copemech

I have also explained this before. When I get a drunken wood, I actually prefre a Female singing to Me! I thought I told Ham about this, as one needs to get in toutch with the wifey by playing soft love songs and such(really all about ME) to crack the nickers and reduce the w***s! Kissy toutchy soft love songs and chick flicks do the job! (shed a tear) I can puke in the morning! I did put up the Good Metal! If you don't like the Dougie/Alexz tribute, you got no nuts to scratch!!!! I am sort of thinking the Zippy trib may have come from CANADA!

See other thread re-whine!

My generic impression of this would be to plug the ends and apply shop air to the pipe while quickly heating the area to cherry(plyable and working) heat, hoping things hold and do not blow out. All experimental, and potentially dangerous work with questionable results. May not remove the sharp edges of the bends.

Done this one before, yet it is still hard to beat! No comprende latin !

He's Back! See what you started!

It seems to me the symptoms on these deteriorating seals(due to alcohol induced fuel) may vary quite a bit! Unexplained floaty idles(does not eliminate other problems), hunting and surging off idle, and the blowing out of tranny fluid(gearbox oil) could be symptoms. As these seals must operate under rapidly changing events of both vacume and pressure generated by the 2T crankcase environment in which they operate, things may vary, and to add, there are two sides, one bathed in oil on the outside and the other, not! Vented purely by the crankcase vent tube, which could be blocked itself creating an unusual crankcase pressure(normally neutral). As this is more of an operational and dynamic condition that may vary with the engine temps and such, and the seals plyability, there are several variables which may be hard to pin down. The exterior testing by detecting a noticeable fluxuation in revs by spraying a light aeromatic(carby cleaner) in or under the flyweight may be an excellent indicator, yet on the other side, unusual changes in vac/pressure on the vent hose is another. Some mitht produce bubbles when immersed in water after warm. Tey, (careful withthis) others may suck water up the tube(use clear hose). I have not yet tested one using the short burst of the solvents up the vent to detect a change, yet as theory prevails at this point, it may well work as a detector! Unfortunatly, I suspect we shall see more and more of this as time goes on. I estimate the lifespan of the standard(black) nitrile seals in this environment to be about 3-4 years. I do hope the factorys(Sherco and others) pick up on this and possibly make the change to the Viton seals which should be more resistant to the pump gas, yet that is to be seen. In the big scheme of things, it is a minor issue, yet may cause major headaches in the fellows riding or fixing them. Add, it is not the factories fault we have s--t fuel!

You must hold the carb at a 45% angle so the needle just toutches the seat(and no spring action of needle) like this(\), then set level from base to top of float at 21-22mm.

In neutral once revved, you are still spinning up the main shaft. Placing in gear and clutch in isolates that section, main shaft stops turning. Now apply a load feeding in the clutch, yet brake held, so gears on both shafts cannot move. The only things spinning here are the clutch and primary gears. Main and output shaft are locked into the gear and not moving. Spinning components are still primary drive gears and main clutch bearing. If noise appears under load from clutch, these are suspect. If mainshaft must spin for noise to occur, the latter. Hope that makes sense!

That would be $8430 USD. Then add the added shipping cost to US! So for 9K one might get an Ossr here. This seems to rival Mont prices, think I will wait to see if they actually bring any in! Doubt it at that price! Not for me anyway.

Sounds as though the float level is too high, or you have trash in the needle valve. Get an inline filter for it!

If it does it revving in neutral with clutch out, the main shaft and bearings are still spinning up, yet there is not much load on the primary gears. If put into gear(clutch in) the noise stops, the main shaft is isolated by the clutch and not spinning or under load. If noise continues, it is in the primary gears or clutch hub bearing. The main shaft bearing should be tight, with little to no movement!

Based upon the brief description it is hard to tell. If it is running a bit lumpy, you might ck to see if you have broken an intake reed valve. Are you loosing oil from the gearbox side? Might drain it to see what quantity comes out. Ck for a vacume on the vent tube as well!

The fat ******* can barely find a rock to support him! I think his brother can kick his ass by now!

If it is a glass tank, you defineatly need to seal it cause the alcohol induced fuels nowadays will eat it up! There are a couple different favored sealers (sloshes) but you need to look up this topic and follow accordingly. I think I recall Caswells or something like that. Otherwise, keep the auto gas out of it and just get Avgas or race gas for now.

I suppose first question is are you sure it is abnormally loud? There is some normal whine from things here. If it sounds loke a Scorpa Yam or worse, there is a problem. I would start with a close reinspection of the bearings in and behind the clutch including the main shaft.

I run the Maxima in the modern bike at 80:1 with no probs!

I found a sweet little drum roll for Dougie and Alexz!

I was trying hard to find an intro for Zippy, yet this is the best I could do, he is such a paradoxical fliver!(tosser)

There is another SSDT rider that deserves his own intro in my mind, and that is Carlos Casas! He got some video, yet not enough to cover the the intro, yet here is your own little tribute song for you Carlos,

Baldilocks intro was also rejected by Bigfoot due to lack of video. I had the intro tune, yet it never happened! HEERWEARERide On Glenn!

I really wanted to use this as intro to Ishy's last SSDT round vidio! Fortunatly, I did not get enough footage!

The front brake offers about 70% of your stopping power in most situations. On a big downhill this is evem more critical as the rear is light and sensitive and the use of it only will quickly turn yourself into a screaming missile accelerating down the hill totally out of control! Once you even allow the acceleration to begin, you may be in trouble! Front brake control is the key to not letting this happen, and the rear must roll, not slide, to act as an effective rudder!

Ryan Youngs first one is still the best as most agree. Lots of good info there!

Ryan is always a Hoot! Get him out to do a school if you can. Get 10-15 riders for the weekend and you can do it! He is well versed in in both the Bernie and modern styles. As a warning, do not set him up with a tight uphill turn in the woods, he just pings the front off 3-4 trees and comes back to you! Nuts!

No it is not complete. I still need to work on bits here and there. THAT thing is a bit too goth, I was thinking a bit more toward the sharksteeth of a P-40 to go with it! Another must do! The engineering for the hardpointe on the wings to mount the paintball guns has been a bit challenging. It is all quite simple really, yet i seem to be having some difficulty with the local officials in gaining an airworthiness approval. I really wanted to start a new fad here and start selling these, yet I meet constant objection!