copemech

That is correct, in that the needle range should take effect at about1/8 range and may effect the smoothness of transition by dropping it. Yet on mine, I pisked up the pinging a bit too much again, so I settled for second groove, which seems ok. all a tradeoff it seems!

Did you put it up into about #3 gear and keep adding throttle? The one I rode was docile in the low revs, yey would yank the arms off if one kept it on, much like the 4t Sherco in my mind, Just kept pulling! Like oh crap! Very linear! All my impression, but I have slept since!

That is the standard single map for Sherco, virtually identicle to the one listed for Rev 3 except for direction of rotation. Seems the dual map versions of the stator vary little, as the switch input is just a ground path for the black box!

Easy tiger!

Ethanol or Methanol, it is ALL Alcohol(grain or wood based)! I cannot neccessarily blame the manufacturer of the bikes for what the *******s are lacing our fuel with at a current rate of up to 10% for standard fuels(not E-85/ at 85%) but standard fuel, what is called now E-10! Add the fact, your mix may vary! Best I can recall, nitrile seals have been used in many bikes for decades, yet this could be the end of that! Along with other problems that may yet develop from it, like in your car! How all this may effect your float needle, the floats themselves, other parts as the petcock are yet to be seen I am afraid.

I am not totally sure about your findings, and have never heard of this. There is, however, a practical theory in clutch technology called "microshear"! This theory is usually put into practice by someone who might "lug" a diesel motor. Thusly the powerful forces of each powerstroke of the motor can actually override the clutches clamping action causing much friction slippage and distress to the plates that will destroy them. Apply all that to a rubber damping unit that is capable of storing and releasing energy, along with a motor with some heavy flywheel action and run allthat through your computer model simulator with the frictional properties of your oil calculated in? Let us know the results!

Fu-- me! Right Here! TTO is in Tiawan, ok no problem, and a quick look on their compatability page reveals aan incompatability of NBR(nitrile) seals with WHAT? Fooking alcohol! I cannot even obtain fuel locally without WHAT, Fooking alcohol! Could find no specific referance to the composition of the given number, but this does raise even more question!!!!!

Here Jon, go figure! 016.D30.INGLES.pdf

Couple of notes, slowing of timing will slow the bike to a point. But my experiments on the Sherco tend to show that a timing reduction on the rotation of the stator plate of more than about 6mm, which roughly translates into as many degrees of angle, had little effect and could induce other poor running. In small changes of less than 2mm on the plate, there was little difference noted. Another note to Stork, on the Leonelli systems.(Sherco) It seems from the info on their website, they are running dual pickup trigger systems with 20-26 degree offset for angular calculation. I do not understand it all!

"Lastly I put that yellow pipe on the oil breather, then into the little plastic container filled with soapy water....My theory here was that if the right hand seal was leaking the air would make it's way out via the oil breather and been seen in bubbles." Oh I see now what you were getting at. But I think the pressure test you did may have been a bit too harsh. As in 2K8's test when rinning, apparently the bubbles did show. The thing about seals is the actual sealing thing can be very delicate. Small changes in vacume or pressure can reveal a problem, where too much pressure in either direction can just make the seal better at its job. Thoughts being, sinse yours seemed to be sucking oil through the clutch side seal. Had we run a test to see if the tube would drawn water pressure up the tube while running, it may have shown something, who knows . There is actually a very simple test stand that can be made using a water level to measure inches of water pressure or vacume, being much more sensitive than any measure of inches of murcury. But back to basics, seems you did also confirm the BLACK seals coming out of yours if i recall correctly. Did you get any referance numbers off them? And the BIG question at hand, are we seeing a possible premature seal leakage issue with the black, supposed Nitrile seals, used alongside the "sealed " main bearings? That is my question? Adam suggests the factory is sending the black seals out to date! As RYP would not tend to vary on the part number.

Wish i'd had thought of that little trick with the water while you were dicking about with yours, maybe a clear tube to the case vent to tell whether one is sucking or blowing would be the thing? Yet still in the case of Adam on the other thread, seems his was sucking from the other side! All yet, seems the black seals keep popping up, waiting for Jamie to find something here?

Oh, on the oil thing, the factory spec is 10-40, yet they do not say what! The motorcycle gear oils use a different spec rating, yet the 75wt is similar. I think Ryan sells the Maxima in an 80wt as well. All this gets into the grey area, as I have used 10-40 synthetic motor oil, the Maxima gear oil both. For a quicker clutch action, the thinner oils including ATF seem to work fine. Your pick! When running ATF, I use high quality synthetics such as the Royal Purple, Allison spec, or Mercedes spec.

I cannot tell you exactly this has seemed to change over the years, other than fuel. I used to run a 33/122 set in the '10 and '03 bikes with no prob. I might have changed to the 35 pilot in '03, cannot recall. All seems to vary a bit from carb to carb as well.

