copemech

It is funny really. I actually reviewed that briefly and said, --- p--s on it! Did not bother to check further(need beer). Olde English antonym- Oft! Yes, this is a real word and not neccessarily an abbreviation!

Caught me again! Ha!

If you REALLY want to learn to work a bike, get a 125, as they MAKE you work the bike on big stuff, and you may well be better off for it in the end. They will do almost anything you need if used correctly. If you are lazy, occasional rider, a 250 will pull you round in style!

Unfortunatly, it is not that easy, yet opposite. The alcohol in the fuel will absorb about 1/2 its own volume of water, so you end up wilth fuel with alcohol saturated in water! If the water absorbed the alcohol, we could just skim off the good fuel!

One thing comes to mind here re the prior post, for sloshing to work, one would need to remove all traces of oil(premix) to get a good bond I would think. Carefull prep = better results!

Not to disagree with nutterman, as the things are technically a better mixer, and tend to be smooth off the bottom, while yet Bigger power throughout the range would be my perception. The standard dellorto 26 phbl is not a bad brick of a carb, tends to be reliable, and I think I had one as well refined as could be, rivaled the Kiehin in smoothness off the bottom and progression, and without the bigger power(i do not need or want) in mid and top. Running the 38 pilot, i managed to get the fuel screw down into a controllable range at about 1.5-2 turns. This compares to most running leaner pilots and the screws out to 3-4 turns. Now this does put you in a tighter range of controllability, but you must manage it, not unlike the sensitivity of the ariscrew on a kiehin, the fuel screw can be even more sensitive based upon the temps and such. All this might be a bit mute, cause I run the boyesen reeds as well, which also seem smoother off the bottom, and on a regular bike, I may not go past 35-36 on the jet. Lean the idle as best you can. If it gets blubbry off idle at 1/16 throttle(transition circuit) under load,you gone too far, back off. All this fine tuning takes time and experimentation. The Boyeseen reeds are cheap, yet if you want a carb I have a good one. Let me no!

Great group in Tulsa area, ck out www.NEOTT.com

Ray Peters built a small enclosed one bike trailer aerodyne (stealth style)using a brief metal structure and a corrugated plastic sign material for the panels. Tied together by ty-wraps, weighed nothing. It works!

Get that stuff out before it wipes out the motor. Some have reported success by sloshing the tank with some stuff, Caswells i think is the name, yet even at the cost, race gas or AV gas is a safer bet, no more than is required for a trials bike.

Plenty of trials riders in OK! What part?

Hummmmm, well, unless you are really into Big splats, Big rocks and riding on a national expert level and need more top end power, probably not worth it. They are a bit fussy as well.

Ok then , I understand what the welder is stating, he is obviously a pro. There are a lot of tricks to the trade, and the welders can analize the engineering mistakes! I have studied this a bit, yet far from an expert, although I do have a good set of welders setting in the shop(gas through mig and tig) for general jobs.

Good to hear that! Did they get some dabs out of you? The guys aroun here can set some very trickey novise lines, safe, but can take a lot of points ! Practice practice!

Ham, will you please pull my finger!

Leaky seals does seem to be a more recent issue as relating to the alcohol in pumpgas taking its toll on them. Not a bad job, yet you must strip the mag and clutch sides to get them out, and would recommend it for a person with experience, takes a couple hours work as some things here are critical. Do you have a local dealer? If this does indeed turn out to be the case, I recommend using the Viton(resistant) seals available from Splatshop UK at this point in time, as they should hold up better over time. Otherwise, I fear doing it over in another three or so years if nothing with the fuel changes.

I think what you are referring to is normally called pinging(or pinking) yet can indeeed vary in intensity into a knock. In many ways, this is somewhat normal for Sherco's and some other bikes as well, as they are all a bit "on the edge" as far as tuning goes. To run pump gas(yes they will) it's gotta be the good stuff! 98 RON. Carby jetting and tuning also come into play, and this can get into quite a bit of experimentation and time consuming. In what you describe, you are at say mid throttle with fair to heavy load on motor pulling a hill, you are in the needle/ main jet operation range and you might try raising the needle(dropping the clip) a notch or even two just to ck results and changes. See where you get with fuel first. None of this is necessarily damaging on just a short period hillclimb. Another example would be my '07 bike, which would ping on a lighter load, example crusing down a road or trail in 4-5 gear at 30 or so mph and 1/8-1/4 throttle. I never lost the pinging till I went with the 38 pilot jet, as on a dellorto it is still in the game at that time, mind that is on US fuel,(crap)! Hope that helps,

Right on that,as the master cyl piston must return fully to open the return port for fluid(and let air escape). A fine margin here, which is why slight clearance is suggested in lever adjustment, as it cuts off early in the piston travel in the bore.

Probably, with a good push in about gear 4!

