copemech

Oh, I agree totally, it is not neccessary, just simple redundancy mostly ! And as the right side lateral vent is not in a preferred or accessable position in relation to the muff becomes an almost neccessary evil! Drilling of the left vent on the Kiehin is easily done, which then becomes primary and easily accessable, but not on the Oko! A lot of this comes from my experience of running in some REAL ****ty and muddy conditions at times, add my lasiness of not wanting to have to clean things after every ride. I just want to blast it off and go on, so I require **** deflectors! Seems the overflow tube sticking up into the bowl is indeed a secondary vent, but only if the tube is run down and allowed to p***. Running up and over as in many installs only traps fuel in it, negating any benifit. I just simply took pliars and twisted to yank it out the bowl, then plugged with 1/8 ball. And as things turned out, the lower half of it was reused in the verticle tube on the right, which extends through the hole in the lateral vent shutting it off. I almost cut it off completely, yet it stands protruding uselessly. I trimmed some of the other useless bits off, allowing use of the right front hose loop on the bowl. And in the left rear of the bowl, the actual power jet passage was pinned in the bowl section with a bit of steel pin to shut the passage. On the upper part(body) the steel ball was a bit loose, so I glued one in an apperance item only, passage blocked!

Yep, that is the tube nipple as removed from the power jet, installed as the secondary bowl vent! I have little need to ride a 2.9 at WOT just to find out what that little thing is good for! The top nipple for it was a bit mis set, and the top screw was holding the nip in as much as anything, so I just soldered it up stuck it back in, and let the top screw hold it!

The plot thickens! Need pics!

Good tip!

Adam, I know there is not a lot of roombetween the fuel inlet to carb and the muff, but what I do is sort of make a little loop in the line by running it over to the left side, curving it over by the clutch hose, then back to the petcock, allowing the natural force of the hose to keep it away from the muff. Hope that makes sense. If the bike seems to be running pretty much OK, I would not be overly concerned about the pilot jet, it just seems many of the bikes came set too lean and you have to run the mixture screw way far out at 3 or more turns to get them to run. The 36 seems about right for most, and some of this depends upon fuel. I can't even find fuel without alcohol anymore around here. I just would not be over-concerned about the vent hose spatter, I have noticed some on occasion, but it stops.

God how did you know that man? You are really getting eat up with it! New recco is the 26 OKO!

Sherco's ARE THE EASIEST to work on and maintain! Get off the race gas thing, be sure your pilot jet is about 36-38 range! Hell, race cars and airplanes will not even HOT start on that stuff! Be sure your fuel inlet line is not up against the muffler, preheating your fuel! Be sure your gearbox vent tube is run under the intake, then up over and between the fuel(banjo) inlet and the carb, then back down to skidplate. Be sure to lean the bike over to about 45 deg when changing oil so you get it all out. Makes less puddles on the skidplate too, and I can target a 2L pop bottle cut down! The gearbox will find it's own level. Cases like 2K8's bike are unique, it is a WTC riders 125, then on to him. It has been run hard! If you get the bike really muddy or dirty, it takes less than one minute at the carwash to remove 4 screws, pull rear fender and air filter, stick (closed cell) foam block in AF hole and plug muff! BLAST AWAY! Another few seconds and you can yank the tank and block fuel line, clean everything! Chances are, everything is fine! Don't freak out, just stick to the program! Simple really!

250 is

Try just running straight 93 pumpgas. No need for the race fuel.

The small bikes rev like crazy on choke off cold. Then they settle a bit as they warm up. You may have to play tickle with the choke till things get going!

I think the dual-vent, non-overflow, short-tube, non-exhaust interfereing, non-secondary jet, non sized thing is about ready for testing. The old intake rubber off the '05 still fits soo tight, it does not require a clamp!

Are you running AVGAS?

I think it has something to do with the ability to scrath your crotch whilst riding the bike in question. Seems this is a difficulty imposed by stop-and -hop trials, as they cannot remove the hand from the bars whilst stationary, yet the old rollers(non stop) seem to be able to grab a scrath at will. Personally, I still think a scrath with a foot down should be a certain 5 for the old bodgers, it is just Wrong on Soo Many levels! They have it at a high level of perfection, and some can do it with the end of the bars, never breaking stride! Even though this is how many of the old gits get even with their younger counterparts that can do stop and hop riding, they should be put under strict observation and penalised for such unsightly action in the sections!

