orientation, each sealing in it's own fluid and a gap between as the weep hole is located, which inhibits fluid transfer between the two. Set them correctly!

Agree with this, just have to stuff it into the reed side, tight but works. On the airbox side, there is one offered now as I understand from Sherco, fits the Caby model with the Kiehin. Call Ryan. For whatever reason, I am still running the OKO 24 on the 2.9, as compared to Neo with the OKO 26 on the 2.5(i believe), which has offered some challenges, yet I must state that even though my Dellorto was well tuned and really good, this one may be better, yet still sensitive on the day. It can get near electric motor smooth off the bottom, still has the(big bike) midrange hit and big torque(yet progressive) if one opens it up, and if there is really a loss of power of the 24 OKO v the 26 Dell, on the top end of things, I would be hard pressed to tell it! Bitch is still a bitch! I do not really want to go there! Unfortunatly for me,a 2.5 is just a smoother machine it seems, and I seem to still prefer them after my '05 bike. With the big bore motor, with (lots) of suction, I am down to the 38 pilot(from 45) for controllability, and about 1 turn out on the airscrew(sensitive), yet on the big end,and under load, I am down to a #100 main jet, as the thing just sucks the fuel up by itself when you open up the throttle, so the basic theory prevails as one may need to adjust main jet settings by as much as 10% for each 1mm change in bore size of the carb. Which explains why a 125 main may run fine on a 28mm carb. MC

Oke, two things to keepin mind on these things is fan/light circuits are both Regulated(to limit voltage) an Rectified( to make fan work, cause it only works with DC voltage). One can have AC voltage output from the magnetocoils, and a shorted regulator taking it back to earth, or a disfunctional rectifier which does not transform the voltage output(add the prior for a shorted diode) into something the fan needs to run(DC) yet lights work, as they do not care.. A check of the output coils with the motor running and things disconnected should reveal some good AC output normally.

Asked my friend today, he says food is great! Can get cold. Avoid the Tacos! There seems to be no Mexicans there.

Well, if you did that, the only thing left on the primary side would be the gear on the crank that drives the basket. Does it whine if you just load it in gear and slip the clutch, holding brake(loading the primary's, but gearbox not spinning).

I think the others have hit the high points here. I will only add that I seem to have had good luck over time by taking the time to remove each spoke nipple and packing it with silecone paste(DC111 compound). This level could be considered as excess, unless you plan on keeping the bike, can make a difference long term. Seems to work soo far! But it does require some time in the shed.

Well, you got your answers, fact is yourself might do as better on a 200 Beta, not that a 250 is bad. The 125's can be a bit revvy, but will bo anything you can probably do, and are near perfedt for a beginnining rider, as they don't bite you hard!

I think they were trying hard to ruin bikes! Darrell, may be on to that tune, he is OLD! too! I suspect he had to listen to his parents music as well! Probably still has the records!

Oh, yes, normally things will run ok in most bikes on the 92/93 octane E-10, which it has been stated to be roughly equal to the 98/99 available in the UK. All good if it is a fresh mix, yet the alcohol is hygroscopic and will absorb moisture up to it's saturation point. It just does not store well. The boys with fiberglass tanks have a bigger problem, it will eat them up and leave all the resin deposits in the motor! My old gas goes to the mower, never been a big deal till last weekend, and it did not want to run. What did I find in the bowl? Looked like little plastic beads, just like what was described by Sting! Fortunatly, on the mower, one bolt will do it, quick job. Octane is not Everything, fuels are blended to atomize best within certain ranges of operation. Octane is based on the fuel's resistance to pre-ignite under high compression and heat. The highest octane fuel may not burn well in a motor that is not designed to use it and can have incomplete combustion as it simply does not light off as well. Excess carbon deposits may(will)occur, and performance will not be enhanced. There were actually some minor dyno runs done that indicated that a trials bike motor ran better(more power) on pump gas than the high octane VP and such. This was done back wher we did not have a lot of E-10, and may vary now, as the average reports I have read on the E-10 in cars has yeilded a fuel economy loss of 3-5% and I would directly associate that with an equal loss of power with no other changes. I may even directlly associate this with the need I have found in the latter years of going to larger pilot jetting in my bikes in an effort to minimize or eliminate pinging . Over the last decade, I went from a 33 pilot jet to a 38 on the Sherco with the stock Dellorto(relate to many). It all makes some sense in a way, as the normal guide for running straight alcohol in a race car would be to double the jet size. So given a 10% ratio, a 5% increase in the normal jet. And from what I have seen, the same may apply to the euro fuel, as many seem to be recommending a 35-36 range now, as compared to the older spec of 32-33, or even a stock 30. The good news is it does seem that VP is offering a 100 octane fuel, if you source it. It does seem to me that some bikes, depending upon year, are just set so at to really need a bit more than the 93 octane here can provide, although at the same time, I do think the bike manufacturers have backed off a bit on their fuel requirements by adjusting compression ratios and such. The fuel engineers could probably tell you horror stories!