I hope to see some positive comments on thes bikes as they come out. Paul is welcome to comment. The bikes have always been good, well build and reliable and with a good suspention, this motor will set it off! A winner for many! A Scorps has never been cheap bike to purchase, yet good value in the bike in my eyes!

Neo, I have heard of this for years now, yet have never seen one. Do you have any pics? My EARLY '07 could eventually suffer this, yet I figured a bit of tig would do in the worst case. Absolute worst, put on a scab plate reinforcement! Beat to fit, paint to match!

I presume this bike is not "new" but new to you, being an '07? A couple of things here, firstly, if they are overfilled a bit, they will expell exces oil out the vent untill it subsides. Secondly, if this continues, this could indeed be another case of excess gear case pressures developed by leaky crankshaft seals(alcohol induced fuels). A quick ck would be to dip the vent hose end into a cuppa water after the bike is warm and leaking. If it produces air bubbles, seals are leaking. Not to panic, maybe a good time to do a drain and change of the oil to insert the proper quantity as a start, 450 ml after a good drain by leaning the bike over to the left to get all the old out?

I have my own thoughts on all this, which is why I have stayed out of this discussion to this point. I run a coarse pre-screen glued to the top cap to keep the big stuff out. (also helps deflect water) Helps with longivity(time between service) of the filter as well. I have several filters of different origin. The Jitsie is the best construction it seems. The real work of a filters maze is only a minor part, as it is the oil that actually sticks the small dust particles that errode the motor over time. We are talking microns here. One can use any oil, even motor oil, yet to me it is the HIGH TACK oils that grab and hold the particles more efficiently. Wether spray on or pour on, you need a good coating in the maze media to do the job. To do this, one must apply liberally, then squeeze out excess to get full coating on all working surfaces in the filter media. I have used the NO-TOIL product for years now, and am happy with it. It offers a high tack, will clean in the water based soap, or the stoddard solvents as well for that matter, and is available here readily under the Honda shop brand(as they have adopted it as well) at reasonable cost for the kit of soap and oil. There are some arisol filter sprays that are high tack, others are not! Test them once the carrier solvent has dried. They should actually string off with your finger almost like glue! Almost like catching bugs on a glue strip, on a smaller scale. The best filter is clean and well oiled!(with good oil) If any water passes through the filter media, it will take the dirt with it, even with high tack oil. This can lay up in bottom of airbox and have dire results. Always inspect for this. Specially after a wash. The dirt and dust is fine as talcum powder here in the dry times. Can take its toll on everything on the machine. Other areas can be more forgiving, specially when wet, yet when it really counts, it is cheap insurance to get the best filter action you can. And that's what I think about that!

A good rule of thumb on the Sherco is to rock the bars forward, place a straight allen wrench into the front bar clamp bolt, then bring the crossbar back to just toutch the allen wrench and cinch it down there. This will place the crossbar near verticle as you ride the bike. Another advantage is that you can easily find and repeat the same exact setting quickly and easily any time the bars are moved for any reason using the wrench as a guage. I cannot take credit for this tip, as it came directly from Ryan Young and is the same as he rides and instructs every student. Some advanced riders may move them further forward, yet not back. Other types of bikes may vary on the bolt positions and the tip may not work, yet the verticle positioning(or just past when just standing the bike) w/ riding is the same for most.

1. If you are over forty, and you have a washboard stomach, you are a queer. It means you haven't sucked back enough beer with the boys and have spent all your free time doing sit-ups, aerobics, and doing the Oprah diet... Fag. 2. If you have a cat, you are a homo. A cat is like a dog, but queer-- it grooms itself constantly but never scratches itself, has a delicate touch except when it uses its claws, and whines to be fed. And just think about how you call a dog... 'Killer, come here! I said get your ass over here, Killer!' Now think about how you call a cat... 'Kitty Kitty Belle, come to daddy, snookums!' Yep, you're queer. 3. If you suck on lollipops, Ring-Pops, baby pacifiers, or any such nonsense, rest assured, you are a Gaylord. A straight man only sucks on BBQ ribs , crab claws, raw oysters, lobster backs, pickled pig's feet, or tits. Anything else and you are a Homo in training and undeniably a fag. 5. If you drink anything other than regular coffee, you're as fairy as Tinkerbelle. A straight man will never be heard ordering a 'Decaf Soy Latte'. If you've put a Decaf Soy Latte to your lips, you've had a man there too. 6. If you know more than six names of non-standard colors or four different types of dessert other than ice cream and custard, you might as well be handing out free ass passes. A real man doesn't have memory space in his brain to remember all of that crap. If you can pick out chartreuse you're gay. Pumpkin is not a color. If you think so, you are a fruit, just like the damned pumpkin And if you can name ANY type of textile other than cotton or denim, you are a peter puffer. 7. If you drive with both hands on the wheel, forget it, you're dying to tune a meat whistle. A man only puts both hands on the wheel to honk at a slow-assed driver or to cut the prick off. The rest of the time he needs that hand to change the radio station, eat a hamburger, or hold his beer.