copemech

Oh God~ Ian is Slapmebum, and I gotta work!

Earth calling Billy! It is not Ian, Billy! It is Donald. In answer to your question though, and as another leftie, add having done them thumb things on quads and such, i still would not change. Not to say that there have not been bouts in the past with the slack hand getting weak on jumps and downhills and such, it just happens. Must adjust(mentally) if possible! As all a trade off! Right now in this heat, of about 105f today, everything goes quickly! About 30 min of riding in the back last weekend had my head dizzy and boots sloshing with sweat!

All I can tell is you can do a quick check on the bearings by removing the flywheel cover, rotate flywheel ( spark plug out) checking for smoothness of rotation, then by lifting up and down on the flyweight checking for excess play, then the same for in and out. As there is no absolute written limits (specs) on wear limits here. You must be your own judge, yet new bearings start off at .003-.004in. clearance. I would put a guess at 2.5 times that to be a reasonable limit. All made short, as long as the bearings are reasonably tight and quiet(not rough) although they may have some normal wear, just run them. The (my/our) common theory is indeed that the alcohol induced fuels are causing the stock black nitrile seals to go to hell. Splatshop sells some Viton replacements which should hold well enough over time, and even if you decide to replace main bearings later, the new seals would not need to be toutched unless damaged in the process.

This is rather entertaining! The popping out of gear part may be an issue! Wonder just how much metal will pour out the thing with the oil?

U are likely screwed on that! If is is seriously damaged, heating and bending will be the best bet, and if the main tube kinks in the process you can add a reinforcement or figure how to cut it out and re- manufacture the tubes! The good news is the airbox will comply with just about any mods with a heat gun!

If the bearings are not loose, noisey or otherwise, you can pop in new seals without splitting cases.!!!!!

They are hireing at the city Zoo!

I think he is from the North, although not Scottish, cause I can understand him in two takes! He rather resembles me in the shed at night! I am a mechanic! I have no sense! But there is one question that I have always pondered. If a Nations wealth is built upon it's natural resources and the productivity of the people, just how do folk on an island survive in a world economy? I find the old style Triumph's rather keen, yet I would not want one myself! Finding little need for Sheep products, I find the Israilies may indeed produce better firearms! Not that You can have one, you poor Feck!

You had hair then? Was it you on the left? Well, if you are indeed going to do up the clutch, just sit there a bit longer and put the diagonal cut into EACH of the little pads on the plates using the precision V file! Not too much, about three swipes on each pad will doo it! Smooth the grooves in the basket as well!

Well, it is certainly possible, yet a thoruough inspection of the basics should be done! Off with the airbox, inspect the lower inside portion closely for evidence of dirt water and mud laying in the bottom. Common cause is water and grit entering the carb after a wash(improperly done) of the bike. Washes the dirt right through the filter. On to the carby, spotless is the word. Inside and out, checking for evidence of grit on the slide. After cleaning and installing on the bike, lube slide, always do a quick ck for the sound of the slide hitting the stop screw as it shuts and note position looking through the bore. Add, there should be enough play in the cable adjuster(2-3mm) so that tension is not brought into the cable while turning the bars, and even cold weather can effect this! You can start and run the bike with airbox off, visually checking for full return of the slide, and/ or even throw something over the inlet to shut motor down if needed. A bit of carby cleaner around under the flywheel cover chould tell if the left crank seal leaks(sucks air) and blocking the case vent tube will seal off the right, creating a vacume on the tube!

Get it ready so you can Both have a laugh upon her return!

I really do not know if the Silver fronts are better than Blue, but my '07 looks fine still. The blue would discolor from rocks and such. Never had a white one?

I do think the slow throttle does have some disadvantage when you need a big handfull of throttle, and Now! Each rider is different, and has to set things to taste. Yes, you can take a bit more agressive position and grab more throttle. Your clutch applies the power, so you can cut it at any time!. A number of years ago, I took an ali throttle tube and modded the cable ramp so it started off as a slow throttle, yet still kicked in well when you needed it. There is a company that makes and sells these now, cannot recall the name, but they are sweet looking. FWIW, I have just come to runing the fast tube on a slower bike(timing back a bit), but mostly I got better at using the clutch over time so less of an issue. All said, I still like a 2.5, yet do not have one, just adjust.