Well, it is late tonight and I cannot get into all things, yet suffice it to say that I am a bit p****d about the alcohol induced fuel and the grades. It basically sucks! Avgas(100LL) has some advantages it seems, both in octane and storage times, yet due to the fact it is really designed for good atomization at altitude(cooler temps) I have had issues running it in a trials bike, such as hot restarts, so a blend may be more advisable, yet does not negate the alcohol you may have blended it with, which leaves you with semi-sucky fuel! Yet maybe better than nothing! I will get back! later!

Come on Greg, it is just money! Ask Dave about drilling small zig-zag holes and stitching -up with about .025 safety wire. Cover with gorilla tape and you are set! For a bit!

Thought it was the other way round.

All this will depend upon the travel/ lever ratios and such. Cannot compare directly to a supermoto. I do recall Topfun offering a spring for the older models at one point, yet I think the dimentions have changed on the latter models. Hopefully they might tell which years theirs will fit.

I rather doubt that this is vibration related cracking, as the motor is bolted directly to those sections anyway. The pipes do run close to the frame, and it is possible to stack two exhaust gaskets in there to gain a bit of clearance if needed. Usually not needed unless ones pipe is tweaked a bit. I am back to the compression/ tension forces exerted on this section of the frame initiated by the lower section of the steering head which it supports. The metal is relatively thin and light, and the entire thing seems to be designed to allow flex and absorbtion while distributing the loads through the structure so it all moves together within it's limits of plasticity. The fact that the cracks seem to spread may be an indication of extreme compression, then normal relaxation so the metal cannot return. They obviously put the T weld in there to help spread the center load out a bit, maybe not quite far enough, or possibly should have continued this all accross the top section to the others to eliminate any central points of stress. The "TIS" or time in service of this bike and frame must also be taken into consideration. To be honest, Neo may well have spent 10 or more times the hours on the bike than me in the last few years.

God helpmus as Jessie has returned to kick ass! Good lesson for the other two! Surprized to hear Dustin over Jason, yet the lad does have the drive for it it seems, Good job Dustin, i really need to come up to see you and dad, maybe yet this year!

Fairly obvious it seems to me, and agree! Could not read a word on the website, aer they just all Homo' or what? What are they promoting? Nothing wrong with the position in itself if done correctly!

Front is usually a non-issue, seem fine. Well, that spring is for the TRP shock, and doubt it will fit the Olle. Buying a TRP shock or an Ohlins, you should have the option of springs, and this is a premium setup. To get a heavy spring for ethe standard Olle, one would need to probably source it through a MX suspention specialty shop in you area. Springs are built to spec(add 10%) and it is usually not too costly, other than downtime, for them to take yours and do the deal for $100 or so. I do not know where you are located. If you are in Spain, you may check with Paxau Racing to see if he has anything to help.

Well, the FTA is still active, some good riders from FL! I think I seen a few rocks lats time there, but may have been at Busch Gardens! Get you a bike and get on it! The new ones are just too cool!

It is rather amusing just how all that works, as someone does have to change the light bulb out, along with other things. Things are changing along these lines as well. We used to see the red beacons on top of towers, the flashing strobes were next. Current tech, well in aircraft the high intinsity LED's have been approved for many uses and seem to have a long span of about 50,000 hours. Add this is even becoming more cost efficient in home application as replacements for flourescents are now available. Back to heights! It is all relative, you know! To be honest, I am scared on the roof of the house! 1500 ft or 500 meters is not that far down the street! No big deal! Yet when put vertically? Puck Me! Even as a pilot, it has always seemed to me an odd effect, but one quickly looses perspective with altitude. Even at 1000 ft , things below seem to crawl! At 30,000 it is almost like there is no real foreward motion, even though one might be scooting along at 450 mph! All sensation is lost! Those towers ARE really high! There are some transition routs about our metro area that I have flown through the main tower areas and at or below the tops! One must be careful! There are many stabilizing wires that stretch a good way at 1000 ft! One WILL know it if there is a loss of pressure in the cabin at 30-40k ft, as the pilot will indeed push it down at a rate that is scarey (10,ooofpm) but you will still have a long ride down of 3-4 min. at that rate! Hope you find the oxygen mask! You could loose it in that time. All good fun!

All this is very interisting. Sad to see the new crack, Neo. That is a bitch, and my thoughts kinda vary on this in looking at it. Obviously, the old one was well bashed and multi repaired. I can only suspect that these stresses are incurred by bashes on the skidplate being transferred up through the structure? Are you a heavy bottom basher? Second thought being I would almost be inclined to let the crack on the later one go, just to see if anything else actually happened. It relieves the stresspoint and lets things move as needed. If nothing worstens, no big deal. A lot of precision forming of a doubler to spread load in that area, then a good tig job to put it in place would be the later option. Even this only spreads the loads, and can create other points of stress. Your welder friend may have an opinion on this. I would not go with the bolt-on at this point, myself. This can induce its own problems. In trying to take a look at mine, using mirror, it does seem to have the T weld and the later config. I am not a structual engineer, yet I almost wonder why they did not run the reinforcement bead all the way across for integrity. From the looks of the welds, seems it is all done quickly in production by Mig, I would guess. No precision welding here it seems.