You should stick with standard rattlecan or camo green !

Seems some of the enduro types are a bit off center! I have seen a bit of the real nasty stuff they done at the Redbull, Last Man Standing course here! I would not want to attempt on a trials bike, then the turn about and did the course backwards, AFTER DARK! Just nuts!

Does sort of separate them, Caby rides the Sherco like a lawn tractor! Fajardo just seems to be the mutt with the nutts! He is getting better all the time it seems.

Well , seems as though there are fair enough private teams in the loop already, another will not hurt! Van and kit will do! I doubt many travel in lux as it it is!! When you get to the WR thing, what are the Japs going to put up anyway?

At least it does not have major GREEN parts! Or Orange for that matter!

Just put the front wheel on the tree or wall at your angle! Still wonder if you can get a level piccie in the plastic bowl when normal! Some of this could exceed what I woould normally attempt! Looks as though the cable length thing will be totally off with the 24 and their little bent thingie on top, just by eye, have not tried it, yet I can use the top off the K to get a proper length i suppose, as my cable has already been altered to support both the D and K.

Ok, once again I will explain to you the EASY way! Firstly, you must use a dremel tool or something similar to scribe proper torque alignment lines into the clutch and crank shafts and nuts so that you have a reference before removal. Then you can zip them off usually with a proper 3/8 drive air(pistol) gun, do your job, then zip them back to the same position or just slightly beyond to obtain proper torque. Large 1/2 in drive guns are not recommended due to easy overdrive! Your flywheel side will still require a proper puller, yet the nut can be treated the same way. This side is not your current main objective, though. Specs on the clutch and crank are listed at 45 and 72 ft/lb as I recall, then you get into all that wet/ dry thread stuff. Basically you need to put them back to where they came if there were no issues! Still safe! Be gentile on it all!

Yea, easily enough done, I can pot one in for you and provide the proper connections and such for only $50 plus the post!

God man, give us a break! Even Tombo is a realist! You know it when you purchased the lightest comp machine made! It comes with a stated warranty against defects! You get what you get! Add, it is what it is! It's not like he does not use the thing. So it needs a minor(acceptable) weld repair. I would dearly love to see someone like you bitch enough till everyone got tired of hearing your lip, then just hand you a bare unpainted frame and tell you to hit the road, have a nice day! I am sure you would still complain as you would probably not know what to do with it! You would probably expect your gas money for the trip along with the letter of apology! I would write to the president of Spain if I were you! Here's your sign!

Well, I do appreciate that, as even I admit that my 2.9 may be smooth, the quickness is not there! I may be able to kick timing up a bit if the 24 works in limiting the mid and top "hit" ! The last 2.5 I rode was a '09, it was brisk in standard config. but still sweet! Not unlike yourself, I gotta work with what I got, still loved the '05 2.5 best! Even with the 28 it was not bad, just a bit too much at times, usually the wrong times!

In other words, it is normal, get over it or seek something else!

If I recall the specs I seen, the total trials market was maybe 20,000 bikes a year in good times! And with 5 Mfg units! I would estimat that number cut nearly in half today! Cut out Scorpa and Montesa, add Xispa! You got Beta with a new bike just in time, Gassers with one and Sherco (being steady) about to release! All these companies are diversified in their product now! Trials , enduro , motard, quads and such! Trials alone cannot support at these levels! Seems Xispa is running on their own certain economy of scale, which is somewhat bare, but at least they are able to operate! In a way, I think this somewhat commendable, as most of the parts are outsoursed from the same basic suppliers any as the others. And if they build a bike that is "friendly" to riders, they may indeed excell, as it is well proven that not everyone wants a Gasser Pro! The Scorps and Rev's have found their part along with the doggy 2T Monts, all good bikes! If one gets off all the high performance ****, it is the rider who wins! Usually on their well sorted and stable bit of lump!