Yes, although I was into bikes, I have managed to spend a fair amount of time bent over the fenders of a few of these things. Found this great site via their rather excellent calendner, lots of great pics, and lots of great iron! First car I ever drove was the old mans 67 Dodge Charger 440 R/T ! Much of this is just too much for the Brits!Find them if you can!

Yea, well, wolla wolla tomba tamba yeeka!! You Too! It is a bit of an honor to become a bonofide Sherco WD, I think you deserve it! I will warn you, the pay is ****!

I figured him to keep his right hand pumped up on a regular basis!

I think the 115 should be ok with the stock reeds, basically. I have to run a leaner main using the Boyesen reeds, but that is another story. On the flywheel cover thing, seems you can never really trust them to seal! The '06 and up have a better cover, but still may not seal. Even worse, will trap water and cause corrosion. Therefore is is recomended to pop off the cover after a powerwash to dry things and maybe apply a bit of WD40 or something. I drilled 3/16 holes in the cover bottoms of my first 5 bikes to at least let things vent and dry, along with periodic cleaning and spraying! This is debatable ,yet common amongst many on other brands as well. I will tell you that on the air filter front, I have used a screen mesh on the retainer for many years which at the very least seems to keep the large crap out! I take a scrap of coarse fiberglass reinforced plastic screen material, cut to size, then clean and scuff the top of the filter retainer with #180 grit. Apply a thin coating of 3M black w/s adhesive #08008, apply the screen material, and recoat the exterior of the screen to bed it in and seal, then let dry. Has never failed! Acts as a water deflector too! But do not rely upon it, as the majority of water and dirt wash through the filter is self induced upon washing the bike, it should ALWAYS be removed and the box inspected. (prevented) Cheers,

I wish I could still bounce back, but it seems to take much longer to heal now! Not that it all still works that well to begin with!

It is just short of the North Pole i think! Google Smage Sherco Sales if Norm don't find this!

Do you still remember how to ride the friggin thing?

You friggin lot of whichdoctors need to throw some bones in whth the pieces of wood! One can argue this crap all day, but you can do it by hand, then get into wet/ dry thread theory and all that. Basically , if you have good standard reference, you can easily put it back, or just slightly beyond, with the impact tools and nothing else easily and quickly if you can use good judgment! Duh! Develop a feel for most of it If one has no referance point, then one must start from scratch or just use a bit of common sense in that it usually takes 1/4 to 1/2 turn to bring things up to torque, add for gaskets, washers and such, but when the thing wants to stop turning, that extra little bit of cinch should do it to normal limit! Get a grip! Doing a timing reset, I pounded my flywheel nut back on yesterday after multi removals from the original mark, using the brutal 1/2 in air gun, and it came in at just about 30 degrees past the original mark. As example. Took me about 10 min to reset it all and go. No holders or other crap! The others are no different, just use reasonable caution and they will zip on and off, Clutch hub being the most sensitive it seems. Do as you like, as I shall not claim any responsability for your screw-ups!

Ok Adam, glad it is good! Your posts have raised a number of questions and potential issues. Foremost, the reported leaky seals coming out of the bikes do indeed seem to be black, initially indicating they are indeed Nitrile and not Viton which is supposedly better material and may last longer. I am still not sure if there are any identifing numbers on these old seals that may be back referenced to verify? There have also been changes in the use of "sealed" as compared to conventional, main bearings that started in about '06 as I recall. To me, there are other things that come to mind as potential causes for premature seal deterioration, yet all theory. Did they seem loose in sealing on the shaft, as if they had taken a hard set? The other thing with the #35 pilot in your prior post, if you are having to run 4 turns out on the screw, that is just a bit too much in my mind and just out of the real op range of the screw. Pick up a 38 along the line and plug it in! This should hopefully bring you back to around 2.5 turn range on the screw and more in its working range. That little trick seemed to kill my off idle pinging problem as well on mine. The dellorto has a secondary transition passage that is effected kinda before you hit the needle it seems. Yes, as compared to most race bikes, it is all minor! Add well put into perspective, as you obviously have some experience with the other side! Thanks and Cheers, MC

Well, I am sorta on the other side ov the local world, in Rowlett! Get your thing running! Most of the NTTA trials are at Muenster, lots of good area there. Great events and vintage class invited! Just ride the easy lines and have some fun! There is a nice riding area out at Brigeport that many frequent on every Saturday! And you can go to the NTXtrials.com site to keep up with current events and such. email the admin to get on the mailing list o events and such. Then there is the southern OK group in Tishomingo, just a stones throw away! Great place to spend a weekend! Camp or motel.

Good stuff! Thankfully, I was born in a time that required skill sets!

If Addy gets his morning grub, that 200 will be nothing better than a teaser for him. And if not, it will still put him on hid head in predictable fashon!