You need to inspct things and see if the outer case is corroded or just cover. The new website for the importer is Americanbeta.com Call them, they will fix U up!

I could tell horror stories of what it takes for even a small operator to meet the requirements of the BS it takes to stay in business these days! Insurance, Liability, Lawsuits! Inspections by Waste, H&S, Fire, and Environmental! The consultants hired to help comply! Cannot even get into the regulatory limits imposed upon manufacturers! Safety and emissions to protect ourselves from ourselves! Billions spent! It is rather ironic that I may indeed spend a better part of my day just trying to fix cars, on a computer! Due to the delay of programming and engineers, I seldome find fixes in the available data. There may be a new flash - Tomorrow!

Factory riders do not have this problem, it seems! They just turn them to square ang get a new one! For he rest of us, only good thing about a fully plated rim is you gan always take the dremel to it later and buff the whole thing down to ali again, takes some work!

For the most part, I have usually found it better to run things if you can, get some heat in them and keep things circulating and lubed! As you are not talking about an eternity here, just months, I will tell you what I would do. 1- Go to local private airport and buy a gallon on AVGAS and mix it up with some good synthetic oil. This stuff runs well in cool climates and stores well over time. It is REAL gas without alcohol or too much crap that sours. Things do not dry out that way. 2- Start and run periodically, getting some heat in the motor, or get someone to ride it a bit! At least monthly! 3- Be sure your axle shafts, and even swingarm bolt, does not sit up and corrode, might pull them and lube them, as they can cause real headaches if they get stuck! 4 Tri-flow or Corrosion-X is good at treating stuff = treat little thingies! I think chains were toutched upon, not sure about coolant? Fresh mix with distilled water, or your premix stuff that you can get. Stuff settles and looses it's corrosion properties over time. FWIW, there you go! Hope you get along well!

The left fork contains the spring. You can turn the adjuster in(right ) to cam it up a bit and add some preload if a heavy rider, few do it seems, as they seem ok set back to standard. The right side contains the fluid dampner unit. It will screw in(right) about 30 clicks or so to increase damping. To be honest, I am not sure if it effects compression and rebound, but deff seems to effect rebound. I run mine all the way out, then add three clicks IN from the starting position for a fairly quick action. Same as with the shock. Anything else will be to personal taste and your weight, find your happy spot by trying adjustments if you like to play, but I have not toutched mine in years. Set it and forget it, seem fine. Hope that helps!

The long header has been around for a while, since '05 as I recall, and does indeed seem to bring out a bit more low end grunt out of the motor on most accounts. The 28mm VHST carby on the 2.9's has some real technical advantages over the standard PHBL. Hopefully they have these things worked out, as it is obvious enough that Sherco is ready and willing to run with them at this point. Should offer a good power apply and lots of top end! Similar to the 28 Kiehin which is still finiky! Yet for the average punter, I would still think a standard 250 the way to go. Ask for too much and your plate runneth over!

Yes, or a mix with diesel or oil based paint thinner, kerosene, stoddard solvent! Low flammability stuffs rather than petrol is preferred. I can use the bottom half of a plastic jug, throw the chain in, let soak then scrub it a bit, blow it dry or rinse as neccessary. Point being, these solvents do not evaporate easily and once the mash has settled, you can pour off the clean solvent into a tin for later use. Little waste here!

Of course if you rev them high, takes a bit to come back down due to the flyweight effect. If you barely rev them and the revs linger and float and such, likely a dirty carby or mix screw set too lean. Or other issues!

That's our Bill! Damn work it would be mustering wood for either of them ! Poor guy!

Sucks! And it it is 105F

Long header pipe! Needs blue rims!

Nice pics! You did'nt ride?